When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My bronco II is a 1987 california vehicle. It is a 2.9L V6 with four wheel drive. I believe that it has the Mitsubishi trans in it. Everything is sound, except the clutch. It catches when the pedal is all the way out. If you barely press the pedal, it completely disengages the clutch. It has had a new clutch put in it recently, however I am not the one that did the work.
Yes, I am sure that the slave cylinder was replaced when the clutch and pressure plate were replaced. Someone mentioned to me something about an adjustment on the slave cylinder...is there one?
I don't think so but I would like to have someone confirm it, I bet mrshorty will know.
How much money do you have for that bet, Ken?
I'm not familiar with all of them, but my '87 FM146 doesn't have any kind of adjustment for the clutch. It's hydraulic and self-adjusting. And from what I've been able to gather, it's not unusual for this vintage clutch to wait until the pedal is nearly out for the clutch to grab. As long as the clutch isn't actually slipping, you should be just fine.
Thanks for the info, mrshorty! I'm just wondering though, the clutch's grip doesn't seem to be that hard...it is extremely easy to smoke it. Is that normal? In any other vehicle that I have driven with a standard tranny, the clutch was extremely different, they all gripped better and caught right above the floor, not all the way at the top. I am not doubting your knowledge on the subject, I am just trying to get more learned on the subject.
I assume by "smoke it" you mean that it's easy to get the clutch to slip, even with no pressure on the pedal. That is a problem. Even though this clutch commonly waits until near the top of the pedal travel to fully engage, once it's engaged, it shouldn't slip.
Do you know if they got the right combination of slave cylinder/throwout bearing in? When I did my clutch, I found that the new throwout bearing was one piece, where the old bearing was two pieces, the bearing and the spacer. I almost put the new, one piece bearing in on top of the old one's spacer, which would have caused the throwout bearing to stick out too far and cause the clutch to not fully engage. If the throwout bearing wasn't installed in the slave cylinder correctly, it might cause what you are seeing.
From what little I've seen, if you get the clutch put together properly with the right parts and get it bled right, it should work just fine.
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to go check to see if that's the problem. I'll get back with a reply as soon as i can get to it. There is actually another problem I was wondering if you guys could help me out with...for some reason whenever I start the vehicle up for the first time in to morning [or afternoon, whenever] it is cold natured. Also, sometimes when the vehicle is warmed up, if I turn it off and it's only off for a few minutes when I try to restart it it will flood itself [I can smell the distinct smell of gasoline coming from the exhaust]. It will eventually start when it does this, but I found that sometimes it will flood itself so bad that I'd have to hold the accelerator on the floor [and no, I do not pump the accelorator when I'm trying to start it, I know you only do that in carbureted vehicles ]. Also, sometimes when I leave it idling for a while, the idle will adjust itself for no apparent reason. Sometimes it idles at the correct speed [isn't it 800 or 900, somewhere around there?] but mostly it will idle at 1100 and sometimes it has jumped up to 1300 or 1400. Again, it is a California vehicle, and California was higher with their emissions standards, so it may have a few extra things that other vehicles did not have on them [although I am not sure what all extras there are].
I don't know if there is a difference in California BII's vs. others or not.
This problem sounds like a leaky fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator. Pretty easy to make an initial check. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, pressurize the rail by running the fuel pumps, turn off the pumps and see how quickly the pressure falls.