Hi. I have a '66 F-100 with light rust in the bed, some specs on the body, and underneath. I'm wondering what the best thing is to do to get rid of the rust now, before it gets worse, and what to do to prevent it from coming back. Will a paint job do the trick? Should I get a bed liner or cover? Unfortunately, I have to keep it parked outside. Let me know if you have any advice.

Thanks,

 

Ive ised transmission oil sprayed with an air compressor "cleaner" wand on old trucks. I soaked the springs frame and anything else I could reach to get a few years of rust delay.
it isnt clean.... but it seemed to slow the decay. not to mention losen a few rusted parts.

my cusin used to do this with frames and parts cars he was storing in the backyard, he claimed it worked... Seems to me they rust anyway.

not to mention the oil is pretty messy, what with dust and dirt sticking to it.
I hesitate to do it to the 65 I have now, so far I just sprayed the whole thing with cheap penatrating oil, which seems to evaporate and the metal ends up dry again.

Ive read "kroil" is great to do this with, but I have a can and it STINKS. At least ATF doesnt stink .

this leads to a pain if you have to weld anything.... my old chebby i had "oiled" and had to weld the frame, it took me forever to degrease the spot to make th weld stick.

I suppose, thats a good sign, its good and oily.

still, other guys have told me oil doesnt prevent rust...

Honestly... I dunno anymore. I'm as curious as you are.

 

Ospho is a product the military and ironworkers have used for years. The chemical process that is taking place with rust can only be stopped if you chemically stop it or physically isolate the metal from the air (sand to bare metal and prime and topcoat. Visit this website to see if this product will work for you. Other FTE posts mention Ospho.

http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm

 

RalieghDad 66 is right on!

First, 2nd law of thermodynamics is "Organization of structure degenerates/ decays into chaos, in time chaos degenerates/ decays into orginazition" Although this is true the organization chaos becomes over time is never the same organiztion it was in the first place. In other words iron based ferrous metals are an organized structure of metal crystals. When 02 or H2-0 are introduced it decays into what we call rust by a process we call corrosion (by oxidation). When oxygen/ water have finished we have iron oxide, Fe-03, aka rust. It is an "organized" chemical compound in nature, but not a metal structure anymore. This means the conversion of ferrous metal to iron oxide must be interrupted, and then stopped or degeneration/ decay will continue. Decay is a natural dynamic in time on this carbon-oxygen based planet, period.

Ospho chemically combines with ferrous oxide (Fe 03) to form an oxygen impervious, metal based, protective, barrier so Ospho converts rust, into a barrier against rust. It does this on a molecular level. It is old, organicly based, proven technology. It deals in and on the dynamic of oxygen base corrosion of ferrous metals on the primary level.
Another strong market for Ospho is Off Shore Oil Rigs in the Ocean. After treating with Ospho, surfaces should be prepped for paint' then sealed with a good finish. My Idea of a good finish starts with epoxy primer-sealer.

Most primers are primer-surfacers and you do not want that for the substrate coat. The epoxy primer-sealer is non porous, air & moisture impervious. IMHO it is the very absolute, best, base for an automotive, or any ferrous metal finish. Body fillers like the hi build primer-surfacers, or polyesther compounds such as Bondo-Pay Day feather fill and so forth actually bond better to the epoxy primer sealer than to bare metal.

Epoxy primer sealer can be scuffed & painted. If show quality is your deal they can be shot with sandable primer surfacers and then painted for a finer, smoother, deeper finish. Besides quality finishes using BC/CC or BC/IC/CC paint systems that rival the old hand rubbed cellulose lacquers of old, the epoxy-multi stage-clear coat finishes will absolutely stop & prevent oxidation when done the way I describe.

There are some companies around which sell "magic bullet" chemicals they claim will STOP rust. According to the American Society of Corrosion Engineers [ASCE] these so called rust stopping compounds such as the acryllic, resin & epoxy based compounds do not stop oxidation, they only encapsulate it. The encapsulation does not stop rust either, although it does slow it down considerably.

Encapsulation only stops 02 & H2-0 & other oxidants from reaching metal (which also is what Epoxy Primer Sealer above does) But By applying Ospho 1st the process stops.
AND phosphoric acid in Ospho turns oxygen damaged molecules and metal crystals into that effective impervious barrier of metal based protective material mentioned above.

Having given all this long explanation so far, most if not all magic potions, and magic bullet compounds require more money to be spent, with them to make a coating that's slowing corrosion down, suitable to paint over. So there's an additional layer or added thicknes. What one must remember is once paint or other finishes over metal get more than 10 or 12 mils thick they're gonna crack and "gator hyde" with age & elements.

Oh yeah FWIW, POR products generate isocyanates if used in any humidity at all.
Iso's have been likned with several types of injury to human organ and nerve tissue. If you reject all I said here & opt for POR be sure to protect yourself against Isocyanate generation and its' ingestion which leads to tissue damage. Ask for an MSDS from POR.

Hope all this helps
FBp

 

Have seen the topic come up alot in the 'body and paint' forum. May want to review. Have used a number of the various products. Currently trying out product read about in the 'body and paint' forum called 'zero rust'. Too early to tell, but so far pleased with the results.

Good luck,
dave

 

FordBoypete, I have a quick question. You stated that POR products generate some harmful isocyanates if used in any type of humidity. Does this apply only to the application process, or at any time after application? The reason I ask is that I have recently bought enough POR-15 to cover my frame and cab/bed underside. I live in Albuquerque so humidity shouldn't be a problem right now, but who knows where I'll end up in a couple of years?

 

Thank you all for your replys. And, Fordboypete - wow, what great information. Are you a professor? I'm not planning to do the job myself. You don't know of an outfit in the Seattle area that would do the job as you described, do you? Worth asking. In any case, thanks again for all the time you spent helping me out. I really appreciate it.

 

T2,
Only during the curing process. If you see the stuff start to grow bubles as it cures that's what it will be producing. Get away from it & vent the area. Keep kids & pets away too

Also it is harder to remove than to apply, or to paint over. Several of us have had big problems trying to get a decent paint job over POR products, even with their own primer coat. POR hardens like old Imron paint does. It chips off like porcelin after it ages too. And you can't or probably shouldn't weld or MIG it. It burns and I'm not sure what's in burned POR fumes....

Brock,
I am a retired college instructor, but I also was painting show cars in 60's with nitro-cellulose Lacquers & old enamels. I'd build stuff on the side. At one point I'd build anything for anyone who had money to pay for it. No more tho.

Sorry, I do not know any shops in Seattle area. But I tell ya what, Ospho processing & Epoxy Primer sealer as a substrate coat would be the way I'd do a resto or "re-do" in your climate. Plus it is a good reason to avoid POR too. I would wager any Good to Better Quality Shop is probably already doing their jobs the way I described.

I will get my clients to ospho their vehicles a couple of times , starting a week or 2 before they're scheduled to drop them off at my place for work. Also whenever I buy something and it has signs of rust, even slight rust I treat it several times right after I get it. It may sit a year with Ospho on it B4 I get to it, but it doesnt seem to rust anymore, at least undercover.

Check this out http://www.psrc.usm.edu.macrog/foamsyn.htm It explains how Iso's form and why. It's interesting and good to know especially if you have a lot of respect for Isocyanates! They're discussing Polyurethane Foam. But know this, when POR forms bubbles I mentioned, that foaming is essentially what's up, polyurethane compounds & moisture.

FBp

 

I have treated and painted the entire chassis and underside of my truck with por 15. I did all the work outside for ventilation.
The results look great. The chassis looks like show room and it is much easier to wash off dirts and oils.
I too am thinking about covering the bed with por 15. It is much cheaper than lining right now.
Good luck.

 

Im in Seattle area....I have heard there is a resto shop in SoDo area....down by that hideous football stadium....Ill look the name up and send it to ya....


cs65

 

Camperspecial65 -

Man, if you could get the name of the shop in the Sodo area, I would be most appreciative! Thanks

 

Brock 7:

Did you ever find that shop in SoDo? I've got a 66 F-250 that needs some rust work. Appreciate any help ... thanks.

 

No. He hasn't got back to me yet. Are you in Seattle? I'll let you know if he does. In the meantime, if you're here and want to talk - let me know. Later, man.

 

I'm in Bellevue .. let me know how to contact you.

Steve

 

Hi Gehrig. Go ahead and click on my name (Brock 7); then click on "send e-mail to Brock 7". Your e-mail message will be sent directly to my e-mail, and we can go from there. Looking forward to it.