Man, you guys know your stuff.
I have a 2000 PSD, crew, 4X4, longbed... stock, 65,000miles.
I live in Alaska, cool temps, but will head to the lower 48 during summers for 1 month/year during hot season towing a 7500# travel trailer.
Question... also, will any of this blow my 100,000 coverage?
1. Should I upgrade to a Tymar intake and bigger DP (I'm hearing a lot about 4") and upgrading the rest of the exhaust?

2. Chip or programmer? Tranny gauge if so?

3. I guess my question revolves around towing for a month out of the year in hotter weather to gain better towing performance.
4. Should I switch to synthetics (engine, rear/front ends, tranny) and will that affect my 100,000 coverage?

All information would be greatly appreciated.
One more thing, is there a way to see if my fuel filter is bad/good? I don't know when it was last changed and just bought a new one but haven't replaced it.
Thanks..

 

i can tell you that you can boost up your truck as much as you want in many areas to get better towing performance but i dont live in alaska so i cant say what the result would be in cold conditions. i would upgrade intake and get ride of that stock air box, defiently do that. the best thing for your diesel is to get more air to it. defiently do exhaust as this will help your turbo spool up quicker giving you more power. i would definetly do those things if i were you but i cant really help you with the rest of your questions. hope this helps

 

1. Good Product- but voids warranty. Exhaust I'm unsure

2. Chip or programmer - voids warranty. Tranny guage - No, its OK


3. N/A

4. Should be OK, as long as the synthetic oil meets the FORD specs.

 

Great, thanks! What exhaust does no woid warantee?

 

Technically any aftermarket product that "modifies" the Ford design will void the warranty if it causes damage.

1. As long as you leave the cat in place (if you have one) you shouldn't run in to any problems with warranty. The wastegate will prevent the turbo from overboosting which is the main "warranty concern" as far as Ford is concerned with larger exhaust systems. The Ford AIS air intake will flow more air and since it's a Ford part won't screw up your warranty. The Tymar air intake has lower restriction because of it's open element design, but both the AIS and Tymar use Donaldson filters which are top notch.

2. Gauges are a must if you want to run a chip or programmer. Yes, a chip or programmer can void your warranty if it causes damage. Count on Ford blaming any aftermarket part for engine failure if you have anys sort of general engine failure.

3. For better towing performance you definately should consider upgrading those items in #1. #2 will also help with more power and I repeat, gauges are a must!

4. I personally recommend running synthetics in at least everything except the engine oil. The engine oil is a matter of personal preference. I don't like the idea of extending oil drain intervals (another warranty issue by the way) because there will still be some fuel in the oil. Even if you run a bypass filter, there will fuel that gets into the oil. I change mine by the book, 3K for heavy service and 5K for normal service. Sythetic oil is great if you can swallow the cost of oil changes.

5. The fuel filter. I recommend changing immediately just so you can keep track of it from day 1. (See procedure below)

I would also recommend getting some test strips to check the SCA level in the coolant. You can buy them in small numbers HERE. The additive helps prevent cavitation.

Changing the Fuel Filter

Once you have done this once it won't take more than 5 minutes to do. Here's what you do:

1. Open lid/remove plastic cover over fuel bowl (depending on year).

2. Open drain valve (to the left side at the bottom of the bowl) by pushing it to the left (back of the truck). You may want to attach a piece of 5/16" hose to the bottom of the drain so you can avoid a mess.

3. Unscrew the fuel bowl lid. You may need to use tools to loosen the lid, but I can usually get mine by hand. If I need to I can hook up my 1/2" socket wrench to the lid.

4. Remove the old fuel filter and o-ring (from the lid).

5. Close the drain valve on the fuel bowl.

6. This is optional. Fill the fuel bowl about 1/2 way with Standyne Lubricity Formula or a similar product.

7. Install the new o-ring on the lid making sure to follow the instructions for the beveled edge. Lightly coat the new o-ring with fresh diesel fuel.

8. Attach the new fuel filter to the lid.

9. Install the new filter/lid and make sure it is on straight and tight.

10. Turn the key and wait for at least 10 seconds, especially if you didn't add any additive to the fuel bowl. This will allow the fuel bowl to fill before you start the engine.

You can use filters that come attached to the lid, but don't throw your lid away. You may need it if you go back to the other style filter.