timing
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From: SANDIEGO
timing
why is my firing order off by one all the way around.the truck runs great. it makes no sense. i was thinking timing chain. maybe skipped a loop.i bought the truck about 2.5months ago.i found that the distributor was loose and would constantly change timing on me. finally i got it tight and set timing. like above the truck runs great. i am going to pull the tc cover and put #1 to tdc and find wear the marks are and see if they are lined if they are than i dont know why the truck would run so good off by one.if it isnt than i am going to replace it with a gear drive from jegs or edelbrock
does sound like i am on the right path or is there a simpler way instead of tearing apart my motor.
does sound like i am on the right path or is there a simpler way instead of tearing apart my motor.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Can't be the cam timing, if it was off the engine wouldn't run worth crap.
Soulds more like somebody stabbed the dizzy without the engine being at #1 TDC. Which way is it off, one ahead or one behind?
Soulds more like somebody stabbed the dizzy without the engine being at #1 TDC. Which way is it off, one ahead or one behind?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
By "OFF by ONE", do you mean moving the plug wires around one spot it runs good??
No biggie, unless it really bothers you. If you want, rotate the crank to TDC and rotor pointing to the #1 wire(the one that runs good). Now pull dizzy and rotate the rotor until it points to the #1 on the cap. Now move the wires back to their proper spot. Ta Daaaa, you're now right on.
This is something that DOES NOT NEED TO BE DONE! But if it makes you feel better do it. It will run fine no matter where the #1 is on the cap. They just mark it to make it more uniform for everyone. Personally I think all my #1's are on different spots on every motor I have(since most have aftermarket dizzies).
If it runs fine...leave it.
No biggie, unless it really bothers you. If you want, rotate the crank to TDC and rotor pointing to the #1 wire(the one that runs good). Now pull dizzy and rotate the rotor until it points to the #1 on the cap. Now move the wires back to their proper spot. Ta Daaaa, you're now right on.
This is something that DOES NOT NEED TO BE DONE! But if it makes you feel better do it. It will run fine no matter where the #1 is on the cap. They just mark it to make it more uniform for everyone. Personally I think all my #1's are on different spots on every motor I have(since most have aftermarket dizzies).
If it runs fine...leave it.
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From: SANDIEGO
Originally Posted by Freightrain
By "OFF by ONE", do you mean moving the plug wires around one spot it runs good??
No biggie, unless it really bothers you. If you want, rotate the crank to TDC and rotor pointing to the #1 wire(the one that runs good). Now pull dizzy and rotate the rotor until it points to the #1 on the cap. Now move the wires back to their proper spot. Ta Daaaa, you're now right on.
This is something that DOES NOT NEED TO BE DONE! But if it makes you feel better do it. It will run fine no matter where the #1 is on the cap. They just mark it to make it more uniform for everyone. Personally I think all my #1's are on different spots on every motor I have(since most have aftermarket dizzies).
If it runs fine...leave it.
No biggie, unless it really bothers you. If you want, rotate the crank to TDC and rotor pointing to the #1 wire(the one that runs good). Now pull dizzy and rotate the rotor until it points to the #1 on the cap. Now move the wires back to their proper spot. Ta Daaaa, you're now right on.
This is something that DOES NOT NEED TO BE DONE! But if it makes you feel better do it. It will run fine no matter where the #1 is on the cap. They just mark it to make it more uniform for everyone. Personally I think all my #1's are on different spots on every motor I have(since most have aftermarket dizzies).
If it runs fine...leave it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 21
From: Texas
He is referring to a gear drive timing set. It replaces the timing chain with a set of gears that drive the cam instead of a chain. They sound really neat, but I have heard only bad things about using them on FEs. And ,I don't know anybody that is actually running one on an FE.
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 367
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if you have an fe motor, those gear drives are quite expensive! also with the geardrives for the fe you can't run the mechanical fuel pump, you have to get a electric pump. a good double roller timing chain will be just as good if not better then a gear drive, for a quarter of the cost.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
I would leave a stock type chain in it(don't get one of those nylon set ups though). For a stocker, that is MORE than adequate for 100,000 miles of useage. $20 at your local autoparts store and you're set.
If you want to spend the $90 for a roller, do it, but it is not necessary. You will NEVER know the difference!! (only your pocketbook). Just my opinion.
As greg mentioned...gear drives for FE's are way expensive and by no means needed. Not sure of the fuel pump problem. The Milodon version I think would accept a pump cam on the front, but it takes machining to fit properly(not a driveway bolt on). I know the ol' Pete Jackson gear drive whine is cool and all....but the good ones DON'T whine(that's why they are much more expensive).
If the motor is pretty original and has +100,000 miles on it, then a new stock type chain will do you great. If someone has already put a chain in it,then I would assume it would not need another.
If you're expecting some great POWER gains from this....sorry, a gear drive won't do it.
If you want to spend the $90 for a roller, do it, but it is not necessary. You will NEVER know the difference!! (only your pocketbook). Just my opinion.
As greg mentioned...gear drives for FE's are way expensive and by no means needed. Not sure of the fuel pump problem. The Milodon version I think would accept a pump cam on the front, but it takes machining to fit properly(not a driveway bolt on). I know the ol' Pete Jackson gear drive whine is cool and all....but the good ones DON'T whine(that's why they are much more expensive).
If the motor is pretty original and has +100,000 miles on it, then a new stock type chain will do you great. If someone has already put a chain in it,then I would assume it would not need another.
If you're expecting some great POWER gains from this....sorry, a gear drive won't do it.
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From: SANDIEGO
Originally Posted by Freightrain
I would leave a stock type chain in it(don't get one of those nylon set ups though). For a stocker, that is MORE than adequate for 100,000 miles of useage. $20 at your local autoparts store and you're set.
If you want to spend the $90 for a roller, do it, but it is not necessary. You will NEVER know the difference!! (only your pocketbook). Just my opinion.
As greg mentioned...gear drives for FE's are way expensive and by no means needed. Not sure of the fuel pump problem. The Milodon version I think would accept a pump cam on the front, but it takes machining to fit properly(not a driveway bolt on). I know the ol' Pete Jackson gear drive whine is cool and all....but the good ones DON'T whine(that's why they are much more expensive).
If the motor is pretty original and has +100,000 miles on it, then a new stock type chain will do you great. If someone has already put a chain in it,then I would assume it would not need another.
If you're expecting some great POWER gains from this....sorry, a gear drive won't do it.
If you want to spend the $90 for a roller, do it, but it is not necessary. You will NEVER know the difference!! (only your pocketbook). Just my opinion.
As greg mentioned...gear drives for FE's are way expensive and by no means needed. Not sure of the fuel pump problem. The Milodon version I think would accept a pump cam on the front, but it takes machining to fit properly(not a driveway bolt on). I know the ol' Pete Jackson gear drive whine is cool and all....but the good ones DON'T whine(that's why they are much more expensive).
If the motor is pretty original and has +100,000 miles on it, then a new stock type chain will do you great. If someone has already put a chain in it,then I would assume it would not need another.
If you're expecting some great POWER gains from this....sorry, a gear drive won't do it.
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