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I know this has been discussed numerous times but I can't get the search to work. Anyway, I need to replace the Ball Joints on my '01 4x4. Is this a do it yourself job or do I need to take it somewhere? Also where is the best place to buy them?
I just replaced the right side upper and lower on my 2000 f-350 4x4.It was pretty easy. After removing the hub assy.,the brake caliper and caliper bracket,drive out the axle seal from behind and remove axle.Remove the tie rod end and take off balljoint nuts ,then drive out ball joints and take out knuckle assy. You can drive out balljoints with a hammer and brass,but a press is better.then put it all back together.Also the axle seal should be replaced every time the axle is removed.If you have vaccum operated hubs this seal could leak vaccum and cause sluggish or no ops of hubs.I forgot the removal of the wheel bearing assy.(four nuts removed from behind knuckle),it also has a o-ring that will affect your vaccum hubs.
Find a parts store that handles MOOG parts,they seem to be the choice of fleet garages.Have heard MOOG is better than stock balljoints.(not hard to do.)
I just replaced all 4 on mine, not A bad job at all. You will need A ball joint press. I changed the seals on the axle, next time I will try and save them. The worst part of the job was getting the new axle seals on the axle. I had many bad words flowing from my mouth. The rest of the job was pretty easy. About 6 hours, both sides. This includes cleaning and painting the knuckles while they were out (just because). I also changed the pass wheel bearing assm. I had already changed the drives side last month.
I used the moog HD greaseable ball joints
Ball joints - $200.00
Bearing assms - $650.00
Misc seals - $180.00
No more vibrations in the front end - PRICELESS
62,000 miles on my truck. The larger tires and wheels did not help. The drivers side was vibrating bad.I jacked the front end up, and the bearings were LOOSE. Just about ready to self distruct. I ordered both sides as I figured if one side was gone, the other side was to follow. The pass side was tight, but when I pulled it apart to replace ball joint ( I was going to change it anyway) the outer seal had failed and blew grease all over the inside of the rotor. I put the vented rotors on at about 50K and it was ok then. This is something to watch on the SDs I guess.
Ran my 4x4 F250 diesel to 150K before the original ball joints were replaced. Now either my torque convertor or my front bearings assemblies are making noise ($450 each side)! 158K miles on it now.
It's definitely not a misprint. The front wheel bearings are a sealed assembly. The cheapest I have heard of them is at Advance at the tune of about 280 a side.
It's definitely not a misprint. The front wheel bearings are a sealed assembly. The cheapest I have heard of them is at Advance at the tune of about 280 a side.
I'm with you guys, it's really expensive. Dynatrac is supposedly working on a true replacement kit that has servicable front bearing assemblies. When that will be available is beyond me, but the rumor's been around for a while. I imagine it's going to be pretty pricy though.
No misprint
$310.00 per side, from Ford (and I have A friend at A Ford dealer). Plus the GOV's cut. (Our GOV is building himself A beach house with our money). If you need to change them on your truck, buy the studs and nuts. Save yourself an hour on the change out (2)
I spoke to a local bearing supplier here locally and he promises me that he can beat the price as long as someone is making them for Ford and it isn't made by Ford. All I need is a part number he can cross reference. If someone will give me the part number I will promise to share the info