Valve Adjustment, 302
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Valve Adjustment, 302
When I finally figure out the piston issue from my last post, I am going to need to put this engine back together. I have ordered a book, but I doubt it will be here in time.
Could anyone go over the process of assembling and adjusting the valves/lifters? I remember there is a way to do it while its running, but I can’t remember the whole process.
Thanks very
Could anyone go over the process of assembling and adjusting the valves/lifters? I remember there is a way to do it while its running, but I can’t remember the whole process.
Thanks very
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From: Rocksprings
from the Haynes Manual:
"on later engines with the positive-stop rocker arm studs, the piston must be set to the TDC postion...the the rocker arm nut must be screwed down fully and tightened to a torque wrench setting of 18-20 lb/ft. Push the rocker arm down so the valve lifter is in the fully collapsed position and check the clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem using feeler gauges."
valve clearance ranges:
302 minimum: 0.067" maximum: 0.167" so.... you have quite a range of preload that the lifters can and do handle.
hope this helps.
sean
"on later engines with the positive-stop rocker arm studs, the piston must be set to the TDC postion...the the rocker arm nut must be screwed down fully and tightened to a torque wrench setting of 18-20 lb/ft. Push the rocker arm down so the valve lifter is in the fully collapsed position and check the clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem using feeler gauges."
valve clearance ranges:
302 minimum: 0.067" maximum: 0.167" so.... you have quite a range of preload that the lifters can and do handle.
hope this helps.
sean
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
valve adjust, 302
That does help, thanks.
Do I need to have each cylinder at TDC before I tighten the rocker arm bolts?
What is considered a later engine?
Do I need to have each cylinder at TDC before I tighten the rocker arm bolts?
What is considered a later engine?
Last edited by packrat56; Jun 7, 2004 at 10:30 AM. Reason: More info needed
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Hi Pack Rat,
After about 1978, all factory 302's and 351w's, with the exception of the 90's Cobra/Explorer 5.0's, use pedalstal mount rocker arms similar to the 351C and 400 motors. This type uses a sled fulcrum to control side to side movement. You just bolt these down and tourqe to specs (16 lb-ft IIRC)when using hydralic lifters. The hydralic lifter compensates for all valve lash adjustments. They don't need to be at TDC when bolted down, provided the lifter bleeds off, but you may want to go through the firing order, after they are bolted down, and make sure you can turn the push rods with your fingers, when the valves for that cylinder are at 0 lift, or that cylinder is at TDC. Most pre 78 302s used non adjustable rockers that bolted to studs with positive stop shoulders. Side to side movement was controled by rails on the sides of the rocker tip that fit over the valve stem top. I don't care for this design but thats what the had. With this type you just tourqe the nut, and once again the hydralic lifter compensates for the lash adjustment. With hydralic lifters you don't want any clearance between the rocker tip and the valve stem or it will chatter.
After about 1978, all factory 302's and 351w's, with the exception of the 90's Cobra/Explorer 5.0's, use pedalstal mount rocker arms similar to the 351C and 400 motors. This type uses a sled fulcrum to control side to side movement. You just bolt these down and tourqe to specs (16 lb-ft IIRC)when using hydralic lifters. The hydralic lifter compensates for all valve lash adjustments. They don't need to be at TDC when bolted down, provided the lifter bleeds off, but you may want to go through the firing order, after they are bolted down, and make sure you can turn the push rods with your fingers, when the valves for that cylinder are at 0 lift, or that cylinder is at TDC. Most pre 78 302s used non adjustable rockers that bolted to studs with positive stop shoulders. Side to side movement was controled by rails on the sides of the rocker tip that fit over the valve stem top. I don't care for this design but thats what the had. With this type you just tourqe the nut, and once again the hydralic lifter compensates for the lash adjustment. With hydralic lifters you don't want any clearance between the rocker tip and the valve stem or it will chatter.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Thanks very much, my heads are 1970 I believe, so I just torque to specs and test for a free spinning pushrod when at 0 lift? How much piston damage will this engine allow? A washer was chewed up in 2 of the cylinders.
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Originally Posted by packrat56
Thanks very much, my heads are 1970 I believe, so I just torque to specs and test for a free spinning pushrod when at 0 lift? How much piston damage will this engine allow? A washer was chewed up in 2 of the cylinders.
A washer chewed up in 2 cylinders? elaborate.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Are you saying to measure rocker free play when the lifters are fully pumped up????
For a detailed discussion about the piston issue check out this thread of mine:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=247299
For a detailed discussion about the piston issue check out this thread of mine:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=247299
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From: Rocksprings
no, you check rocker free play with NO oil in the lifter. the rocker arm tip will be touching the valve stem, when a cylinder is at TDC push the rocker arm (push rod side) down as far as you can (compress the lifter) and refer to the measurements in my previous reply. more than likely you will have no problems, if these are all the same parts you removed before and it was a running engine AND you didn't have the machine shop go wild with milling the heads. assuming all that just bolt the things down like P51D said and go drive your truck! 
sean
sean
Last edited by 59Fguy; Jun 9, 2004 at 12:14 PM. Reason: 2 sigs
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Originally Posted by 59Fguy
no, you check rocker free play with NO oil in the lifter. the rocker arm tip will be touching the valve stem, when a cylinder is at TDC push the rocker arm (push rod side) down as far as you can (compress the lifter) and refer to the measurements in my previous reply. more than likely you will have no problems, if these are all the same parts you removed before and it was a running engine AND you didn't have the machine shop go wild with milling the heads. assuming all that just bolt the things down like P51D said and go drive your truck!
sean
sean
Last edited by ga302p; Jun 9, 2004 at 10:04 PM.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Ok, so I hate to open up another can of worms.. But here goes.
Background info:
I have a 302 with no noticable ridge in the cylinder, I am having the heads done due to my stupidity of dropping a washer in the intake and running it for a few seconds.(Machine shop said the guides are indeed bad so Im going ahead with guides and valves)
Question, Should I replace the lifters as a routine thing as long as the heads are off, or leave them alone (they sounded just fine before) ?????? Are lifters expensive? Im totally broke already, by the way..
The washer in the cylinder story: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=247299
Thanks everyone..
Background info:
I have a 302 with no noticable ridge in the cylinder, I am having the heads done due to my stupidity of dropping a washer in the intake and running it for a few seconds.(Machine shop said the guides are indeed bad so Im going ahead with guides and valves)
Question, Should I replace the lifters as a routine thing as long as the heads are off, or leave them alone (they sounded just fine before) ?????? Are lifters expensive? Im totally broke already, by the way..
The washer in the cylinder story: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=247299
Thanks everyone..
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From: Rocksprings
ga302p,
you must not know any mechanics that do machine work. i have been down this road with a couple of ford engines that were milled for comprssion and squelch area, thus leading to the requirement of different length pushrods. you find this out by doing what i posted. don't and you can and will break valve train components. same thing applied to the mopars i have built. frankly, i'll keep doing it "by the book" as it has done just fine by me.
packrat,
after reading your other post, it seems to me you have a fairly low mileage engine. go ahead and put that dude together, especially considering the financial aspect as stated in your previous post. i realize i have not seen your engine, but i think you will be ok.
sean
you must not know any mechanics that do machine work. i have been down this road with a couple of ford engines that were milled for comprssion and squelch area, thus leading to the requirement of different length pushrods. you find this out by doing what i posted. don't and you can and will break valve train components. same thing applied to the mopars i have built. frankly, i'll keep doing it "by the book" as it has done just fine by me.
packrat,
after reading your other post, it seems to me you have a fairly low mileage engine. go ahead and put that dude together, especially considering the financial aspect as stated in your previous post. i realize i have not seen your engine, but i think you will be ok.
sean
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Originally Posted by 59Fguy
ga302p,
you must not know any mechanics that do machine work. i have been down this road with a couple of ford engines that were milled for comprssion and squelch area, thus leading to the requirement of different length pushrods. you find this out by doing what i posted. don't and you can and will break valve train components. same thing applied to the mopars i have built. frankly, i'll keep doing it "by the book" as it has done just fine by me.
packrat,
after reading your other post, it seems to me you have a fairly low mileage engine. go ahead and put that dude together, especially considering the financial aspect as stated in your previous post. i realize i have not seen your engine, but i think you will be ok.
sean
you must not know any mechanics that do machine work. i have been down this road with a couple of ford engines that were milled for comprssion and squelch area, thus leading to the requirement of different length pushrods. you find this out by doing what i posted. don't and you can and will break valve train components. same thing applied to the mopars i have built. frankly, i'll keep doing it "by the book" as it has done just fine by me.
packrat,
after reading your other post, it seems to me you have a fairly low mileage engine. go ahead and put that dude together, especially considering the financial aspect as stated in your previous post. i realize i have not seen your engine, but i think you will be ok.
sean