Driverside not Locking
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Joined: May 2004
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Driverside not Locking
My 1997 Explorer EB is not locking the driver door when the lock buttons on the door or remote is pressed, the only way to lock it is push the manual lock down, the buttons unlock it and I hear the actuator when locking it it just doesn't pull down the lock and lock the door. What could it be?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 950
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From: Conroe, TX
The best way to find the problem is to pull the inteior panel off and watch the system as you lock and unlock your door. It is hard to give an exact answer because there are so many parts that control the door lock in each door, but from what you have said, it sounds like the actuator is the problem.
Chris
Chris
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New User
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what has happend is the acuator rivet has come off and the actuator is hanging so when you lock the door the actuator moves and not the lock linkage. We don't know how to get the actuator out to take the rivet out and replace it with a bolt. Do you know how to unhook the actuator from the lock linkage? If so please tell me how. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 950
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From: Conroe, TX
How are the two linkages connected? From what few sources i could find it looks as though the lock linkage has a hole in it and the actuator linkage has an 'L' bend in it that slips through the hole.
Chris
Chris
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Moscow, Russia
Here is the picture of front door lock assy. Having it in front of you it is easier to explain what's wrong.
Sorry for bad quality, I have no available hosting to post large uncompressed pictures right now.
If you cannot see the picture above, try this link:
http://photofile.ru/default/do?sp=57...&id=1834497#sm
With best regards,
Yuri
Sorry for bad quality, I have no available hosting to post large uncompressed pictures right now.
If you cannot see the picture above, try this link:
http://photofile.ru/default/do?sp=57...&id=1834497#sm
With best regards,
Yuri
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New User
Joined: Jan 2004
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I was able to pop the metal bracket off the solenoid (pryed out on the sides gently). You can slip a short bolt the correct length and same diameter through the rivet hole facing out, then use a thin nut to tighten the bracket to the door from the outside. Snap the solenoid back into the bracket and you're done. I think the reason this happened was from lack of lubrication inside the door on locking hardware- the solenoid could hardly move before I lubed everything.
George
George
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Joined: Aug 2003
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i do not have a problem with the door not locking, but on my 97 explorer xlt, whenever the doors lock either by remote or inside, the lock on the front passenger door makes 3 consecutive locking noises, not just the one locking noise. i wonder if anyone knows what this problem might be.
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 21
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From: Bettendorf, IA
Exactally what happend to me about 6 months ago. (OK, so it has not been a priority!) Actuator still working, but not moving the lock post up and down. About the same time I started noticing a "thud" everytime I closed the driver's door. After a long winter, decided to have look. Sure enough, rivet holding the actuator to the door had snapped off. The thud was everytime the actuator would swing and hit the inside of the door.
I stopped by the Ford house and inquired about the "bolt" holding the actuator and found out it was a rivet. The parts guy sent me around back to the body shop where they gave me an identical rivet for the repair.
I have yet to get the actuator out of the bracket, but believe that I have enough info from this thread to give it a try. If I can work it out, I will replace it with another rivet, otherwise I am going to for the bolt and nut method as told above.
Here is hoping!
____________________________
'97 Mountaineer, 5.0 AWD - 118k and counting
I stopped by the Ford house and inquired about the "bolt" holding the actuator and found out it was a rivet. The parts guy sent me around back to the body shop where they gave me an identical rivet for the repair.
I have yet to get the actuator out of the bracket, but believe that I have enough info from this thread to give it a try. If I can work it out, I will replace it with another rivet, otherwise I am going to for the bolt and nut method as told above.
Here is hoping!
____________________________
'97 Mountaineer, 5.0 AWD - 118k and counting
Last edited by Top Jimmy; Jul 7, 2004 at 09:47 AM.
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 75
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From: Ontario
97 EB driver's side door lock
Can anyone give me directions on replacing the actuator?
I pryed off the bracket to replace the rivet, but while trying to snap it back on, the plastic linkage in the actuator broke off.
The local parts store wants $127.40 for a new one, so I'll check the scrap yard.
A pic was posted of the actuator, but I'm stumped when trying to get the linkage removed to replace this thing.
I pryed off the bracket to replace the rivet, but while trying to snap it back on, the plastic linkage in the actuator broke off.
The local parts store wants $127.40 for a new one, so I'll check the scrap yard.
A pic was posted of the actuator, but I'm stumped when trying to get the linkage removed to replace this thing.