A/C problems please advise
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
A/C problems please advise
Hi and thanks in advance:
I am having some A/C problems with my 88 E-150 4.9L. I had a system leak the mechanic put dye in the system and replaced the O-ring seals. The A/C was working fine then started blowing hot. I shut if off, turned it on, and it was blowing cold again. When it is cool outside the compressor cycles on and off, when hot it stays on (normal)? I took it back and naturally it was working fine
. He told me the evaporator dryer could be bad, Clogged, causing an intermittent problem and to continue using the van.
I was thinking that a switch could be bad. Low pressure switch? I am mechanically inclined however A/C is not one of my strong points. Please advise.
If there is a switch that is bad, does the system have to be evacuated and recharged or can the switch be changed without doing that work?
Thanks
Frank D
I am having some A/C problems with my 88 E-150 4.9L. I had a system leak the mechanic put dye in the system and replaced the O-ring seals. The A/C was working fine then started blowing hot. I shut if off, turned it on, and it was blowing cold again. When it is cool outside the compressor cycles on and off, when hot it stays on (normal)? I took it back and naturally it was working fine
. He told me the evaporator dryer could be bad, Clogged, causing an intermittent problem and to continue using the van. I was thinking that a switch could be bad. Low pressure switch? I am mechanically inclined however A/C is not one of my strong points. Please advise.
If there is a switch that is bad, does the system have to be evacuated and recharged or can the switch be changed without doing that work?
Thanks
Frank D
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach, VA
the switch is screwed onto a schrader valve. you should be able to remove it and replace it as needed.
did you change it over to 134 from the 12 freon?
getting a 134 gauge to put on the system is easy and inexpensive.....
did you change it over to 134 from the 12 freon?
getting a 134 gauge to put on the system is easy and inexpensive.....
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Ouch. that's expensive. My 89 e-150 uses 6 cans at about $40 a can for 12. 134 is available at $3 a can.
Gauges are available so you could do a check on system pressures. Also, you can short the low pressure switch and that will cause the system to run continously.
I believe there is only the LP switch in the system (and the compresser clutch).
Check the gap on the clutch.
In cool temps I would THINK that cycling is normal, as is constant on for heat.
One thing might be the hot/cold flapper door. I believe it might be vacumn acuated. I've not had to work on mine so I can't be sure. but that would cause the system to work weird if it was not moving or was stuck.
If the hoses underhood are hot and cold when the dash air is "hot" (and the compressor is operating), then I would look at the flapper door and see if it is operational before I opened the system up for anything.
I also recommend doing a bit of reading at some of the online AC system sites to see if you can gain some hints to what might be happening.
Gauges are available so you could do a check on system pressures. Also, you can short the low pressure switch and that will cause the system to run continously.
I believe there is only the LP switch in the system (and the compresser clutch).
Check the gap on the clutch.
In cool temps I would THINK that cycling is normal, as is constant on for heat.
One thing might be the hot/cold flapper door. I believe it might be vacumn acuated. I've not had to work on mine so I can't be sure. but that would cause the system to work weird if it was not moving or was stuck.
If the hoses underhood are hot and cold when the dash air is "hot" (and the compressor is operating), then I would look at the flapper door and see if it is operational before I opened the system up for anything.
I also recommend doing a bit of reading at some of the online AC system sites to see if you can gain some hints to what might be happening.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Thanks, I checked the hot cold flapper door, and it seems to be OK, the clutch is operating well.
I was told the evaporator drier could be clogged, and my feeling was that if it were clogged the system would not work at all. That is why I am thinking low pressure switch. I will try shorting it out and see what happens.
I will search the web for A/C sites too.
I realized that the system was changed over to 134 years ago, sorry for the confusion!
Thanks for your time!
I was told the evaporator drier could be clogged, and my feeling was that if it were clogged the system would not work at all. That is why I am thinking low pressure switch. I will try shorting it out and see what happens.
I will search the web for A/C sites too.
I realized that the system was changed over to 134 years ago, sorry for the confusion!
Thanks for your time!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach, VA
That would be my thought also. If it is clogged, it would be inop all the time.
If 134, then you can do most of the work yourself if you have to open it up. I just did my system. New compressor, dryer, orifice tube, orings. I flushed the system before I reassembled and had a AC guy suck the system down.
and the reman compressor "ticks". POS. Next time I install a new compressor (about $100 more)
If 134, then you can do most of the work yourself if you have to open it up. I just did my system. New compressor, dryer, orifice tube, orings. I flushed the system before I reassembled and had a AC guy suck the system down.
and the reman compressor "ticks". POS. Next time I install a new compressor (about $100 more)
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
Update
Hi and thanks for the replies,
After 2 trips and $225 in "checking", and adding dye the mechanic thinks it's the evaporator. He claims it is leaking, but nothing in the engine compartment. He said it's under the dash, and wants another $400 to change the evaporator. He had me driving it with dye in the system until it leaked out, I've done this twice first time he changed the "o" rings, he said they were bad. Gas leaked out in about a week.
At this point I have been driving it on cool days with the window open. Is $400 a fair price to change an evaporator on an 88 E-150, the truck is mint.
thanks
After 2 trips and $225 in "checking", and adding dye the mechanic thinks it's the evaporator. He claims it is leaking, but nothing in the engine compartment. He said it's under the dash, and wants another $400 to change the evaporator. He had me driving it with dye in the system until it leaked out, I've done this twice first time he changed the "o" rings, he said they were bad. Gas leaked out in about a week.
At this point I have been driving it on cool days with the window open. Is $400 a fair price to change an evaporator on an 88 E-150, the truck is mint.
thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach, VA
don't know if it is a fair price or not. Never had to replace one.
sounds like he is easter egging a bit. He doesn't have a freon "sniffer"? a sniffer actually takes air sample and beeps if freon is present. I found a hose that leaked that way.
sounds like he is easter egging a bit. He doesn't have a freon "sniffer"? a sniffer actually takes air sample and beeps if freon is present. I found a hose that leaked that way.
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Originally Posted by demarpaint
That was my question to him, he claims the dye works just as well.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 139
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Good point, not being an expert in air conditioning I have a question. Wouldn't the dye and A/C oil be leaking on the floor inside the van if the evaporator was leaking? As I mentioned My knowledge of A/C repair is lacking.
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