I've got the hood hinges installed, but find myself unable to push down on the upper arm to simulate the hood closing (has something to do with the way the links interact). All the pivots seem loose, but I don't want to have to force the hood to close (again.) How can I exercise the linkage and springs to simulate the hood closing to make sure that the hood can come down smoothly and easily?

-Scott '53 F100

 

I'm dealing with hood hinges as well. I've come to understand that the hood hinges work this way: 1) they hold the hood up when it's in the open position, but also 2) pivot through a point where they acually place a downward pressure on the hood to make it close snuggly. I do not think it's possible to push the hinge arms down to simulate a closed hood without fabricating a piece that keeps the arm pivot holes in proper alignment and spacing. And, if such a piece was fabricated and installed, pushing the hinges down to their closed position could be a hairy proposition, in that (I think) when the hinge arms push about 75% of the way down, the spring force begins working the other way. It might close with a snap. Watch your fingers if you try this..

I think that the way to adjust the hinges is to install them with the hood and fenders, etc., all in place. Close the hood, and the hinge arms move to the position where they are working to keep the hood snug. At this point, the hinge mounts at the cab can be loosened up, and the hinges will move to a position where the geometry of the arms is optimal as far as having the hinges work to keep the hood snug. My understanding is that for the hinges to work properly, all bolts realted to the hinges have to be tight. I'm assuming that loose arms will adversely affect the way the hinge functions. That's where I am right now...hoping that new or better hinges will finally make my own hood close properly.

Lastly, I may not know what I'm talking about. I'm basing my understanding of the hinges on my own observations, which are based on staring at my own worn hinges, observing the way the hood closes when the hinges are positioned differently, and recollecting posts on this subject. Good luck, and if you get a system for installing your hinges so that he hood closes the way it did when the truck was new, please post it.

 

Just a note: I recently was reading (not sure where) but if your hood won't go all the way down at the rear, its helpful to adjust the front hood latch forward. Something to do with the closing load as JVMCC stated.
Mike

 

You can't move just one arm they must move together. The easiest way to simulate the hood is to drill two holes in a piece of bar stock the same distance apart as the hood location. Bolt the hinge arms to the bar and swing the bar throught the arc of the hood. Better still is to throw the hinges away and front hinge the hood!

 

I think that jvmcc has the right information. The mechanism is known as an "over-center mechanism". It passes a over a center point in travel of the linkage and then pulls the opposite direction. In other words, the springs hold the hood up, but when pulled down past a point, the springs pull the hood down.

My question on these hoods, is has anyone found a modification that can be done to make them open farther? Another 10-20 degrees would really help, especially near the firewall.

 

Before these beasts became "Classic Trucks" and were used for farming or work adjusting the hood was alot easier.

WE JUST JUMPED ON THE DAMN THING!!!.

 

Got the hood so that I have about a 3/16" reveal from the cowl and it's about level with the cowl (new hood-cowl seal probably takes care of that.) I still have to push down on the two sides of the back of the hood for the last 1.5" - the over the center mechanism doesn't seem to be working.

Questions:

Can I move the hinges in some direction to help the back of the hood close better?

What type of washers if any were used between the hinge arm and the hood to stablize the hood on the arms?

The shop manual is not clear as to how to address the vertical and side to side movement of the hood relative to the fenders, but my take was this. Use the fender stay rods to adjust the side to side movement of the sheet metal to center the hood. Then use the hood stay rods to twist the hood so both edges line up with the fenders at the same time.

Comments, help?

-Scott

 

Hi Scott

I spent many hours trying to get my hood to work right (new hinges and springs) I still have to push down the back corners but when its down it fits pretty well

if you get to this stage I suggest you live with it and learn to do the hood hokey pokey (search previous posts for details)

Mid fifty supply wavy type spring washers to go between the hinges and the hood

There is some adjustment using the stay rods but I had to adjust the front end sheet metalwork to fit the hood

The rubber spacers that fit into the fenders and the hood latch mechanism also play a part

Good luck

Stephen

 

I am in the UK and have a 1955 F100, which I am in the process of rebuilding and modifying. I am at the part where you build it up before the tear down to paint.

I hoped when I saw this posting that you would have the answer to my Hood fitting problems... Guess they dont fit or work to well, I wondered if there was suposed to be a washer of some kind that fits between the hinge and the hood. I have tried the bolts loose and tight both ways the rear of the hood stays up worse so when the bolts were tight.

I thought buying new hinges would cure the hood Hokey Kokey.... oh no that would be to easy ;o)

I will try and source some of them wavy spring washers in the Uk as they will help I am sure, I cant expect mid fifty to just send me just some of them to the Uk can I ;o)

So I guess the answer to the Hood fitting problems is there is no answer, well unless you fit the rear opening Kit and thats a bit expensive to get for me... I will keep coming back hopeing someone does say Hey guys you do it like this ;o) Thanks!

 

Try moving the latch mechanism on the latch panel forward (towards the grill) That may help.

 

Hi Holmsey,

There are a few of us now in the UK on here. I have not yet got to sorting my hood out. I am at the bare rolling chassis stage at teh moment. But when it was together I definately had the smae issues.

When I was looking for an effie I saw quite a few. One that I looked at a 53 had the stock hinges on it but the owner had removed the springs and just used an standard rod to hold the hood up. This seemed to work pretty well, as the hood came up easily from the front. Although I am not sure how this would work when moving around as the hinge springs also hold the hood shut as well as holding it open.
I hahe some pics somewhere of this truck I could dig out.

Cheers
Lee

 

Hi Holmsey

Good to see another Brit on here,
Where abouts in the UK are you ? I am in Uxbridge, West London

I dont think the spring washers will make much difference to the way the hood works, they just prevent rattles

Mid Fifty are very helpful with shipping parts to the UK but the postage would be far more than the cost of the parts

I have some I could take to a local fastening supplier to match up if you need them

Cheers

Stephen

 

That is the best solution I have found, I feel your pain, sorry

 

Hi I am in Cumbria NW England. Some of those spring washers would be great Stephen if you get a chance to get some. My e-mail address is holmsey@uk-hotrods.co.uk. Cheers. I was talking to someone else I know today who is a bodyman and he cant get his right so a mere mortal has no chance ;o) He is thinking about making his open from the rear. I will perservere for a while longer with the original hinges.
Holmsey

 

I have witnessed the process you all are talking about. 1. Lower the hood. 2. walk to the pass side and press down that corner. 3. Walk to the driver side and press that corner. It seems like the hood can go where it needs to, but something is holding it back. So how can one persuade it to drop into place like it was originally designed to do? I would experiement with the front latch like AX said. The latch hole acts like a receiver for the hood pin. Moving it forward would stretch out the hood and put a "pull" on the hinges. If a "pull" isn't what is needed, at least find a neutral position where it is not pushing back on the hinges. What would happen if you closed the hood and had no latch in place at all? Just thinking out loud. Jag