Ford 460 swap
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Ford 460 swap
I have a 1979 ford f1504wd that I am currently restoring. Recently I bought a 1969 460 out of a lincoln. I have several questions and hopefully someone out there can help me. 1st I will be putting my 1979 c6 behind this motor but i know that the torque converters for pre77 c6s used different crank pilot holes. So can I use a converter from pre 77 in my 79 c6? 2nd this engine has the crank driven power steering pump. Can I reuse it and replumb the hoses or should I get conversion brackets and run my 79 power steering pump and alternator? 3rd will the electrical connections on the 460(harnesses and plugs) mate with my connections on my 79? Ps I have the 460 flexplate and gasket so my tranny housing will mate with the back of the 460 I am concerned over the convertor issue. This engine from the factory was rated at 365bhp so i was planning on running a stall convertor 2000-2600 range. 4th. Will the exhaust manifolds work? I know I have to modify the motor mounts but will the stock manifolds work or will I need to get fender exit headers? any help that you can give will be greatly appreciated. Thanks john
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
Welcome to the forum 
You can usually use the car manifolds if you notch out the passenger side frame because the car manifold angles out some at the bottom flange. You may be able to locate a set of truck 460 manifolds if you don't want to notch out the frame.
I wouldn't run that much stall. I would get about a 1800 stall, or just use the one that came with the 460 if you have it. These engines make plenty of torque 500lb/ft.
If the input shafts are the same diameter, you should be able to use the 69 converter in the 79 tranny.
Jimmy
You can usually use the car manifolds if you notch out the passenger side frame because the car manifold angles out some at the bottom flange. You may be able to locate a set of truck 460 manifolds if you don't want to notch out the frame.
I wouldn't run that much stall. I would get about a 1800 stall, or just use the one that came with the 460 if you have it. These engines make plenty of torque 500lb/ft.
If the input shafts are the same diameter, you should be able to use the 69 converter in the 79 tranny.
Jimmy
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From: waco
Like Lxman said car manifolds won't work without notching the frame rail on the right side. The left should fit. You will need to get either truck manifolds, van manifolds, or headers. I'm not sure what a fender well header is, but I have headers that go between the frame and the block just like an ordinary header. If you opt for the truck or van manifolds, holler at me. The transmission should just bolt right up. I have also heard that the car alternator bracket will put the alternator close enough to the frame rail to rub. Conversion brackets are very expensive. I went to the wrecking yard and bought a set of brackets and pulleys for my engine. If you don't listen to anything else, listen very carefuly to this.....If you go and buy your stuff from a wrecking yard like I did, make double sure to get a set that all comes from the same engine, and get every piece you will need. If you need a list, holler back, and I will hook you up. I can email pictures and part numbers if needed. Another word of advice is to bolt your engine and tranny together, and go in to the truck all in one piece. A c6 is a huge pain to handle laying on your back. I hope this helps you.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Washington
My frame rail is notched to accomodate the manifold for my 460. I would recommend going with fenderwell exit headers. Cutting into your frame will only weaken it.
You can buy engine mounts for a 460 swap. Check with the site sponsors.
And you might also want to check with your state to make sure its okay to put an older engine in your truck. The emissions police can be pretty tough in some places.
You can buy engine mounts for a 460 swap. Check with the site sponsors.
And you might also want to check with your state to make sure its okay to put an older engine in your truck. The emissions police can be pretty tough in some places.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
I have the 77 Lincoln Mark V 100amp low mounted alt on my 77 and it clears fine. I also have a 69 Mark IV power steeing pump and bracket on it. It is the same as the 77. I didn't like running that big old Hydra-boost GM style pump on mine that was in the 77 Mark V. I think I saved 100lbs by removing that big ps/ac bracket.
I just added a couple of pictures in my gallery in the steering stabilizer and low mounted acc. set.
I just added a couple of pictures in my gallery in the steering stabilizer and low mounted acc. set.
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Joined: May 2003
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Originally Posted by LxMan1
I have the 77 Lincoln Mark V 100amp low mounted alt on my 77 and it clears fine. I also have a 69 Mark IV power steeing pump and bracket on it. It is the same as the 77. I didn't like running that big old Hydra-boost GM style pump on mine that was in the 77 Mark V. I think I saved 100lbs by removing that big ps/ac bracket.
I just added a couple of pictures in my gallery in the steering stabilizer and low mounted acc. set.
I just added a couple of pictures in my gallery in the steering stabilizer and low mounted acc. set.
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From: Louisville,Ky.
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From: waco
I just looked at Lxman's gallery. My brackets Look just like his with the exception of I have the brackets for a compressor. I pirated my brackets and pulleys from a 74 F 150. If you want to run A/C, make sure you get the compressor pulley along with every thing else. I have an extra set of brackets and pulleys but they came from an 83 model van. They will work on your truck, but they are set up to run a saginaw pump, and in my opinion it just looks wrong on one of our trucks. Also the fittings for the power steering pump are different than the pump that goes to our trucks, so you end up having to have a hose made. I have the hose to go with the pump, but would still highly recomend just doing it right. Look at Lxman's gallery, thats the type of brackets that you need. Let me know if you run into any problems.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
Yeah, that GM pump just didn't look right under the hood of my Ford
What I did when I had the Saginaw pump was cut the metal tubing on the hose from the donor car and cut the one that was on my truck. Then I coupled them together with a compression union. It worked great for the year and 1/2 that I ran that pump. It never caused a minutes problem. Then I just bought the correct hose for the truck when I put the right pump on it.
What I did when I had the Saginaw pump was cut the metal tubing on the hose from the donor car and cut the one that was on my truck. Then I coupled them together with a compression union. It worked great for the year and 1/2 that I ran that pump. It never caused a minutes problem. Then I just bought the correct hose for the truck when I put the right pump on it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Other side of the sunrise
On that 69 power steering pump mounted at the crank shaft. I did the same conversion. I went to a wrecking yard and found a later model lincoln engine (73 i think) bought the crank shaft sleave/race that slips over the crank shaft and seals to the timing chain cover crank shaft hole. I replaced the sleave on my 69 crank shaft with 73 sleave and then went to the dealer to buy a new timing chain cover and seal. I bought a new 73 timing chain cover as I could not find one at a wrecking yard that wasn't dammaged by electrolocis.
Before all of this, I tried just replacing the stock 69 seal without using the power stering pump assembled but kept blowing seals. I had a heck of a time finding seals to replace the stock one too so the timing chain cover and sleave option worked very well for me. It's been installed now for about 14 years now and doesn't leak a bit.
edit: thinking back, I seem to recall needing to use a puller to get the sleave off.
Before all of this, I tried just replacing the stock 69 seal without using the power stering pump assembled but kept blowing seals. I had a heck of a time finding seals to replace the stock one too so the timing chain cover and sleave option worked very well for me. It's been installed now for about 14 years now and doesn't leak a bit.
edit: thinking back, I seem to recall needing to use a puller to get the sleave off.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Northern Illinois
there were 3 different sizes for the hub pilot, 1 1/8" 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" I think they were, more than likely you will be buying a converter, I would go with an 1800 stall from TCI
measure the hole in the crank on the 460 motor, if your lucky it will be 1 1/4" I think that is the size of the 400 motor's (I take it you had a 400 in this truck). an early model big block uses the 1 1/8" hub pilot
all electrical will plug right in and work fine
look at L+L's website, use the power steering mount's from them and use the 79 setup
get yourself a set of fenderwell headers from L+L, very thick flange's, lifetime warranty and no hassle's getting them installed. look in my gallery to see a pic of them installed on my truck
I used the complete kit from L+L when I put the 429 in my 3/4 ton, bracket's, aluminum pulley's and the fenderwell header's, if I do another swap it will be all from them again. TOP NOTCH stuff there.
measure the hole in the crank on the 460 motor, if your lucky it will be 1 1/4" I think that is the size of the 400 motor's (I take it you had a 400 in this truck). an early model big block uses the 1 1/8" hub pilot
all electrical will plug right in and work fine
look at L+L's website, use the power steering mount's from them and use the 79 setup
get yourself a set of fenderwell headers from L+L, very thick flange's, lifetime warranty and no hassle's getting them installed. look in my gallery to see a pic of them installed on my truck
I used the complete kit from L+L when I put the 429 in my 3/4 ton, bracket's, aluminum pulley's and the fenderwell header's, if I do another swap it will be all from them again. TOP NOTCH stuff there.
Last edited by ranger429; Jun 5, 2004 at 04:54 PM.
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