I got another box out of a 65 3/4 ton going into a 66 1/2 ton....are these same units ??? Both are 2wd and armstrong steering type....I tried calling parts store about pitman arm interchange which is my main concern and as usual their books dont go back that far.

Any help is greatly appreciated Thanks, cs65

 

Yes, they should interchange. The Hollander Manual shows a #767 manual steering box interchange is 65-69 F100, F250, & F350 manual boxes are the same.

 

This is inclusive of the pitan arm as well?? Thanks for the help....nothing scarier than a wheel you can turn nearly half a revolution with no movement on the ground.


Thanks, cs65

 

I cannot help you on the pitman arm. It does not give an interchange in the Hollander. Can you use your original one? If not, I would try to get some measurements and see if they match up.

 

there doesnt seem to be anything wrong with either the donor box with arm(3/4 ton) or the one on truck(1/2 ton)...I would rather break it apart where pitman goes to R tie rod.

Thanks, cs65

 

There is no difference between the pitman arms, or center link rod either for that matter,between F100 & F250 up to 6990#GVW for sure. I believe there is no difference in pitman arms through F350, and all manual steering boxes are thr same as noted above.

Having said this, incorrect disassembly of the pitman arm from steering box will cause damage. It takes a puller and it requires the arm be stabilized so as to prevent torque (created from trying to loosen/ tighten large nut on the sector shaft) from damaging the sector shaft bearings, seal, and other internal parts of the Strg Box.

When I swap steering boxes I do not R&R the pitman arm because it's too much of a hassle. If for some reason I must remove the Pitman arm I Use a Vise, an Impact Wrench and correct Puller for the Job. I do not know the tool# off the top of my head, but it's in the OEM Factory Service & repair Manual.

FBp

 

I agree with you 100% FBP, its a major hassle, Ive never pulled one, but it looks like one of those things you only pull if you are rebuilding the box itself which Im not.....This replacement is as good as day one....barebones minimal slop in it...unreal as the truck has/had either 42K or 142K, I am inclined to 142K after seeing the cylinder ridges and valves unless someone just ran it way too hard.

I too am inclined to think the pitman is the same, I just dont wanna get the old one out and get a major heartbreak....The donor has a 7500# front end BTW.


Thanks, cs65

 

I must most respectfully disagree with my good friend Ford Boy Pete.

I found that the pitman arm from my '66 manual steering box would not fit the out-put shaft of a '69/'70 Bendix PS box, nor that of a '76 (Ford-Saginaw) PS box. Also, the Bendix pitman arm would not fit the '76 Ford PS box.

All three had uniquely sized holes for the PS box output shaft.

However, all three pitman arms did fit my '66 F-100 linkage, and they all fit the linkage from the '76 F-150, so the tapered hole for the linkage is the same for all three.

This is not to say that there may be some interchangeability to which my experience did not conform, but this is what I found.

Mostl likely, my disagreement is based upon confusion (on my part, of course) about what FBP intended to say about interchangeability.

 

Now I WILL agree that removing the pitman arm is a special task. I have found it is actually easier to remove it on the truck, but that is because I do not have a strong vise.

By the way, under no circumstances should screwdrivers or chisels be used in an attempt to "wedge" the pitman arm off the PS box! I have seen others do this, with seal and shaft failures down the road. Spend the 20 bucks to buy the puller if you can't "rent" one from AutoZone.

I remove the linkage first, if necessary. However, to provide stability to remove the pitman arm, I push the drag link stud back into the pitman arm end, and screw the nut down finger tight. (If changing the box out, but not changing the pitman arm, this step is unnecessary unless you are R/R-ing linkage components.)
Next, I remove the nut.
I loosen the PS box mounting bolts. You have to move the box to the inside of the truck about 1/2 inch to get enough room for the puller. Loosen them just enough to get the puller in place.
Remove the pitman arm, and remove the box.
Installation of the pitman arm on the new box doesn't require the clearance necessary to remove it. Just put the pitman arm on the shaft, make sure it is on correctly, and use the nut to draw it up tightly.

 

Banjopicker,
I'm not saying the pitman arm will change between boxes, I'm saying boxes & pitman arms as an assembly will change between production years. So will most center links.
Last paragraph I say "When swapping steering box I do not R&R (change) Pitman arms because it's too much of a hassle." I still stand by that. I've bolted a lot of manual Strg boxes in with pitman arm on them that came on them.

I am against swapping pitman arms for the very reasons you state. Damage from not having the right equipment & techniques to do it......

I do know the heavier model is slightly different then the lighter models and the break point is the 6990 lb., F250, chassis.

FBp

 

Ah, so I did misunderstand. Thanks for the clarifications, I do appreciate it.

It seems that we are in violent agreement!

 

Actually BP66,

I didn't write that very clearly. Brain going faster than fingers again.

I knew what I meant & was tryin' to say. . the Pitman arms fit Centerlink fairly universally below 6990# ceiling & quite often above it where manual steering is concerned.

You're aboslutely correct, Bendix-Thompson-Saginaw definitely, positively and frustratingly DO NOT INERCHANGE on Pitman Shafts of various other steering boxes. Mainly, that's one more good reason why I don't change them.

If & when salvage yard has a box with a damaged pitman arm, or without one I tend to pass on it, unless I know for sure box I'm getting is identical to one I'm removing. Sort of a "fail safe logic" from experience I guess!.

SOoooo. Agree again We DO!

BTW: THANX for keeping me inline anyway BP I do 'preciate your caring, Man!

FBp

 

Does any one know the name and or part # for the small bearing that goes at the end of the steering Worm shaft in the Re-Circulating Ball Type steering box of a manual steering 1963
f-100.In the manual I have it calls it the lower bearing.And if i can find this part does it just sit down there at the end of the shaft in the box or is it pressed in?When i took it apart it was just sitting down there in the grease.And a few of the ball bearings had fallen out.I think this is most of my troubles with the steering on this truck. The rest of the box is pretty tight.There does seem to be some kind of race in the box on the pitman arm side where the sector shaft exits the box. And I think I might as well replace that while im in there.Does anyone know how I can safely remove and install a new one.Oh and a couple more things things.When reinstalling the Sector Shaft in the box where should the steering wheel position be and how should the gears from the sector shaft line up with the gears on the Ball Nut.And how do you know when the end of the shaft is tight enough in that lower bearing. Any help would be great. Thanks Jeff Goldberg

 

Jeff, I do not know the # off the top of my head, but I do know the 4 small bolts that hold top on box, where worm shaft goes up to wheel, adjust lower bearing seat tension
and it does not "press on". It's a slip fit.

ALso it is the same bearing as used on Falcon -Fairlane - Comet - Mustang - Cougar and others having the Ross solid one-piece box & column found in F Series through 64.
THe number should be visible along the edge of the outer race out of your box, look hard.
FBp

 

After looking in my handy dandy master illus book, for the manual gear it shows the basic number as 3571 for the bearing and 3552 for its race. And knowing Ford number setup, it would most likely be something like a C3TZ....the Z is a service part.


Hope this sheds some light on things....cs65