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I have been having an oil leak in the front of my 7.3 PSD. Ford has changed the front seal twice in 6 weeks. This last time they told me to run it 200 miles to get the engine warm to set the seal. Is this true. Are they blowing smoke up my rear? If so true, how do they set the seals on new trucks? Thanks for any info.
I don't know if that is true, the old seal might have damaged the crackshaft. Most diesels are RUN-IN on a dynomometer at the factory to measure the HP, and torque and to check for proper operation.
Your dealer is blowing smoke up your A--. Find another dealer, that can work on PSD, sounds like the crank has damage and they probaly dont want to fix it. A seal is a seal and will work from the second it is installed.
Since the seal has a spring on the inside to keep tension on the rubber, it may have had the spring damage the crank on the original seal.
If the crank is damaged, he might be able to find a speedy sleeve
of the right diameter. I have used them before on axle stubs with success and I don't see why one wouldn't work on a crank.
Yeh, but if it is still under warrenty I would make them replace the crank, I have used redi-sleve before, but I would not let the dealer use this. Make them fix it right.
I appreciate all the info. I have an appt. Monday to hopefully fix this problem for the fifth time in 3 months. I am bringing it to a different Ford mechanic this time. I am out of the 100,000 miles warranty. I do have an extended warranty I bought when I purchased the truck in Nov 2000. Another question: Is their a "Lemon Law" for used trucks? The dealership gave me a 3 month/3000 miles warranty when I bought the truck. That warranty is almost over. Do I have a leg to stand on to give this truck back if they can't or won't fix it this time to give it back?
The lemon law does not apply due to the amount of mileage, though Ford may still help you. If you can show that there was a problem before the warrently expired and it was not fixed properly, you may get them to fix it. Talk with the dealer if not contact ford customer relations.
Everybody is blowing you smoke! The seal is pressed into the oil pump housing which is bolted to the front cover. There is a rubber O-ring that seals the oil pump housing to the front cover. The seal provides a seal between the oil pump housing and the vibration damper which has a wear ring on the sealing surface from the factory. Make sure: 1) the O-ring is not pinched or leaking. 2) the oil pump housing is not damaged or cracked. 3) the wear ring is not damaged, scratched or in any way mutilated. 4) the vibration damper is not cracked at the key way. As you can see the crankshaft has no part in this seal leakage problem unless it is leaking between the vibration damper and the crankshaft. So, if they change the seal again make sure they change the wear ring along with it and Locktite it to the vibration damper. Also,squirt a dab of RTV in the key way of the vibration damper before they reinstall it and make sure it goes on straight or it will crack along the key way. If after these instructions are followed it still leaks, have them put some dye in the oil and using a black light see where it is coming from.
Hey Joe, as previously stated I took my truck to another Ford mechanic. They used the dye and black light. They found the oil pan gasket leaking. Hopefully this is the fix after the fifth time. I would like to know what the Ford mechanics were doing the first four times. Just got the truck back Saturday. Hopefully no more leaks.
I hope this takes care of the problem for you. The oil pan is sealed with Wacker RTV (yes, Wacker, I didn't make that up). It is diffecult to get it properly sealed at the factory -- I can't imagine trying to do it in the truck.