I've got an 85 i6 with the TFI-IV ignition system with feedback carb and after screwing with it trying to get it to run right, I've decided to change it out for the Duraspark 2 system.Can someone tell me what all I will need for this swap and what would be a good donor year.
Thanks everyone for a great site and for all the generous help you all have given me over time.

Smitty

 

Do a site "search" for duraspark II and also see "The ranger Station" web site for two good articles for the DSII swap - Also, you may consider the DSII / HEI combo swap.
check www.gofastforless.com

 

Can I ask a dumb question? What is the feedback carb and does it hurt anything to run a different one? Just wondering because I have a 2bbl on mine now and not a lick of spark advance...

I believe any of the post 1968 Duraspark units have both vacuum and centrifugal advance... pre 68 were vacuum only... so any of the post 68 units would be fine. It's not going to just drop in though... you'll have the external module with the duraspark unit and I'm not sure how that wiring inter-changes really. You may just look for an old coil and point/condensor unit from the early 70's and drop in a solid state electronic ignition conversion from someone like Pertronix . Check out their ignitor systems, they're like $75 bucks and it takes about 15 minutes to do the swap. I had a 72 F250 with the 390 that I put this on, re-man distributer at the local parts house was about $30, and then $75 for the ignitor... $100 and I never had to adjust points again.

 

Thanks Oscar and Johnboy, I appreicate any and all help. For an exwelder who should have paid more attention, I do thank you.I know that I will need the distributor, the coil, the module and the wiring harness, anything else?

 

I just did a TFI-IV to Dura-spark2 swap on my 86 F150 4x. I got my stuff at a local junk yard(Washington state). I got a 1977 dist. cap, rotor, coil, module, wiring harness, and a 1 bbl non feedback carb for $100 It took me about 4 to 5 hours to switch things and get it running. It took me awhile to find a good hot wire to feed the module and don't forget to add a ballest resistor or resister wire, buy one for a 77 duraspark 2 it will work fine. My truck has not run this good in a long time and has not idled this good in many years.

 

check out the classifieds here for parts
plenty of vehickles being parted out
you should be able to get it all in one place

 

Could you tell me more about this resistor wire? I think I know or have a good idea. Where did you get the power from? I'm sorry for the dumb questions but I'm not thinking too good right now, had to get towed in today and I'm still upset ( more than upset but this is family forum).

 

I did this to my 86 F250, on the left fender there are the connectors, unplug em and remove wiring to engine, distributor, gauge senders. You need from junkyard: iginition module and screw to mount it, wiring from those connectors to the engine, coil and mount, distributor, cap and rotor. You'll also need new plug wires. I would set the engine to TDC before you start. I used the feedback carb to run it, but not liking all the wires hanging off, I pulled the carb off my 80 F150 and used it. I have a message posted looking to correctly identify which port on the card is the vacuum advance port on this forum.

I have it running now, but it doesn't start well (the 80 F150 started fine) so I'm still playing with the ignition/timing.

 

I read about the resistor wire in a article on www.fordsix.com/duraspark.htm the article shows a diagram for the duraspark 2 wiring. I did not follow the diagram excatly.
I tested wires that were in the harnesses on the inner left fender till I got one that was hot while starting and when the key is in the on position, and used that one insted of using two wires as the diagram shows. This is the wire I ran through a ballast resistor and then to the new coil. I also need to tell you I removed all of my emissions when I did this, so I don't know how things may be with them left in place. It does look much better under the hood with out all those vacuum hoses. I only have one now and it leads to the vac advance on the dist. I hooked up the electrical stuff first with wires loose to make sure it started the tied stuff back and secured the new things. Then I did the carb, this way I new if it didn't start it was a carb problem. Also my truck pinged really bad, after the changes at 10 degrees BTDC, so I retarded it to 4 and that did away with most of it. 89+ octane did away with any pinging after retarding the timing. I know I've told you alot more than you asked for hope I didn't put you to sleep.

 

No man, you didn't put me to sleep. I appreicate all of you fellas sharing your expertise and I need all of the help I can get. If there is any thing else any of think I should know just holler.

Smitty