Clearcoatwithout Hardener
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Elder User
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From: MN
Clearcoatwithout Hardener
I picked up my paint today at NAPA. I got acrylic enamel paint, and a sealer primer. I asked if they had a clearcoat that I wouldn't need a hardender for. He said that all clearcoats need a hardner to protect against gas ans solvents. Is this true? Are there any clearcoats out there that would work with my AE paint and not need a harder? Thanks.
As a side question, has anyone used a suction spray gun for auto painting. There is one for sale at the local farm supply chain for a good price. Thanks guys.
As a side question, has anyone used a suction spray gun for auto painting. There is one for sale at the local farm supply chain for a good price. Thanks guys.
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From: Hamilton, ohio
i would recomend the hardener. it protects from rock chips and scratches. they also have some stuff called gravel guard. from what i have heard you do not have to add hardener to it. but i would recomend doing it.
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Silver Springs
It's not required for Acrylic Enamel paint, but according to the Guru's in this other thread, Clearcoat Inside or Not, it is used for additional shine and durability.
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From: Broussard USA
It is not really a hardner it is an activator. Just like epoxy you need both parts for the proper catalist to take place. They do make 1 part clears but they are not as hard as 2 part urethan. Why are you worried about it? Spraying a 2 part is no different than a 1 part paint.
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally Posted by daimon1054
It is not really a hardner it is an activator. Just like epoxy you need both parts for the proper catalist to take place. They do make 1 part clears but they are not as hard as 2 part urethan. Why are you worried about it? Spraying a 2 part is no different than a 1 part paint.
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From: green bay, WI
Siphon feed guns were very popular before the hvlp guns came out and they were regulations against using them in states like California. I still use my siphon feed for spraying my clearcoat, because I think it lays clear out nicer then I can get my hvlp gun to. Siphon spray guns are very affordable now, The binks model 7 was probably the most used and the design was copied by many other manufacturers. I bet a lot of old painters still have a binks model 7 around somewhere. I still use the Sharpe siphon gun which was one of the first guns I started spraying with today.
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From: MN
Thanks for all your replys. I'm spraying AE without harder to avoid isocyanates. Isocyanates + athsma = 
!! I want to add a clear to increase shine and durability. The paint guy at NAPA said that you have to use harder with clear, otherwise any solvent would strip it off. The paint is for the outside of a truck cap, so there is a much smaller chance of me spilling gas or a solvent on to it. Would an acrylic enamel clear work ok without a hardner?
Thanks for the replies on the spray gun, but I ended up getting a gravity feed CH sprayer.
Thanks for your help.
!! I want to add a clear to increase shine and durability. The paint guy at NAPA said that you have to use harder with clear, otherwise any solvent would strip it off. The paint is for the outside of a truck cap, so there is a much smaller chance of me spilling gas or a solvent on to it. Would an acrylic enamel clear work ok without a hardner? Thanks for the replies on the spray gun, but I ended up getting a gravity feed CH sprayer.
Thanks for your help.
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From: green bay, WI
An acrylic enamel can be sprayed without a hardener, so I imagine the clear can too, just doesn't have the pigment. Just will air dry instead of chemically and not be is durable/chemical resistant. I believe it can be years before it truly drys all the way through. Can't really buff it after either. Maybe you could somehow build something clear around the cap with room to reach in and spray it somehow being it is not a whole vehicle, and be isolated. Anyone with ideas how something like that would be possible. Just a thought, I am one of the painters that must think he is bulletproof. Know I've had my share of isocyanate exposure, but I am getting more cautious now.
Last edited by kenseth17; May 19, 2004 at 09:56 PM.
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From: green bay, WI
If you did all the sanding and prep on the cap and got it all ready so it just had to be sprayed, maybe you can find a body tech that will spray it for you at a decent price. Many are underpayed and unappreciated. Go to the autobody online forum and read the threads. Catch the guy leaving the shop with the discruntled look on his face and his head down. I think some shops are hurting for work now and some workers may not be getting as many hours in. Another option is to check your local tech school, NWTC only charged material costs when I went there, no labor. Don't know if classes are running right now. Unless you are set on spraying it yourself.
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From: MN
Well I got a quote from a shop and it was about $400! The guy had done some work for my parents, and was the best quote. He wanted to do all the prep work himself. I can't blame him, because that way he could garuntee his job. There were some rust issues and some customization that I really could only do, because i know what I wanted. Anyway, I need to repaint parts of my cab too, and some fender flares when I get the money.
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From: NJ where fun comes to die
If you want an inexpensive paint job, you can try Rustolem Metalic. There are only about 5 colors, and they have a clear coat. Take your time, it will look fine and cost little. If you buy a spray gun, you can get by with a mid size gun. I bought one about 6 months ago for $120.00. It does a great job. It is gravity feed, so was my old one. If you use 2 part clear you would do well to use a good mask (full face), cover all your skin-neck, hands etc. People with breathing problems sometimes have a machine that pimps filtered air through a 1/4 " tube. I picked one up at a flea market for $40.00. I poked the tube in the side of my mask. No problems now. Keep the machine out of the spray area. I think it was made by Praxair, or the like. Check medical supplies that rent. They might have a used one.If you breathe in the 2 part clear it hardens in your lungs. None of the paints are any good for your lungs. Take the time to protect yourself or let someone else do it.
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From: MN
If you want an inexpensive paint job,
I'm currently looking into this stuff.
http://www.zerorust.com/crystalcoat.htm
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From: green bay, WI
I know what you mean with the prep work. Guy dropped of his motorcycle frame to get painted and started sanding today. Damn, theres alot of welds and brackets and nooks and crannys to sand. As far as supplied air systems, there is one made by hobby air new for around $300 I think. Some of the other systems are really expensive. If I ever get the money, I will invest in the hobby air. You need the right system, you can't run off of a compressor because that pumps oil into your lungs which can kill you too. Nothing is safe. I remember my first job sitting through a long tape by osha just for sanding dust when I worked at wood door place and how bad it is to breathe. Thats nothing compared to the amount of dust and hazardous chemicals you deal with in painting and bodywork.