Exhaust routing question
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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Exhaust routing question
Hi,
I am new to this board.
I have been reading on this and the FE forums for a few weeks now.
I picked up a 70 3/4 ton with a 360 motor that spun the timing chain.
The truck is pretty clean other than a couple small dings.
I am rebuilding the upperend with new cam, heads, edelbrock manifold, 600 holley carb and headers.
Not quite sure what brand of headers I have. I got them in a deal with a pair of heads I bought.
I had originally planned on running 2 1/4 exhaust but it sounds like 2 1/2 works better with the FE motors.
Now for the question!
I have dual tanks and was wondering how everyone is routing the drivers side exhaust?
Run it outside the frame rails? or try to route it to the passenger side?
I was under the truck trying to figure out the best way to go and though I would ask here.
This truck has a C-6 not stick if that matters.
Thanks for the help.
Ken
I am new to this board.
I have been reading on this and the FE forums for a few weeks now.
I picked up a 70 3/4 ton with a 360 motor that spun the timing chain.
The truck is pretty clean other than a couple small dings.
I am rebuilding the upperend with new cam, heads, edelbrock manifold, 600 holley carb and headers.
Not quite sure what brand of headers I have. I got them in a deal with a pair of heads I bought.
I had originally planned on running 2 1/4 exhaust but it sounds like 2 1/2 works better with the FE motors.
Now for the question!
I have dual tanks and was wondering how everyone is routing the drivers side exhaust?
Run it outside the frame rails? or try to route it to the passenger side?
I was under the truck trying to figure out the best way to go and though I would ask here.
This truck has a C-6 not stick if that matters.
Thanks for the help.
Ken
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,115
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From: seattle us
I have mine routed to the pass. side, then both out behind the pass. rear tire. I don't really like it, but it was there when I bought it. You could do the same thing and split it to either side, or both out the back.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 29
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From: Washington
I have 2 1/2 Duals with the passenger side going strait back about 6" before the rear tire. The drivers side runs back and is routed in front of the tranny where it continues paralell to the pass. and then back to the pass. rear tire. With that extra fuel tank I wasn't able to do anything other than this but have been really happy with it. I'm using dual glasspacks for a muffler, sounds great. Check out my gallery for photos.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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Thanks for the responses.
I will run it to the passenger side and probably cut back over by the rear axle and run both pipes out the back.
I plan on running 3 chamber flows or something compatable.
Thanks, Ken
I will run it to the passenger side and probably cut back over by the rear axle and run both pipes out the back.
I plan on running 3 chamber flows or something compatable.
Thanks, Ken
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
It helps to eliminate exhaust pulses and even out left and right backpressures differences..and helps in scavenging... Hope this Helps...Russ
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 117
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Thanks guys, that helps. Local muffler place want an extra $50 for the crossover. I think I will go ahead and do it.
Josh
Josh
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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My exhaust runs parallel down the passenger side of my truck (to get by the transfer case and dual tank). I was thinking about putting a crossover in, but I am curious as to whether the crossover needs to attach into each side at the same distance from the manifold, or can I just connect where the drivers side comes over to meet the passenger side? Even if it did make a difference, would it be noticeable anyway? Thanks guys.
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 520
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From: california
One thing to consider when just rebuilding the top end is the existing condition of the bottom end. If your rings are a bit worn already, rebuilding the top end creates higher pressures that can create some blowby. Just FYI.
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Senior User
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Faithful,
Thanks for the concern.
I am replacing the top end mainly because when the chain went it bent 3 pushrods.
I pulled the heads to make sure the pistons and valves looked OK. They looked fine but now I would need to surface the heads before reinstalling them and I got the new ones for a little more than the surfacing cost.
Plus I snapped 5 exhaust manifold bolts and didn't want to worry about rushing to pull the remains out
The cylinders have a very slight ridge.
The motor looks very clean internally. No sludge at all.
The way things look, I don't think the motor has ever been opened up.
The odometer says 000.550 miles. I think the truck is at 100.550 miles.
I plan to build a 390 short block in the near future to replace the existing 360 block. so everything I am doing to the 360 should swap over.
My biggest concern righ now with the motor is that there is one freeze plug that has been replaced with a rubber one and I was thinking about just pulling the others on the sides of the block and and replacing them while everything is out of the way.
Thanks for the info.
Ken
Thanks for the concern.
I am replacing the top end mainly because when the chain went it bent 3 pushrods.
I pulled the heads to make sure the pistons and valves looked OK. They looked fine but now I would need to surface the heads before reinstalling them and I got the new ones for a little more than the surfacing cost.
Plus I snapped 5 exhaust manifold bolts and didn't want to worry about rushing to pull the remains out
The cylinders have a very slight ridge.
The motor looks very clean internally. No sludge at all.
The way things look, I don't think the motor has ever been opened up.
The odometer says 000.550 miles. I think the truck is at 100.550 miles.
I plan to build a 390 short block in the near future to replace the existing 360 block. so everything I am doing to the 360 should swap over.
My biggest concern righ now with the motor is that there is one freeze plug that has been replaced with a rubber one and I was thinking about just pulling the others on the sides of the block and and replacing them while everything is out of the way.
Thanks for the info.
Ken
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Originally Posted by 1972ford_f-100
hey ,wuts better,h-pipe(which i have now)or x-pipe?
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 40
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fomoko1 is on the right track full blown race applications will realize a difference in top end performance from the x pipe- the rest of us just need the h.
Where to place the h? I have always placed it symmetrically.
Where to place the h? I have always placed it symmetrically.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Ken, I just shot some quick pics of the duals on my '68 here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...1&albumid=4805
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...1&albumid=4805