When I put my 96 Explorer into 4WD, the light will light up on my dash. After about 10 minutes of driving, both the 4WD light and the 4WD LOW light will begin to blink simultaneously and then disappear for five minutes.

After that thime, they then will begin blinking together (6 blinks total) again, and then disappear.

The truck still feels engaged in 4WD, I just didn't know if this was a warning for something I may need to do (upkeep) or if my 4WD is fading.

Any experience with this? Thanks.

 

Yo dude!,check this site out:
http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html
thay have a buch on info on 4WD systems.

 

Blinking 4whi and 4wl indicates a problem either with 4x4 wiring to the the shift motor. I'm assuming this is a esof .
Also could be the the shift motor is out of adjustment or a bad switch
in the transfer case.

Rich





Ford Trucks Built Tough!
not with rocks
Watch out "X" Mayor of Truckville

 

Well I have the same problem and the dealer told me that the error was something like "Internal solenoid clutch pack error" and was not servicable (needs a new transfer case"

basically he told me the computer is having a problem disengaging the clutch in the transfer case.

someone else on this forum told me that the clutch should fail open not closed. i also took a look at the above link which indicates it might be a failed front driveshaft speed sensor. I'm going to look for it in a few days.

Other than that I have exactly the same symptons you descride, with one more. the vehicle won't shift into 4wd unless it is completely stopped.

Did you have any luck finding the problem

 

Cynthor!
There are 2 different borg warner transfer cases ,one that has a shift motor that drives a cam internal off the shaft of the motor.in which there are cam switches that indicate whether its in 4h or 4l.
it also has a electric clutch that gets its voltage 0-12v from pcm
the pcm gets its info from the hall effect sensors mounted front and rear of the transfercase.

I had one one time the shift motor was out of adjustment ,gave the exact symptoms stated above.

depending on how many miles on it ,and whether the fluids were changed regularly ,would determine its worth for rebuild.
This transfer case is pretty simple to rebuild .

it should not cost over $800 or your getting ripped off

Rich


The other one is a viscous drive type that is not the same.





,



Ford Trucks Built Tough!
not with rocks
Watch out "X" Mayor of Truckville

 

What was the resolution to the 6 blinks every two minutes

 

Bad shift motor!





Ford Trucks Built Tough!
not with rocks
Watch out "X" Mayor of Truckville

 

Yup, just started tracking the same problem with my 96 Ford Explorer XLT. Blinking lights 6 times exactly as described in this thread. I was told that it might happen if the 4WD is not used often.

 

I've learned a lot since then.

your problem is probably one of the following (in order of probability).

Bad HALL SENSOR (there are two. front and rear driveshaft. mounted on back of transfer case) 70% chance

bad or loose connector plug for transfer case electric wiring (right above transfer case 20% chance
Bad shift coil (inside of transfer case) 5% chance
bad GEM module (behind radio) 5% chance

read the following I have posted in the past regarding the 95 explorer. the 96 through 99 are very similiar excepting the 2wd mode was removed.

I'm Glad I could help.
I had a problem with my transfer case. the Ford dealer gave me a qoute on $1750 to replace the transfer case. I felt like the symptons didn't match the diagnosis so I was forced to learn how the 4wd system works on a 1995. the result was that I changed a $30 speed sensor and now my system works fine. (and I learned quite a bit about the 4wd control-trac system.
Here's the $5.00 tour of your 4wd system.
1. PCM
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is the main computer for your car and also controls the engine and Transmission. the PCM is mounted on the engine side of the firewall in front of the passenger air bag.It is not serviceable but is very easy to change ($300.00). It is notorious for going bad at about 100,000 Miles
2. transmission.
This transmission is all electronically controlled. It is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It is also known as a weak transmission looking for a reason to fail. I had mine fail on me and it cost $3,000 to rebuild
-GET a Small external tranny cooler and have it connected in series with the existing cooler so that the engine pumps the fluid through the original cooler first, then the auxilary cooler and then back to the transmission (PEP BOYS sell the cooler for $40.00 and will install it for you for a small fee)
-GET the fluid PUMPED OUT every 12,000 miles
-GET the fluid PUMPED OUT and have the filter changed every 24,000 miles.

3. GEM
The generic Control Module (GEM)is the secon computer in your car. It is mounted in the dashboard behind the radio. It controls the Inside Lights, Windows, Wipers AND TRANSFER CASE (believe it or not) among other things. It is about $250 an is also very easy to change. And is aslo notorious for going bad
4. BORG-WARNER 44-05 transfer case
The transfer case is electronically controlled by the Generic Control Module (GEM). It has a INTERNAL clutch that is controlled by a solenoid (Electric Clutch). it also has 3 speed sensors mounted to it (one is the main vehicle speed sensor and is not used by the vehicle in controlling the 4wd system) two of the speed sensors are very important for 4wd operation. They are called HALL sensors and one measures front driveshaft speed the other measures rear driveshaft speed. The transfer case also has a ELECTRIC SHIFT MOTOR the is used to preform a mechanical shift of the transfer case from it's high gear range to it's low gear range.
In 2wd mode the GEM DISENGAGES the Clutch and the front axle (through the VACUUM SHIFT MOTOR).
In 4wd-AUTO the GEM engages the front axle and SLIGHTLY engages the electric clutch in the transfer case to send power to the front driveshaft (but still allow for slip so that your drivetrain isn't stressed if you are turning). It also starts reading the HALL sensors. If the rear driveshaft is spinning much faster than the front the GEM increases power to the electric clutch until the driveshafts are going close to the same speed. (NOTE THAT THERE IS NO MECHANICAL SHIFT IN THE TRANSFER CASE WHEN YOU GO FROM 2WD to 4WD-AUTO)
In 4wd-low the ELECTRIC SHIFT MOTOR shift the transfer case into low gear range (2.88:1) and fully engages the ELECTRIC CLUTCH.
This is what I learned about the transfer case:
-CHANGE THE FLUID EVERY 24,000 Miles (it only takes 1.5 quarts of mercon transmission fluid. Make sure you take the fill plugh off before you take the drain plug off in case you can't get the drain plug off you still have fluid in the transfer case)
-If you have a problem with the 4wd high mode it is probable one of the HALL sensors going bad (the rear one took me 5 minutes to change. The fron one requires removing the ELECTRIC SHIFT MOTOR to access)
-Keep the car in 2WD mode unless you need the 4wd don't waste your electric clutch on dry pavement.
-don't shift into 4wd-auto if you are going above 30mph. I have heard of people damaging the front axle if the axle doesn't engage properly
-once a month, on wet roads drive for about a mile in 4wd-auto to lubricate your front axle fully.
- TEST YOUR 4WD-LOW SOMEWHERE NEAR YOUR HOME THE FIRST TIME (You wouldn't want to find out that the shift motor got stuck in low gear in the middle of the desert would you?)
5. REAR AXLE
Most of the rear axles in '95 were the limited slip type. They take 80w90 hypoid gear oil and require 2oz of a special ford additive for the limited slip axles.
CHANGE YOUR AXLE OIL EVERY 50,000 miles
CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE OIL EVERY YEAR
MAKE SURE THE BREATHER TUBE ON THE AXLE DOESN'T GET BRITTLE AND BREAK
6. FRONT AXLE-DANA 35IFS
they are not limites slip (if you get stuck only one front wheel will spin)
the axle is supposed to tak a synthetic gear oil, But even the dealers use the same oil as the back.
CHANGE YOUR AXLE OIL EVERY 50,000 miles
CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE OIL EVERY YEAR
MAKE SURE THE BREATHER TUBE ON THE AXLE DOESN'T GET BRITTLE AND BREAK
the control module you found the tubes disconnected from is called the ELECTRONIC VACUUM CONTROL VALVE. The reason two line are going to your vacuum shift motor on the axle is to because the axle has to be DRIVEN ENGAGED and DRIVEN DISENGAGED. If the designers had only one line to DRIVE IT ENGAGED the they wouldn't have any way to disengage the axle once it was engaged.
As far as why the lines were off, I think it is stupid to pull both lines off. If you want the front axle to stay disengaged the you should leave the disengage line plugged in. your lucky the axle didn't get stuck haflway engaged and halfway disengaged. Just watch it carefully for the fisrt few days
Finally, If you are in 2wd the front shaft will still spin slowly because the transmission fluid in the transfer case still cause some small amount of energy to get to the front driveshaft.

I learned all of this because I thought my local Ford dealer was trying to rip me off. AND I WAS RIGHT.
I'm glad I could help you out. Get all your fluids changed

Carl Thor

p.s. In addition to the above I have learned that the clutch coil in the transfer case works off of a pulse width modulated 33mhz dc pulse which is generated by the torque on demand (TOD) relay. I think the relay is right near the GEM module behind the radio. read the following post for more info "'96 transfer case clutch not engaging"

I replied to it to put it near the top for you

 

I had the same problem with 2WD/4WD light blinking. I removed the negative battery terminal for about ten minutes. The problem disappeared and has not happened again. This was about one year ago. Worth a try

 

OKAY I have a 97 control trac the first time it done this I check the fluid was a little low.
the last two time it is full so I reset the comp and its good for 3,000 to 6,000 miles then they start blinking again(and when they blink the 4x4 won't engage) I have a hard time beliving the t-case is bad maybe the sensors so where should I check these sensors at??? will a code reader tell you what is wrong when the're blinking??



FORDS always look better when pulling a CHEVY

 

What fluid did you check. the transmission or transfer case. the blinking light indicate a problem with the transfer case (or maybe the front axle)

I think you have a Borg Warner 4405 transfer case. Both sensors are mounter on the transfer case (on the side the rear driveshaft comes out of). the rear one is very easy to change. the front one requires removing the shift motor

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Dec-02 AT 11:15 AM (EST)]>What fluid did you check. the transmission or transfer case.
>the blinking light indicate a problem with the transfer case
>(or maybe the front axle)
>
>I think you have a Borg Warner 4405 transfer case. Both
>sensors are mounter on the transfer case (on the side the
>rear driveshaft comes out of). the rear one is very easy to
>change. the front one requires removing the shift motor



all four tranny front rear diff and t-case, and I've pulled out the sensor by the drive shaft is there any way of testingthese things we have a foot of snow here and it my only 4x4 right now my 93 is down for the count.

FORDS always look better when pulling a CHEVY

 

There are two sensors by the rear drive shaft. One is the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) it the one with the gear on the back. the other is the hall sensor. it is flush mounted (into a hole cut in the transfer case) with one screw and a o-ring to seal it.it is right underneath the rear driveshaft.

the hall sensors magnetic and have no moving parts. they are famous for picking up metal debris and malfunctioning. it might just need wiping off.

The hall sensor for the fron is mounted on the backside of the transfer case and you have to take the shift motor off to get at it.

I don't know how to check them

 

back to the top for these other guys hey can we make this topic sticky???

FORDS always look better when pulling a CHEVY