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302 stalls/quits

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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 10:20 AM
  #1  
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cnadaddy
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302 stalls/quits

full size '90 bronco 302. It starts fine then produces a rough idle, almost dies then recovers without any help on my part, this repeats for a few minutes, any time of day, put into drive/reverse and it wants to quit and sometimes it does. Driving down the road it stalls out, sometimes dies (put in park and restarts just fine), and sometimes recovers and then normal. I am at the end of the rope as far as what I can think of and the end of the money tree. Here is what I have checked (replaced mainly): fuel pump and wiring, fuel filter, egr valve, egr positioning sensor, ignition module on distributor, ignition switch on steering column, stator/pickup coil in distributor, grounds are all new and good on engine, fuel pump, frame, body. rotor and cap are good, fairly new plugs. I'm checking the vacuum lines tonight, other than that? I appreciate all the wisdom and experience you all share.
 

Last edited by cnadaddy; Jun 2, 2004 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:45 AM
  #2  
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Artistictouch
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code 33 and 133...

your truck should throw a code known as 133 an unkown code for all us diy guys. Ford does not give the rights to certain codes for some odd reason, it must have to do with $$$. Code 133 is for the check valve (about $20 to replace) at the rear of your engine. it is either rusted shut or cracked. I have this problem with my bronco at the moment and just can't seem to find time to fix it let alone reach it behind the upper intake manifold. The check valve dumps excess air at warm-up and hard throttle to the catalytic converters. Get a code reader at wal*mart for $24 and see what codes it throws. hope this helps.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 01:12 PM
  #3  
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djjoshuad
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or just head to AutoZone and get it checked for free :-)

-Josh
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 01:17 PM
  #4  
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ChargerFan
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Mine has a somewhat similar problem. Most of what I've read leads me to think a vacuum leak but I can't find one anywhere. Besides checking the vacuum lines, also check where your EGR is bolted to the TB. Mine had a leak there. Just replaced the gasket. Also, someone posted recently about the upper plenum gasket was leaking. Use either a stethescope or throttle body cleaner spray(?){or maybe something not quite so flammable} to see if it pulls air somewhere. I'm sure others will post that might be more specific.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 05:09 PM
  #5  
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Smile thank you for the advice

I appreciate you all piping in to help out. I'll keep you posted if these work.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:43 PM
  #6  
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Cheggie
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I had a similar issue

I had a similar issue, with wavering idle on start up, near stall them recovery. It wanted to stall when put in reverse. On my truck it was also aggravated by short blips of the throttle - like when moving slow in traffic. It would rev normally then nearly die out before the idle stabilized. Normal cruise was fine. Even though I didn't pull any codes for this, I replaced the MAP sensor and it seems to have fixed it. I think this is one of those that can fail partially and not set a code. Because of the connection of fluctuating vacuum conditions to the idle quality, I took a guess - but I was right!!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 01:03 AM
  #7  
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Cheap Monster
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From: Orlando, FL
Good grief, you've thrown some money at that. Do the cheap things first. Check vacuum, check codes, check TPS, grab some carb cleaner clean the IAC and then use it to spray around intake gasket surfaces like said above to check for leaks.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 06:53 AM
  #8  
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fcarruth
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Just a quick note: do NOT use carb cleaner on your TB because it will eat the coating on the throttle plates and will start sticking from time to time. Use a TB cleaner at any auto parts store or even Wally World.

Good luck,
 
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 12:29 AM
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I had an intermittent no start/stall problem and on my 86 302 it was the EEC relay (feeds power to the computer). Hasn't given me any problem since I replaced the relay. It didn't throw any codes. Also, long shot but cheap: fuel pump relay.
 
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