Ok, i thought i read somewhere that to see if your fan clutch is shot or not, you just see if you can spin the fan with your hand, if it spins, its shot, if it is difficult to turn, its good. Is this right. I ask because i was playing around under the hood the other day (A/C) and noticed I can spin it pretty freely. Its not difficlut to turn at all. Is this a problem? or should i not worry about it and also taking a closer look at the fan itself, there were cracks on the plastic fan blades and where the blades meet up with the center in alot of areas. Is it ok to have it run like this, or am i looking for trouble?

 

You've caught the problem early enough that you don't have to run right out to buy new parts. Plan on replacing them both before the weather gets really hot. That'll save you any problems.

 

well, its allready starting to get warm, and i've been noticing that my temp guage has been going up into the normal zone, which is abnormal...(harhar). It ususally sits off on the L. I wonder if this means the truck is starting to get too hot and the guage is off, so the truck is really overheating when the guage tells me its normal?

Also, does anyone know where the most common part is of an a/c system to leak? especially in the rangers. I just charged the system and it will probably only last a week

 

Uh... well, before you start worring, this trick doesn't really work on the Ranger fans. You cannot determine if it's bad by just spinning the blades. What you need to do is see if the axis that the fan is mounted too (backs up to the pully) will spin or not. I guess what I am trying to say is that if you were to take the fan out, and hold this axis still, you can spin the blades (doesn't take much force at all).

P.S. Trust me, I just had mine out today when I changed the timing belt in mine.

Stan

 

Your new post came up as I was typing mine...

More than likely, you gauge sets on L because it's not working properly. Mine does the same thing, infact, it will go to the norm. zone, then go back to L, within a mile of each other. It just kinda jumps around.

AC leak, O-rings. If you havent evac. it yet, change all of them. Also, make sure that the bolt holding the lines to the back of the comp. is tight. LOL, I just did my AC last week. The 'ol Ranger has gotten a complete makeover in the last few weeks.

 

i'm thinkin about getting a flex a lite cooling fan anyway, seeing as to how beat up mine is, and i'm all for a little more hp/tq. I was just wondering if i had some time, or if its somthing that if i dont do it soon, will fly apart in my engine compartment, wrecking somthing.

P.s. whats evac. should I let out all of the refidgerant, and then put it all back together with new o rings and fill it up. Also, how do i do this? is there some special thing you have to use, or can you just hold down the valve on the low pressure side? will this get out everything on the high pressure side too?

 

Don't get caught letting the refrigerant out like that. Take it in to a shop & have it removed properly. JMO.
How about investing in a new temp. sender?

 

Ok, I dont like the idea of blowing all that refridgerant all over either. So i just take it into some a/c shop and they should be able to do it right? also, how much do they charge for this? or is it one of those courtesy services where they do it for free cause its bad for the enviroment.

I'm kinda weary about a new temp sending unit, cause i put in a new oil sending unit, and it still doesnt read right. maybe i'll have better luck with a coolant temp sender.
thanks alot for you help dealford, "You da Man" also.
Thanks for your help too traxxis

 

Hey Peter, sorry, I got off right after I made that post...

Um... I am not sure whether or not they will charge you for it, as my system was not pressurized when I started my project (allowing me to jump right in). Being that yours is a 94, I'm sure it's 134a, and so I would imagine that they will charge you for it. If it were r12, maybe they wouldn't (that stuff is like gold), because many of them would be happy to take it cause they can sale it back to the government (I think this is what they do with it). So ya, just take it to any shop that does AC work, and they can do it.

Evac=evacuate- this is when they suck all the refrigerant out, and also when they suck all the air out right before you go to charge it again. Essentially they just pull a tight vacume on it.

Once they evac. it, than take off all of your hoses, you will need a set of spring lock coupling tools to disconect the lines from the condensor and accumulator (I would send you mine to let you use, but it would probably cost more to ship than it would to just go out and purchase a set, about $10). On your condensor, you should have 4 o-rings (two on each nipple). On your accumulator, I think there is just one (between the accu. and the AC hose from the compressor), also, where to accumulator connects to the evaporator, there should be one there too. And for the last one, there will one in the middle of where the evaporator connects to the condensor, there will be a break in that line that you will have to unscrew, and there will be one there too. Also, while changing that one, it would be a good idea to change the orfice tube out too, you can buy the "red" one for about $2, but you can get the auto. adjusting "blue" one for $25 (this is the one I went with), people say that using an auto adjusting one will result in about a 10-15 degree difference, and mine blows pretty cold for 134a.

After you change all the o-rings, start putting everything back together, it also wouldn't hurt to put a little bit of pag oil in the lines just in case it's low (maybe 2 ounces or so, it's only like $5).

Let me know.
Stan