What should I use to protect the main and rod bearings and cylinder walls when I re-assemble my engine? Would STP work? I am going to use the lube that came with the cam for the valvetrain and cam components. I also will be pre-oiling the motor. I am planning to fill the engine and filter with oil before installing the engine back into the truck. Then priming it while it is easy to get at with the oil pump driveshaft. Once I install it I am going to crank it over without the plugs installed until the pressure comes up. I have not assembled the engine yet. Actually, it's still at the machine shop. Been there since March.

 

I would never use STP..I have torn down to many Chebby motors that ran STP in them...and what a mess! Just use a bearing lube on the cam,mains,and rods,

Use a standard weight oil-30...I think Rat knows who still makes an oil with zinc in it?

And run a WIX filter!! -Russ

 

I've used STP on pistons and cylinders and never had any problems. Always use an assembly lube for the valvetrain and crank journals. Priming the engine before starting is a must. It will show if the oil pump does work and will build oil pressure before starting any engine after a rebuild.

 

Well I have never used STP.. I just wiped the cylinders down with fresh motor oil..

and went with it that way...STP gets hot and it turns into chewing gum..JMHO-Russ

 

Rapid,

STP used on the pistons and cylinder walls for a rebuild is better than plain motor oil. It will minimize damage to cylinder walls, pistons and rings better than plain motor oil can. This ability is especially needed during an engines first startup after being rebuilt. If you have never used it just for a rebuild then don't knock it. I have used it for every engine I have ever built and have never seen this "chewing gum" later on. So, I don't know what you have been looking at. I have however seen piston and cylinder scuffing when plain motor oil was used which is why I don't.

The minute amount of lube on the pistons and cylinders walls will not be there long enough to turn into "chewing gum" on a fresh rebuild. An oil change shortly after a rebuild is needed and will remove any chances of "chewing gum" to form from any type of assembly lube.

 

Just go to your local auto store and get some assembly lube with moly in it. It comes in a big tube and costs like $5. That's the safest IMO.

 

Just my Opinion,,

No Im not going any farther with this... I would like to take a cense on who use's
STP on a rebuild? I maybe wrong and from the old school...

But Im not a complete dummy? LOL... Light weight will coat the walls good enough
Until she's fired...thats when the oil pump take's over...

As soon as you heat STP in the chamber..IT will turn into Sludge!!

And I for one dont want that crap in my engine! But hell if it works for you..Great!

If you like it go for it!! No Flame here... I just dont wont an additive in my oil..Russ

 

Thanks! I guess i'll use assembly lube on the valvetrain/cam and bearing journals. Anybody use anything else for the cylinder walls? BTW: I use STP in every vehicle I have. No problems. When I rarely have to pull a valve cover or oil pan they are always very clean and a light grey with very little sludge. But I change my oil between 2500-3000 miles also and run a hot/stock thermostat. My thinking behind using STP was this: I drain all of my oil bottles into a larger container after I dump them in the engine at an oil change. Use it in my squirt can. Got this from my dad. Within a couple days the oil bottles are almost bone dry. The STP bottle always has a skim of oil left after the same amount of time. I figured it would cling better and have a thicker film of lubricant since it will be a couple days in between assembly and firing it up. My main concern is the cylinder walls. Pre-oiling with the pump doesn't help the cylinder walls. But with all the time and money i've put into this thing I wanted to get some input from you guys. Keep the suggestions coming.

 

I would just use a standard 30w like rapid said, thats what I do and it works fine. Just keep the bearing lube were it belongs and the oil were it belongs and you will be fine.

 

I know an engine builder in Calgary that mixes STP with 20w50 for his general assembly lube.
He used to run Top Alcohol Funny cars. Maybe he trusts the stuff.

 

BMW makes an oil for their motorcycles that contains high leverls of zinc and other additives that help cut down on wear..

 

Valvoline Racing oils contain zinc. Double check the newest MSDS to make sure this is still true. Regular assembly lube is all you need. I wouldn't put an STP product in my lawnmower. Break it in with straight 30W just like Randy and the other guys were saying and then choose your oil to stick with after about 500 miles. If it ain't broke in by then you aren't going to get it to break in.

 

I do know that if you mix synthetic lubricants of any type and conventional oils they will create a sludge in engines. This point has been studied and results of the scientific study are available. Maybe this is what Rapidruss has seen and didn't realize it. All conventional oils turn to sludge under extreme heat, including STP.

A film of STP does pretty much stay where you put it unlike motor oil which runs off before the next startup (a well known fact). The idea being confused is that a huge amount of STP is being used and that is totally wrong! The correct process is to apply a thin film of it on cylinder walls, pistons and rings. This thin film out performs motor oil for protection in a fresh built engine during start up. Just like you shouldn't use motor oil for the bearings and journals, you should use something else on the above mentioned. I don't use STP as a regular oil additive and never have. I only use it for engine assembly. It works for this application very well! I don't know how it holds up as a regular oil additive because I never have. I personally know of people who have and never made any effort to say they don't like STP. I get mixed responses about every oil and additive known to man. Which one of them is correct? I don't know and I don't think any of us are an authority on the subject. I do however choose different types and then I see how they work for me and stick with the ones that I have success with.

This board doesn't represent the majority, so any attempt to use it as a proving ground for anyone's personal opinion and to discount other's is irrelevent. Quoting an athority is paramount to all other statements including the majority here.

I can give first hand accounts of how my rebuilds compared to factory built engines after a comparable lifetime of normal maintenance and wear. There weren't any differences in crankcase buildup. These are my experiences and opinions. Take em or leave em.

Rapid, Stop with your cursing and ranting. It really discounts your credibility. You must feel immune to Moderator action against you.

 

Well I dont see any where were he is ranting or cursing , he is just stating his opinions as he has said in 2 out of 3 of his post, and he hasnt offered any smart remarks in his post either so I don't see were any "immunity to moderators or whatever" apply here. Lets not flame Rapid here. He has givin some very good advice on this board and seems to be a pretty nice guy who told his experiances. And thats my Opinion.

 

Purely..

I am going to keep this very civil...just because I didnt agree with you..Doesnt make you right or wrong..All I said was.... I-Me-Myself....In my Dealing with engines..I have known people who have used STP...and I prefer not too...

End Of Story...No Flaming...Just Russ