tilt front end
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
On the top of this page, just above the blue "post reply" bubble, there is a blue menu. Click on "user CP" and then on the left, click "edit gallery". From there, select "create album" and you can load your images to the server. You may have to re-size them to get it to work. I can't remember what the size/pixel limits are, but I think it tells you with an error message if it is too large. Once you create a gallery, you can link to a pic and include it in a post.
Can't wait to see the pics!
Good Luck!
Can't wait to see the pics!
Good Luck!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: chicopee us
Take a look in my gallery, there are some pics of my all steel, hydraulically operated tilt nose. The hinges that were on the truck were shot. I looked into new ones but didn't want to spend the $$$ to by them so I fired up my sawzall and cut the nose off the truck. I had never undertaken such a large project but am very glad I did. All I have to do (from the driver's seat) is pull the hood latch release and push a button and the nose opens right up. It doesn't quite go to the 90 degree mark but it opens up pretty wide (real nice to work on the engine!!!). Then when I'm done just flip the switch and it closes right back down. The only drawback at this point is that I put a roll pan on the rear of the truck and was thining of one for the front but the hinges for the nose project out past the gravel pan by about 2-3 inches. Oh well....guess I live without the roll pan until I decide to redo the hinges.
Just in case you are interested, I used the pump and pistons from an older GM convertible to power the nose. I tucked the pump under the large crossmember under the radiator. Made a steel mounting plate and pushed it right up under there. Not even noticable unless you are looking for it.
Just in case you are interested, I used the pump and pistons from an older GM convertible to power the nose. I tucked the pump under the large crossmember under the radiator. Made a steel mounting plate and pushed it right up under there. Not even noticable unless you are looking for it.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Tim,
I looked at your gallery. I'm impressed. That is one hell of a job!
When I went to a recent all F-100 weekend cruise, I saw that at least a dozen (of the 200 or so) trucks there had tilt front ends. ALL of them were steel, like yours. Makes me wonder why do fiberglass.
How much weight does all that sheet metal total up to? Do you know? The hydraulic system probably could lift the whole truck, so it wouldn't matter. I just wondered how much weight the linear motor I have in mind would have to deal with.
Also, did you leave the seams in between fenders and hood or did you fill them in?
Thanks
I looked at your gallery. I'm impressed. That is one hell of a job!
When I went to a recent all F-100 weekend cruise, I saw that at least a dozen (of the 200 or so) trucks there had tilt front ends. ALL of them were steel, like yours. Makes me wonder why do fiberglass.
How much weight does all that sheet metal total up to? Do you know? The hydraulic system probably could lift the whole truck, so it wouldn't matter. I just wondered how much weight the linear motor I have in mind would have to deal with.
Also, did you leave the seams in between fenders and hood or did you fill them in?
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: chicopee us
I don't know the exact weight of the whole nose but I do know it is very heavy. It is hard to move around with two guys. I would bet it is close to 300# but that is only a guess.
Actually the hydraulics I used are for a convertible top so they are not extremely strong but more than enough to lift the nose. The nose actually wasn't that hard the tip by hand (with out the hydraulics). Most of the weight is right at the very tip of the nose so once the tip of the fender is pulled back about 1 foot the weight shifts and the nose basically opens itself (but then you have to stop it from hitting the ground).
I am leaving the gap between the fenders and hood because the sheet metal is the original and this was a real work truck (like most of them) in it's day so the seems would be too hard to make look correct. Plus I like the fact that the truck looks kinda stock (except for the cut line in the fender) until the nose is opened up.
The reason to go fibreglass is probably due to the replacement cost of new sheet metal parts if yours need to be replaced. My truck is definately a budget project. So I'm going to patch up the front fenders and reuse them, I'm not concerned with some bondo here and there.
Actually the hydraulics I used are for a convertible top so they are not extremely strong but more than enough to lift the nose. The nose actually wasn't that hard the tip by hand (with out the hydraulics). Most of the weight is right at the very tip of the nose so once the tip of the fender is pulled back about 1 foot the weight shifts and the nose basically opens itself (but then you have to stop it from hitting the ground).
I am leaving the gap between the fenders and hood because the sheet metal is the original and this was a real work truck (like most of them) in it's day so the seems would be too hard to make look correct. Plus I like the fact that the truck looks kinda stock (except for the cut line in the fender) until the nose is opened up.
The reason to go fibreglass is probably due to the replacement cost of new sheet metal parts if yours need to be replaced. My truck is definately a budget project. So I'm going to patch up the front fenders and reuse them, I'm not concerned with some bondo here and there.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster CA
Just wanted to say thanks for the pics. I have wanted to do that to my 50 but couldnt think of how and I wanted to keep all the sheet metal.Now everything is so clear. Looks great thanks again.
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