I just got my set from Hooker. They are confirmed to be the correct headers for my truck. I cannot slide them down or up to work to save my life. I might could slide down the passenger side but the heater box is in the way(I'm dying to get a heater that fits *inside* instead of sticking in the dang way). I tried jacking up the passenger side of the motor and going from the bottom. If it wasnt for the starter that might just work. But it don't. I didnt really get to try the driver side since I haven't hooked up my clutch stuff yet. Anyone installed them on a 390 in our trucks? I just about think I will hafta pull the engine but I REALLY hope not. I am calling Holley tech tomorrow to see what they think.

 

When I had that 390 in my truck, I put headers on it. It's complicated, but it can be done. On the passenger side, take off the starter. Jack the engine up as far as it will go (til the bell housing of the transmision touches the cab). Put the header in from the top, but don't bolt it in place. Leave it loose where you can move it around. Reinstall the starter, then bolt the header in to place. I would highly recomend installing the driver side first. On the driver's side, the only thing to take loose is the nut that holds the the motor mount on to the engine stand. Jack the motor up as high as it will go, slip the header in and bolt it all up. Repost if you have anymore questions. What exact year model do you have?

 

It's a '77 4x4 w/ 4spd. I hadnt thought of leaving it loose w/ the starter off and then bolting it back up. I wonder if there will be any clutch related clearance issues on the driver side. Guess I'll find out next sunday when I'm off from work.

 

It might be wise to install a new starter while your at it if yours is very old. It may not be so easy to change once the headers are bolted up. Some header wrap in the starter area or a heat shield wouldn't be a bad Idea either if the header is that close to the starter.

 

Lxman has a good idea with the new starter. The header will have to come loose to change it. On the driver's side the header should clear everything fine. The only problem will be the collector flange that bolts to the exhaust pipe. There should be 3 bolts in it. Put all 3 bolts in and tighten the nuts finger tight. you will have to turn it just right to clear the "z" bar. Just tighten it finger tight, get in the truck and push your clutch down, if you feel the Z bar hit the collector, just turn it a little and try again til it clears. Once it clears tighten it up and you'll be set. I'm sure it sounds like a bigger deal than what it is. You will say some ugly words before you get everything bolted up, but with a little patience it will work and be well worth your effort. I had a 390 in my truck for a while. It had the headers, aluminum intake, MSD ignition module, and big distributor cap. It would probably have pulled a house down, and still got 14 mpg. I pulled it out in favor of a 460 and c6, and I'm starting to think I may have made a mistake. One other thing about the headers.... FE's are notorious for the exhaust bolts seizing up on the top side. I took an electric drill, and bored the threads out of the ears, then run a grade 8 bolt through my header and ear. Then put a lock washer and nut on the back side. Never had a problem with leaks or broken bolts again. Any more questions.....just ask.

 

Replace the starter with a NEW starter, not a reman...

 

I've been planning on a new starter for it. I cant wait to get the thing out and see what kind of power it really has. It'll rock the hell out of the truck. And I already bought ARP fasteners for my intake, headers, etc. Shouldnt have any breakage issues.

 

If money's not an issue (yeah right!!) you might want to invest in a gear reduction starter. They will work better under extreme conditions and are usually actually a little smaller than the stockers. I thought that I saw some on sale at Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for about $118. Don't quote me on that though. Look under internet specials I think is where I saw them.

 

Hey machfather, I was just curious about how your bracket and header instalation are going on your truck. Did you get that old FE figured out?

 

Patience is the key to installing headers and I would suggest MR.Gasket header gaskets.

I have a 428 and followed the previous steps with the starter and also I had to remove my brake proportioning valve

they sound great as i blow by 460's uphills and through the mud but not carrying a load of hay!!!!

 

True indeed - the Mr. Gasket copper gaskets are wonderful!! Add a set of Mr. Gasket header studs and it'll make that job a cinch to take apart later on...makes it great putting it together, too!!..

 

Well...I don't understand it. I called Holley...they said those ARE the headers for my truck and engine/tranny combo. But with the starter removal they still hit on the frame. So I just sent them back for now, I'll use the manifolds after freshening them up and maybe try another brand. The starter removal and jacking up the engine did get it there...just not were it would clear. And I had to remove one of the bolts for the shock tower.

 

Machfather....
Sorry you had to return your headers. My L&L's are a blast; I get comments about them all the time. They were rough putting in (engine had to be hoisted out of the frame as the pipes are so big for a 460), but once on they are a dream. And with them in, it takes less the 15 seconds to get the starter out... Certainly beats the headers I had on my GTO Judge!!

 

Did you look at DynoMax headers yet?
They were the only ones I could find to fit my '78 2WD 400 auto.

 

I'm checking around with some other places right now.