Another simple mod
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
Another simple mod
Greetings all,
Just thought I'd share this since it was SO simple, SO cheap and well worth it.
Last two times out, I mangled my tie rod on rocks, stumps, etc... to the point that my wheels were towed in a few inches. Someone suggested flipping the tie rod to the top of the knuckle, but with the tapered holes required for the ball joints, I thought it would be too tough.
With the help of the Garage & Workshop forum, I found a Tapered Reamer on ebay for $30 that matched the pitch of the holes I needed. It came in the mail last night and took all of 30 minutes to ream the 3 holes and flip the rod to the top. It raised it a good 4"-5", and it now sits above the axle.
It's a little lower than a High Steer system, but for $30 vs. a few hundred, it's well worth it.
Just thought I'd share.
Kevin K.
Just thought I'd share this since it was SO simple, SO cheap and well worth it.
Last two times out, I mangled my tie rod on rocks, stumps, etc... to the point that my wheels were towed in a few inches. Someone suggested flipping the tie rod to the top of the knuckle, but with the tapered holes required for the ball joints, I thought it would be too tough.
With the help of the Garage & Workshop forum, I found a Tapered Reamer on ebay for $30 that matched the pitch of the holes I needed. It came in the mail last night and took all of 30 minutes to ream the 3 holes and flip the rod to the top. It raised it a good 4"-5", and it now sits above the axle.
It's a little lower than a High Steer system, but for $30 vs. a few hundred, it's well worth it.
Just thought I'd share.
Kevin K.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
That's cool as hell! Hey Kevin, do you have a link for one of the ebay auction you bought that from? I'd like to check it out. Other than reaming the new tapers does everything just bolt right up?
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
Yup, bolts right up. You have to remove the two tie rod-to-knuckle nuts and the the drag link-to-tie rod nut. Then ream the knuckles and the drag link, flip it over and bolt 'er back together.
It says you can use a handle (like for a tap & die set) or a drill press for the reamer. I used a 1/2" drill, but it's not as smoothe as a press would be.
I'm also thinking about filling the bottom of the hole since it's now hour-glass shaped, but we'll see what happend when I take it off road.
If you promise to return it, you can use the one I got. I can't imagine what the heck I'd ever use it for again.
Kevin K.
It says you can use a handle (like for a tap & die set) or a drill press for the reamer. I used a 1/2" drill, but it's not as smoothe as a press would be.
I'm also thinking about filling the bottom of the hole since it's now hour-glass shaped, but we'll see what happend when I take it off road.
If you promise to return it, you can use the one I got. I can't imagine what the heck I'd ever use it for again.
Kevin K.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Oregon
I've thought about this myself. Although when my current tre's wear out I think I'll just hog it out, flip, and use heims. I always preach for tre's in steering parts but in this application the force is all lateral and would be comparitively easy on a heim. Last time I replaced those I paid over $100 just for the pair of one ton tre's. I can get some bling blin QA-1 heims for less than that.
Good mod & report, Kevin
Good mod & report, Kevin
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by kjkozak2
Thanks Pro.
I just hope the hour-glass shaped holes don't allow the tre's to wobble themselves loose.
K.
I just hope the hour-glass shaped holes don't allow the tre's to wobble themselves loose.
K.
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Post Fiend
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From: Oregon
Yea, good thinking Bremen. Worst case scenario if you have problems is that you just hog it out and use a tapered sleeve. Poly performance would have them.
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Posting Guru
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
I tried that first. I just couldn't find anyone that makes a sleeve for the D44. I'm gonna make a washer to fill the gap at the bottom and that should do it.
I'll post some pix tomorrow of the flip if I remember.
K.
I'll post some pix tomorrow of the flip if I remember.
K.
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
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I too have done this mod- on my 82 bronco with TTB - mainly to bring tie rod angles into a tolerable angle. I had concerns too with no support for small side of taper- been three months wiyh some hard wheeling and all is OK so far.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Well crap. I looked at my truck today and it suddenly occured to me this would be impossible on a leaf spring suspension. I also had my doubts as to hy-steer on a leaf spring front end but I'm not sure, the arms may clear. In any event this won't work for my truck unless I use 4" blocks up front. 
Still appreciate the tip, would be kick *** on a Bronco or F-150.
Still appreciate the tip, would be kick *** on a Bronco or F-150.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
Oh, I don't know that you'd need 4". I've eyeballed mine before and it looks like I could flip it and it would clear. 'Course, my springs sit off the pad 1" due to my front anti-wrap bar...but its close enough that if I didn't have that it wouldn't work. Ivan, rather than flipping you can just put on 44's and gain your rod clearance that way 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
I've got the sad sagging F-250 springs in the front so there's no way in hell this will work for me right now, but maybe when I lift it. Hey Pro, did you buy those anti-wrap bars or make them up yourself?
Yeah, I'm growing more impatient about tires by the day. Got my axles high centered yesterday!
Yeah, I'm growing more impatient about tires by the day. Got my axles high centered yesterday!