A/C Sound
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A/C Sound
First of all, I'd like to say that I'm new here to the boards, so you should cut me some slack on the rediculous questions I ask 
.
My 1989 Bronco II XL makes a noise when the A/C is on, that is noticeably different than the normal idling noise. This is probably a normal noise, but I don't know enough about cars to know for sure. Just wondering if you guys could help me out.
Thanks,
Lee
.My 1989 Bronco II XL makes a noise when the A/C is on, that is noticeably different than the normal idling noise. This is probably a normal noise, but I don't know enough about cars to know for sure. Just wondering if you guys could help me out.
Thanks,
Lee
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I'll start it up when I get home and listen to it more carefully, and get back to you. But I can tell you that its a buildup (lots of air noise), then something clicks and and the noise decreases. I'd say its every 5 seconds this happens.
Lee
Lee
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From: Perry,Ga.
Sounds like your ac compressor,the one that are used on Rangers and BII in the 80s and early 90s are know to make some noise when they get some age on them.
The ckicking you here is the AC clutch engagine/turning on the compressor
.JMO Oh yea wWelcom to
The ckicking you here is the AC clutch engagine/turning on the compressor .JMO Oh yea wWelcom to
Last edited by GrayRanger4x4; May 27, 2004 at 08:20 PM.
Tuned
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From: 13th Colony
If the noise is a constant popping, or clicking sound, I believe that is what the fluid dynamics world calls cavitation. It is when air bubbles form around the inside of the pump. The freon is shifting from a gas to a liquid state and vice versa. I believe that the design of the pump impellors as well as the velocity at which it pumps the fluid thru the system determines how bad the cavitation and noise is. Apparently, Ford has the same problem with the power steering pump. I say problem, it is just inherent in the design. I think that may be why it makes that noise that it does when you are turning. That is normal for most a/c 's. Mine has been doing that ever since I got it back in 96.
Tuned
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From: 13th Colony
You may need to add a little freon. Low freon will increase the cavitation or noise in the system. You can get something called Freeze 12 which is a direct replacement for r12 if your sys has not converted to r134a. Freeze 12 can be added on top of your factory r12 . I think you can get it at Napa, not sure where else.
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Tuned
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From: 13th Colony
uhhhhh, noooooooooo! Running the A/C probably pulls 10-20 hp. I remember on my 85' Honda Accord, I would push the a/c button to turn the a/c off on acceleration and it felt almost like turbo boost. Of course when the car has 87 hp and you take 10-20 away, that is pretty sad. The a/c is more noticeable on lower hp engines. A higher hp engine is really not very noticeable unless you are taking off fast alot. I can't even tell it is on on my 2000 crown vic. I imagine if I was going for a 0-60 time, I could tell a significant difference on my time.
Tuned
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From: Austin
uh, if you are stalling in 1st, you have something wrong with your engine.
Tuned
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From: 13th Colony
I say engine, I mean engine controls. When you turn the A/C on, the computer is suppose to know that and boost the fuel to compensate to maintain a good idle. The computer also senses difference in intake manifold vacuum (ie. map sensor). When the vacuum drops at idle, it is also to make changes. When putting it in gear, it should sense the drop in vacuum and adjust accordingly. I also have had a problem with my BII. But my problem came when slowing to stop, or putting it in park. Seemed a little fuel injector cleaner solved that problem. I mostly run high octane now, and it never stalls. Simply starting back up and driving away is not fixing a problem, it is living with it.