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Check the exhaust like KenB said. I've seen lots of weed eaters with clogged mufflers. Make sure you take the muffler off and inspect the exhaust port.
Check the exhaust like KenB said. I've seen lots of weed eaters with clogged mufflers. Make sure you take the muffler off and inspect the exhaust port.
Ditto on what they said. Exhaust port and spark arrestor clogs are quite common on two-cycle engines.
Had to take the muffler off of mine and put carb cleaner in it, then set it on fire and let it burn all the old oil out.
Runs good now.
I was outside when I set the muffler on fire.
Update:
I got it started again to night. Ran good, was able to run in the high RPMs. Didn't bog, kind of slow at first before reaching the high RPMs, kind of a hesitation, ran strong though.
At first, I primed the he11 out of it, did notice that air was getting in to the line, had some fuel leaking from the bottom line, which is from taking the lines on and off, I'll just cut the end off. I do want to change the diaphragm and buy a new plug for it.
I took off the muffler, but it look clean, no deposits. Didn't find a screen of any type.
I must have unclogged something, from the carb cleaner.
I'll give you more of any up date this weekend after I use it more.
One more question do I need or should I change the filters in the fuel tank??
Thank each one of you so much, I have learned so much, in what to look for and what not to do.
Fuel tank 'filter/screen', only if it looks really bad or falling apart does it need changing, otherwise don't bother.
The line that has the air bubbles in it, are there two lines? One usually clear, one usually black, they run pretty close to each other.
Depends on age of unit and mfg.
If two lines, clear one is a bypass/feedback line. When priming, system only allows so much fuel to be fed into carb, excess returns to fuel tank via the clear line - it will look like it has bubbles in it.
Some mfg of 2 cycle equipment have gotten smart, it's very difficult to flood one by over-priming - some units anyway.
If there's only one line, don't worry about it, not all have two.
Glad you got it started, bet it makes you feel better. You must remove the mental picture of yourself with a 12lb sledge beating the trimmer to bits from your mind.
Do you have any kind of book/instructions on unit?
Suggest looking into settings for choke and throttle cable to be certain both are set as should be. Esp if unit continues to be difficult to start.
KenB:
It has two lines, at first when I started to prime it, it wouldn't prime and I noticed the air bubbles going in to the carb, and the leaking fuel, will I noticed the fuel before that.
I was going to take zip ties to the fuel lines. Nice and tight.
When I replaced the fuel lines and primer last year, I had a hard time getting the fuel lines back on the filters, do have any good suggestions on how to do that?
If you can work with the fuel lines in CLEAN condition, ie without fuel or cleaner, drop them in a pan of near boiling water for 10 or so seconds.
Hot faucet water isn't usually quite hot enough.
Then with needle nose pliers, pick them up and push them onto fitting/opening.
Don't squeeze too long or too hard. They'll firm back up after cooling.
Don't try using open flame (match, torch, etc) way too much heat, they'll instantly melt.
Please be careful when doing this. It can be tempting to take whole unit indoors near oven and pan of boiling water, don't. Disassemble required parts and take them in if you need to, no fuel.
I'm trying to change out the fuel line in my Weed Eater Model GTI 19T, and I can't get the fuel tank open to feed out the rest of the line. Any ideas? There are no bolts of screws holding the tank together and I don't want to pry it open because I might break it.
rob
an old metal hanger. make a small hook and put it through the fill hole on the tank, hook the line and pull it out. there should be plenty of fuel line in the tank to do this- the filter is also a weight to keep the line in the "bottom" of the tank regardless of engine oreintation- so it will still run upside down.
Anyone know why a weed wacker would bog down when turned on it's side for edging? We do this for a living and our wackers all seem to end up bogging down to the point that they aren't edging anymore after a couple of years. Checked exhaust screens. any ideas? thanks.
happened a lot where i used to work- usually rebuilding the carb helped but they would never run as good as when they were new. we figured out how to "adjust" the non-adjustable carbs on the tanakas and you could find a happy medium to run them sideways/upside down.
Two items might be worth checking.
The on/off switch, has it been checked, as simple as it is, they do fail at times.
The exhaust, is it covered by a screen (spark arrestor) ?
If yes, take screen off and clean, they can get carbon fouled/clogged up to the point of being kin to sticking a potato up the tailpipe, closing the door on the whole air flow concept.
As for switch, he shouldn't get any spark at all if it were not working, should he?
And as for the Exhuast you may have just given me the answer to a trimmer that has baffle me for a few days, sad to think I done this for several years as a Power Generator Mech, with Uncle Sam, of anything from a 5KW upto power plants big enough to run small towns..
Thank you for the quick "refresher course"
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