spray can...
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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spray can...
I'm in te process of polishing my truck because I can't afford to paint it.
However, there are some spots that have surface rust. I was thinking of spray painting some areas and making it look like an intentional design (ex. top of truck one color, bottom half original color).
Anyway, my question is, what would be the BEST fade resistant/rust proof (black or drk green) spray paint I can use?
Thanks in advanced,
However, there are some spots that have surface rust. I was thinking of spray painting some areas and making it look like an intentional design (ex. top of truck one color, bottom half original color).
Anyway, my question is, what would be the BEST fade resistant/rust proof (black or drk green) spray paint I can use?
Thanks in advanced,
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Rattle can.... I know i may be asking for too much but I think I can get good results (under the circumstanes) if I get the best rattle can paint possible.
That's funny, I actually wanted your opinion on this, Aekisu.
Thanks
That's funny, I actually wanted your opinion on this, Aekisu.
Thanks
CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,209
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
I've had good luck with Rustoleum (never painted a truck with it tho). Your biggest problem is going to be keeping the can at a constant distance and starting/stopping your sweep before/after the truck (that, plus the bugs). Good luck - let us know how it turns out.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
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If you look in my pics, I am painting my entire truck with rustoleum. It is turning out pretty good. Prep is essential, just as with a regular paint job. I anticipate that my truck will be a good "20 footer" when I am done. I would be VERY surprised to win any shows, but it will look good on my budget. You will have to clearcoat, or it will fade in about a year. Also, use a tack rag about 100 times. Most of all, take your time, and good luck. Ted
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Great advise. Prep is the word and then the proper application technique.
Wash (scrub actually) with Dawn (or similar) dishwasher soap. Degrease by spraying a degreaser on and wiping off with paper towels. Scuff the old paint with 400 grit.
Rattle can painting is done just like spray gun painting. Maintain a constant distance between your gun and work surface. 50% overlap between passes. Since you can't adjust the reducer mix, pick a day of about 70F. This should give you the correct flowout.
A lot of rattle can paint doesn't offer much UV protection so expect fading. You might try getting in touch with some of the companies and see if they have something to offer. Please pass along the info you get. I'm sure a lot of us would be interested.
Great advise. Prep is the word and then the proper application technique.
Wash (scrub actually) with Dawn (or similar) dishwasher soap. Degrease by spraying a degreaser on and wiping off with paper towels. Scuff the old paint with 400 grit.
Rattle can painting is done just like spray gun painting. Maintain a constant distance between your gun and work surface. 50% overlap between passes. Since you can't adjust the reducer mix, pick a day of about 70F. This should give you the correct flowout.
A lot of rattle can paint doesn't offer much UV protection so expect fading. You might try getting in touch with some of the companies and see if they have something to offer. Please pass along the info you get. I'm sure a lot of us would be interested.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,147
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From: East Coast
I rattle canned one of the front fenders of my truck in black about 2 years ago and it still looks good. I used napa commercial coat. I don't know if they still sell it. It didn't fade, but it wasn't as shiney a black as the rest of the truck to start. After some rubbing and wax it came up pretty good though. Just over the weekend I did the other front fender. This time it was over the original black paint, not primer like the other side was. It came out pretty good, looks better than it did. This time I used duplicolor. I still havn't rubbed it out yet, so we'll see.
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Logistics Pro
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Aekisu, that is why I said to clear it. I painted some wheels about 4 years ago using this same setup, and I cleared them. The 2 previous times I painted them I didn't, and they faded. This last time, I cleared them, and they are still shiny black. You are right about the 70 degree day thing. I have found that is almost essential. One problem I have had with the clearcoat is that it dries really quick, and some overspray lands and is a little grainy. The good thing is that about 98% of it doesn't stick, so it wipes or washes off. It is just annoying that it is harder to get right than the paint. Ted
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: green bay, WI
If you are doing a fairly decent sized area you may be better of finding a gun and compressor to rent are borrow. By the time you add up the cost of all the spray bombs you have to buy to do a large area buying one of the affordable lines of auto paint may come out at about the same price or less. Then you can also use a clear with a hardener which will give good uv protection and last longer. Plus with a spray gun in compressor your paint won't be as thinned out and probably come out better if you have the skills to use the spray gun or practice a bit with it. Just my opinion. If it is just a small area you are doing and are just looking to get it done real cheap, maybe with some wetsanding and light rubbing out you can get it to look decent. I wouldn't go to nuts on wetsanding and buffing though, because the spray can paint won't have a hardener in the paint.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally Posted by teds74ford
Aekisu, that is why I said to clear it. I painted some wheels about 4 years ago using this same setup, and I cleared them. The 2 previous times I painted them I didn't, and they faded. This last time, I cleared them, and they are still shiny black. You are right about the 70 degree day thing. I have found that is almost essential. One problem I have had with the clearcoat is that it dries really quick, and some overspray lands and is a little grainy. The good thing is that about 98% of it doesn't stick, so it wipes or washes off. It is just annoying that it is harder to get right than the paint. Ted
Dennis
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