Does anyone know why the MAF conv. kit listed in the ford racing catalog says 87-93...but neglects the 94-95s in which some were still SD? I'm wondering if the kit I got is just not going to work with my 95.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work. What I would do is check the pinouts between those model years and make darn sure the wiring all goes to the same pins. Does it run normally if you take the kit off?

 

Well you know my situation so I can quickly explain.

I took my truck to the shop, I know the owner. I told one of his employees which I thought was going to work on my truck the whole speal. I go in a few days later and some other younger guy working on it. For some reason he was playing with the injector wires, he plugged the stock ones back in, Idiot..that aint gonna run like that. Since he had that already done, I told him look I'll go get my SD computer and you mind as well throw it in since it'll only take 5 minutes since you already changed the injector wires. So that was friday..and he called me tonight saying he put it back and it was running ok. I asked him if he drove it and he said no, just from what he could tell moving it around the lot. I have no idea why it would run fine on the SD crap, the MAP sensor is disconnected as well. I asked him if my tach was still bouncing, he said no it sweeps w/ the engine ok. If you remember from my other thread, I mentioned that if u let the truck sit for a few days it'll run ok...so I am wondering if since it's been sitting for the weekend that that is why it's running ok. It doesn't make sense to me at all..and it's really really making me mad. I don't see why the tach would be bouncing irratically if there wasn't a problem in that wiring. ughhhhh i hate this crap.

The kit is for the 87-93..and I figured they just didn't put 94-95 cuz some had MAF and some didn't. Now I'm wondering if there really is a difference and that it isn't running because of that. It doesn't make sense because it ran fine for 2 weeks after the install...and it runs fine if u let it sit for a couple days.

 

mustanggt221
what are you putting the kit in & what kit is it. i will call ford motorsports w/it. i can find out if it is right for your veh. i worked at a shop & can still "stop in" for stuff. yr-make-what maf#

 

I'd be inclined to drive it with the SD computer to see if the problem reappears. If it does, then you know it's not a problem with the swap.

 

Well the SD is in, and the problem is still there. It's still just gargling now. It has a small exhaust leak between the cats, and you never hear it when it was running normal. Now when its running down the road it sounds just like i have a bad exhaust leak, but it's really not a bad leak to cause that noise. It only makes that noise when the engine is running so bad. My tach still bounces a little...I knew it wasn't the MAF from the start.

 

It really sounds like it is ignition related. Have you checked the pickup in the distributor, or the ignition module? Maybe drive it a while and try pulling some codes from the SD computer.

 

It sounds ignition related to me too...esp w/ the tach bouncing. I havn't checked the pickup on the dist or the ignition module...not really familiar with these parts. I assume the pickup on the dist is where the electrical wires connect to it?

 

I was thinking about the hall effect sensor inside the distributor, but it could be something inbetween there and the computer as well.

 

Well after a week of driving it w/ the MAF kit out...it's still running bad and I'm getting no codes out of the computer. This condition isn't changing anymore (its still just a rich sounding gargle of not burning fuel correctly), like it did w/ the MAF. So I take it the MAF kit was trying to adjust for this problem and couldn't (causing the changes in the way hte engine was running)..the SD is just sitting there saying ...wow I'm dumb I can't figure this out so the same amount of fuel is going in anyway.

My tach still bounces sometimes, when it sweeps it's a little irratic (almost like its binding) and if you let the engine wind out when accelerating, it'll become inaccurate after like 2500-3k rpm. I can punch it and let it wind out..and the tach will make it past 5500 even thou the engine is spinning like 4-4500. But when it sweeps along w/ the engine, it's not smooth, and after 3k-ish rpm..it'll push the needle ahead of the engine rpm, making it inaccurate. If you let it idle...the needle will just bounce 50-100 rpm here and there, but the engine is not bouncing w/ the tach. There is nothing wrong with the tach, I know for a fact heh

I duno what to do..its really annoying..it has no power at all lol

After it's warmed up, once you shut it off, you can hear the exhaust hissing..i assume thats from extra fuel/vapors.

 

Do you have another tach you could try to isolate the problem? If the TFI module/distributor is sending an inaccurate signal, the computer might be thrown off as well. You haven't pulled the distributor recently, have you? I would double check that the toothed wheel in the distributor has the small tooth in the hall effect sensor when the rotor is pointing to the number 1 cylinder. Other than that I'd say maybe try to get the TFI module tested, and possibly check out the fuel pressure if you haven't done so already. I know how frustrating this can be, so good luck with it.

 

Fuel pressure should be ok, filter changed and the problem doesn't change after switching tanks, so the pumps are ok. The Tach only bounces when the engine is running bad, those two times I let the truck sit and it ran fine...the tach stopped bouncing...so it only bounces when the engine is running bad, indicating that the tach is ok. I do have another tach I can use...but what would you like me to do with that, test to make sure it's not the tach?

I have never taken out the dist, the only time I've touched it was when changing the cap/rotor/wires.

Toothed wheel in the distributor? You mean the one at the end? I've never taken out a dist and am unfamiliar, I have that MSD pro billet too but I think it has the wrong gear on the end of it, it's the PN8456 model.

 

Well, since the tach only bounces when you have the problem, I agree that it's not the tach. The toothed wheel is what the rotor sits on inside the distributor and is held down by two bolts. I don't think this is your problem since you haven't moved the distributor, and since the problem is intermittent. I'd take a close look at the electronic pickup in the distributor as well as the TFI module and the wiring inbetween. Also check all grounds - a bad ground can cause a host of intermittent problems.

 

You could also check the dialectric grease between the module and the distrubutor. Had a buddy with an irratic running truck and it ended up the grease had dried out causing some of the problems

 

Where exactly is the TFI module...and I don't know where the grounds are.

And what are the little square modules to the left of the coil that go to the injectors...