New problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
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From: st. Augustine Florida
New problem
My 1993 ford bronco XLT with the 5.8l 351w V8 won't start. I replaced the computer, it ran fine. Parked it for 2 days would not start. It has fuel, spark, compression, and the timings correct! The is no logical reason it should not run. Maby a sensor? Also, when hitting the gas while starting it will sometimes sputter, it reeks of gas, But it's not carborated. If anyone can help it would mean the world to me.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
try squirting ether in the air box. If the truck starts, you have a fuel issue, check the fuel pump.
If it doesn't start, check the spark, if no spark it might be some issue with the distributor/coil. If you replace the coil and it still doesn't start, try having the distributor rebuilt.
If it doesn't start, check the spark, if no spark it might be some issue with the distributor/coil. If you replace the coil and it still doesn't start, try having the distributor rebuilt.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: st. Augustine Florida
Well...
Ive tried starting fluid and i also put in a new cap and rotar im soon going to install the new distributer tommorow it gets spark but the pip or cps inside it might be bad because im geting a code for pip moduel
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 501
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From: Lincoln, NE
My '91 F150 acted the same as you are describing. It still had the original computer in it. When I was checking codes, it would fail. CEL would flicker is an uncontrolled manner. Ii pulled the computer and found caps with broken off leads and corroded traces on the board. Rebuilt computer fixed it for me.
Are you getting a good reading when checking for codes?
Are you getting a good reading when checking for codes?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
I had to rebuild the distributor on my 1990. Took it clear down to the cam drive tooths. After I rebuit with all new parts, pip, stator, pickup, etc. haven't had a problem since. Before that it would stop running when it got hot, the engine got hot. Then after it cooled down it would start up again, until finally it stopped starting altogether. So I got a Haynes manual and tried to troubleshoot where the problem was. changing the coil didn't fix it. And still no spark. All the troubleshooting solutions had to do with the distributor so I just took it out one day and rebuilt the whole thing.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: st. Augustine Florida
My '91 F150 acted the same as you are describing. It still had the original computer in it. When I was checking codes, it would fail. CEL would flicker is an uncontrolled manner. Ii pulled the computer and found caps with broken off leads and corroded traces on the board. Rebuilt computer fixed it for me.
Are you getting a good reading when checking for codes?
Are you getting a good reading when checking for codes?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
My 1992 with the 351 had a cold starting problem, would have to crank a lot to get it started, would start fine when warm. Ended up being the coil, IIRC the secondary side was just out of range, but sure affected cold starts.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
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From: st. Augustine Florida
For some reason, my distributor won't come out. Took out the bolt with the bracket that holds the shaft down, pulled straight up and it won't budge.
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Senior User
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From: Florida
Soak with some Blaster and let it sit.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
The distributor has a gear on the bottom that is driven by the camshaft, the gears mesh and might have to turn the distributor a little bit to allow the teeth to slip past each other.
Then the other sticking point would be the hole that the distributor goes into in the engine, there's a o-ring on the housing,
The shaft goes all the way to the camshaft, the housing only goes into the engine past the 0=ring. Check youtube videos for examples.
Don't get too cowboy but use a firm pressure pulling straight up on the housing and allow the shaft to turn as needed.
Then the other sticking point would be the hole that the distributor goes into in the engine, there's a o-ring on the housing,
The shaft goes all the way to the camshaft, the housing only goes into the engine past the 0=ring. Check youtube videos for examples.
Don't get too cowboy but use a firm pressure pulling straight up on the housing and allow the shaft to turn as needed.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 5
will the distributor turn? try to turn the distributor with a small pipe wrench or large pliers at the base where it goes into the engine. There might be a build up of crust that has hardened. Again don't be macho Camacho on it, just a firm pressure, I know it's a tight fit but try to get as low on the distributor as possible. There is only the one bolt holding down a clamp on the distributor. Someone might have applied a sealant on the connection?
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
I have a '92 5.0 that had an intermittent starting problem that occasionally caused rough idle and hard transmission shifts...turned out to be the MAP sensor going bad. I tried the speed sensor, the computer, the entire ignition and fuel system, the tps, etc before finding out it was the MAP sensor.
10 minute job fixed all the problems.
10 minute job fixed all the problems.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 116
From: Saskatchewan Canada
I have had some luck using one of those seat belt style oil filter wrenches around the distributor body and a breaker bar. Work carefully, but the wrench grabs that odd shaped object and the bar gives you enough leverage to break it loose.
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