I replaced all the brake lines running to the back on my 83 F-250. I didn't touch the fronts. I filled up the master cylinder and got my mom to pump the brake pedal and hold it down. When she was holding it down I would crack the bleeder on the cylinder furthest away from the master cylinder. Did that side till the fluid ran clear with no air bubbles. Repeated the same on the other side. I seem to remember when I did it with my dad the pedal went all the way to the floor, now it only goes half to three quarters of the way to the floor. When I finish bleeding it, I start the truck and take it for a test drive and the pedal goes almost to the floor. Since I lost my dad to cancer I cant ask him what to do, so I'm asking you guys. What do you guys suggest.

 

I would say rebleed it. It sounds like you may have got a little air in from the master cylinder. You have to keep checking it. Also, when your mom is pushing on the pedal, open and close it both before she is to the floor. If she reaches the floor, or lets the pedal return, you will suck air back in the cylinder you are bleeding. One other thing, maybe you don't have the shoes adjusted out far enough. This can also cause further pedal travel. You didn't say whether you messed with them or not. Hopefully these things will help. Ted

 

I've got the brakes set so they have a slight drag on the drum. It actualy turns out that one of the front lines had busted open when pumping the brakes to bleed the back side. At least I know where all my troubles are coming from. Darn, I hate that rust!!

 

Hi Scott,

It's been my experience that the first rubber lines to go south are the fronts, and those steel lines will rust almost as quick. My '77 was purchased in 1986 and in 87 I replaced the rubber lines all way round (4 of them) and just a few years later I replaced the steel going to the rear (the ones on the front axle in the weather are attached to the rubber lines to the frt wheels and got replaced already). I recently just replaced the front rubber lines to the wheels again due to small cracks.
The one coming down from the frame looks OK and is not available anywhere I can find, but the rear one is still available. It looks like I may be able to use a rear one on the front, just have to make a bracket to attach the hold down to the axle.

The front wheel rubber lines flex the most as they are flexed pretty sharp everytime you turn the wheel where as the ones coming down from the frame flex on bumps, it is very minor in comparison. My '84 Subaru got all new lines last year due to some cracking at the front lines, steel looked OK. Always check the outside of the sharp curve on the front lines near the fitting at the caliper, that's where they seem to show first cracking.

For the steel lines, I have found that the lengths offered at NAPA often work out well, just be careful bending them. Use a tubing bender for sharp bends, and attach the line with those cushioned clamps to the frame every few feet. I also spray the whole line with a degreasing agent like 2+2 gum cutter and wipe down then spray liberally with a clear laquer or enamel after installing new steel lines ... after bleeding and checking for leaks. Line wreches are a must.

I wonder how many of those people around me in traffic at 65+ mph on the interstate are driving a vehicle with cracked rubber lines or almost rusted through metal lines?

On another note .... I am 50 now, lost my father to Multiple Myaloma in 1969 when I was 15, I know how you feel. I can still hear his voice so plain as he explained why he did this or that when I was being a pest and asking questions while he worked. I miss him.

Take care ........ Les

 

Maby youre proportioning block safety valve tripped. Look at it & see if the pin is sticking out, if it is push it back in. Always pump slowly when bleeding brakes.

 

Thanks for all your help guys! Today I bought all new lines for the front. Two new flex lines and two steel tubes. On the steel tubes I'm going have to cut the fitting off of one side of each because the fittings that go into the proportioning valve are metric (according to the colour coded fitting). Looks like I'll get some more use out of my double flaring kit for the steel lines. Well thats a project for tomorrow after school (hope the misquitos aren't as bad tomorrow as they were tonight).
Have a good night.

 

Were the brake lines expensive? It might not be a bad idea to replace them on my '93 w/ 250K miles...

 

Dave, they can get as expensive as you want them to be. My stainless ones were $170, and that didn't get me much. I also bought replacement ones from carquest, and they only ran a couple bucks- I think the most expensive one was $10, and it was about 4' long.

 

To keep from sucking air back in when you let up on the pedal, put a bleeder hose on the brake clyinder bleed fitting and put the other end into a jar or pop bottle half full of brake fluid. (make sure the hose is below the fluid level in the jar) Open the bleeder fitting. When you press down on the pedal it will blow bubbles in the bottle, and when you let up on the pedal, it sucks fluid back in instead of air. You can bleed your brakes this way if you don't have any one to help.