Hood Hinges
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Pretoria, South Africa
Hood Hinges
Hi Guys
On my 66 F100 the hood does not want to close properly. It seems as if the springs do not pull the hood down into position at the rear ie. near the cab. I have seen the same thing on other later model F series trucks too. I have tried to fix the problem by reducing the amount of play on the hinges but the hood still does not want to close properly. Has anyone had the same problem and managed to fix it?
On my 66 F100 the hood does not want to close properly. It seems as if the springs do not pull the hood down into position at the rear ie. near the cab. I have seen the same thing on other later model F series trucks too. I have tried to fix the problem by reducing the amount of play on the hinges but the hood still does not want to close properly. Has anyone had the same problem and managed to fix it?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
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From: East Central Florida
I will second Johns reply, and add I'll unanimous consent!
Especially the part about OIL as opposed to grease. I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil which is a light machine grade oil. Synthetic oils are great too, ans so are silicones BUT. . . .Any/ All silicone used will dysaffect future painting or repainting efforts if silicone gets on the painted surfaces from over-spray or spill
Lube hinges at all pivots, lube hood safety & main latches, same with door hinges & latches, seat adjuster trax, and Tail Gate pivots. Lubed hinges last nearly for ever and unlubed hinges fail after time.
Prevention is easier and cheaper than cure and/ or replacement.
FBp
Especially the part about OIL as opposed to grease. I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil which is a light machine grade oil. Synthetic oils are great too, ans so are silicones BUT. . . .Any/ All silicone used will dysaffect future painting or repainting efforts if silicone gets on the painted surfaces from over-spray or spill
Lube hinges at all pivots, lube hood safety & main latches, same with door hinges & latches, seat adjuster trax, and Tail Gate pivots. Lubed hinges last nearly for ever and unlubed hinges fail after time.
Prevention is easier and cheaper than cure and/ or replacement.
FBp
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Lot of good advice. May want to run a search on the topic for additional info. If recall, not too long ago the issue came up in this forum and a number of members provided some suggestions they found for correcting the problem.
good luck,
dave
good luck,
dave
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
The reason the hood pops up in the back is because of the wear in the pivots of the hinges. If you were to remove the springs and close the hood, it will lay flat.
The springs are under tremendous pressure with the hood close because the hinges actually extend the springs in the closed position.
Unfortunatly, lack of lubrication and incorrect lubes will attract dirt and work its way into the joints. This wears out the pivots and the rivets.
Some can be tightened up by heating the rivets with a torch and compressing the rivets to tighten up the side to side slop, but others, those with the holes wallowed out, may require replacement as the rivets may not expand enough during compression to fill the void. Since now the hinge would appear to be tight, the springs would still take up the slack and pop up the rear of the hood.
The server is busy at the moment, but a search on hood hinge in the 61-66 forum will help you find the thread.
The springs are under tremendous pressure with the hood close because the hinges actually extend the springs in the closed position.
Unfortunatly, lack of lubrication and incorrect lubes will attract dirt and work its way into the joints. This wears out the pivots and the rivets.
Some can be tightened up by heating the rivets with a torch and compressing the rivets to tighten up the side to side slop, but others, those with the holes wallowed out, may require replacement as the rivets may not expand enough during compression to fill the void. Since now the hinge would appear to be tight, the springs would still take up the slack and pop up the rear of the hood.
The server is busy at the moment, but a search on hood hinge in the 61-66 forum will help you find the thread.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
Marnus,
If Krosati's right [& he usually is] it's possible to drill out your old rivets, get grade #8, or A&N grade bolts and redrill the rivet holes after realigning them on the work bench or in your vise, to fit the bolt shank diameters.
By doing this & using Aircraft or A&N style, stainless steel, "Nylock" nuts/flat washers you can make it so pivot friction is adjustable. Plus the stuff looks neat in my opinion. Just make sure to position bolts/ heads or shanks so they clear as hinge arms by-pass as it opens & closes.
It takes a little effort & work, but it beats searching for hinges, or paying too much for worn hinges you may buy. I haven't done this on a Slick yet but I've used this procedure on other projects. It worked out great, plus my Clients were happy too. It looks sort of "trick" to other "techno", or "machine/ gear heads" such as ourselves.
FBp
If Krosati's right [& he usually is] it's possible to drill out your old rivets, get grade #8, or A&N grade bolts and redrill the rivet holes after realigning them on the work bench or in your vise, to fit the bolt shank diameters.
By doing this & using Aircraft or A&N style, stainless steel, "Nylock" nuts/flat washers you can make it so pivot friction is adjustable. Plus the stuff looks neat in my opinion. Just make sure to position bolts/ heads or shanks so they clear as hinge arms by-pass as it opens & closes.
It takes a little effort & work, but it beats searching for hinges, or paying too much for worn hinges you may buy. I haven't done this on a Slick yet but I've used this procedure on other projects. It worked out great, plus my Clients were happy too. It looks sort of "trick" to other "techno", or "machine/ gear heads" such as ourselves.
FBp
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