I have just recently purchase a 99 F-350 4wd long bed super duty and a fifth wheel trailer. When hitched up my 5th wheel's nose is extremely high and most weight on rear of tandem axle for trailer. I can not adjust my hitch, or tounge on trailer to make up for this because bed heighth makes truck hit trailer. The truck is bone stock on tires and lift, and it looks like I either need taller tires on trailer, or some kind of lift for springs. I would rather not do either because it make trailer more top heavy, and the steps out trailer would need to be lengthened. Has anyone else had this problem, or have a solution?

 

This is why a lot of people who tow fifth wheels use 4x2 trucks. Exactly how high is the front end of the trailer? Does the truck itself sit level when the trailer is hooked up? How much clearance do you have over the bed rails?

I agree, flipping the springs or lifting the trailer is not that good for performance, although there are plenty of people that disagree with me. The higher the trailer sits the more "turbulence" you get from wind underneath the trailer. If clearance is not a problem you might be able to swap pins and get a better ride height. If the truck still sits a little high in the rear you might be able to swap the rear 4" block for a 2" and install airbags to help handle the load. This assumes that the 2" will make a difference and make the trailer sit level.

 

... and magically the F-350 became a F-250...

Edmo

 

Yes, but it's still legally registered as an F350. The airbags will more than make up for any loss from the blocks.

 

Agreed...

Although I drag around a travel trailer right now, I chose the 4x4 250 based on the same problem with 2" vs 4" blocks and bed clearance on some 5ers. I plan to go the same airbag route.

I don't think the law is stopping people based on 250/350 badges and weight stickers, but I guess I'll find out when I step up to a 5er!

Edmo

 

I had a 99 F250 and had the same problem. I pulled an 87 Nomad 30ft. I welded new spring perches on the axle axles and put them under the springs. I pulled that trailer about 15,000 miles with no problem. I now have an 03 F350 pulling an 02 Montana. The newer trailers are better designed for 4x4 trucks. I see talk about different size blocks, Ford has a TSB about this subject and that is what they reccommend going to smaller blocks. If you don't need air bags now you won't need them if you change the blocks it does not change spring rate only ride height.

 

Thanks for the reply, if I understand you right the "spring perches" are where the springs rest/bolt to the axle? I have measured and it looks like if I could take out the 4" blocks and put in 2", and can raise trailer 2" I should ride fine. How much did you raise spring perches? What about the pivot/spring shackle in the middle of the tandems that is attached to trailer?

 

You should already have 4" blocks between the axle and springs. You need the 2" blocks used with the F250 and the u-bolts. I'm sure you won't be the first one to ask for this no matter what dealership you go to. Make sure you tell them year and configuration of the truck. The blocks that are used vary by year and configuration.

I'm not sure about the trailer. A lot of people flip the axles, but you don't want to add that much height. Have you asked your RV dealer?

 

i think what i said was I was going to remove the 4" blocks on the truck and install 2" blocks, as far as flipping axles I did not mention that!

 

My misunderstanding, I thought you were looking to both lower the truck 2" and raise the trailer 2". Anyway, the block swap is not a big deal, just make sure you get the right blocks for your truck. They aren't all the same.

 

If you can change the blocks on the truck that is an easy fix. What I did to the trailer was weld new perches on the top of the axle and then mounted them under the srpings. You do not have to change anything on the center pivot. All you are doing is moving the axle from the top of the spring to the bottom. You cannot flip the axles because they have an arch in them. The only disadvantage of doing this is you raise the center of gravity. For me that caused no problem. Trailer axles are manufactuered both ways with the perches on the top or bottom of the axle just depends on needs.

 

if you lower the rear of the truck, wouldn't you need to adjust the front as well, or tilt downward?

 

No Ford 4x4 trucks are built with the front about 2 1/2 to 3 inches lower than the rear.

 

The rear of his truck has a 4" block under it that makes the rear sit high already. If he swaps to 2" blocks the rear will still sit high.

 

I figured that is the springs causing that, as when loaded it shoulld be sitting level, so what you're saying is that in effect the are "jacking up" the rear fo the 350's?