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Sky's Shackel Flip

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Old May 13, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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Sky's Shackel Flip

I bought a set from Sky after searching some yards and finding out that the shackle hangers on all the old fords (73-79) I found were cracked / pitted / holes ect along with my own. Question is, don't Sky's hangers seem overkill? I was thinking of shaving some metal off and maybe drilling some holes to shed some pounds. I don't have the offroad experience you guys do and was just wondering about their bulkness.
And also there's an existing rivot holding a cross member right in the middle of one of Sky's gussetts on my frame. Did you guys have this problem? I thought of putting a dimple in the back of the mounting flange to cover the rivot. What did you guys do?

Very curious
Thanks,
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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Sky's hangars are built beefy to hold up to the abuse of offroading and the extra stress of the reversed shackle. Don't shave anything off of them . . . they are built like that to last and the amount of weight you'll drop is so minimal you're not going to notice any difference. Remember the crappy state of all the hangars you were looking at? The Sky's are built so they don't end up like that.

I'm not sure about the rivot for the crossmember. I don't remember hearing of anyone having an issue with is but I imagine if you do have a rivot you'd be fine to sink a dimple into the back of the mounting flange. Check out fishmandotcom's gallery, he has some pictures of his Sky hangars in there.
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 03:03 PM
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Ford designed the hangers to double as water catchers didn't help much did it? I see them mounted on firhermandotcom's gallery. Thanks for the input.
My rivot issue is on a '75 F-150. It's located in the very center top of the hanger if you mount it in the stock holes. Might just be a '75 year issue?

Thanks ivanribic! That gallery picture was very useful.
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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One other thing to consider and I'm sure fishy will have some input when he sees this. Sky's kits are designed to use the stock holes and will bolt right up but from everything that I've seen (inlcuding fishy's gallery) this seems to make the rear shackle sit completely verticle. This will make for a poor, stiff ride. I'm not sure if he's had any problems with this or not. In any event you want to have the rear shackles angled 30-40 degrees forward if I remember right so you might consider using the forward set of stock mounting holes for the rear hangar bolts and then drilling 2 new holes for the others. This will bring the whole hangar forward a bit giving you a better shackle angle and may clean your rivot at the same time. I'm not saying this is THE way to go but something to keep in mind and experiment with when you're installing them.

Let us know how it goes when all is said and done. Something else, if you have a camera, try to take before and after pics of the rear tire in relation to the front half of the fender. I'm curious to see side by side comparisons of exactly how much is pushes the axle forward.

Good luck!
 
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Old May 13, 2004 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
This will make for a poor, stiff ride. I'm not sure if he's had any problems with this or not. In any event you want to have the rear shackles angled 30-40 degrees forward if I remember right
i didn't have a problem with any rivets other then getting the stock ones off. it might be a special package of some sort that ford put on there like a camper special or the super duty series and it called for another rivet, i dunno. i would see about gettin rid of the rivet rather than shaving or drillin the bracket. Ivan has a good point, i understand it is overkill, but you won't be sayin that when your buddies homemade shackle buckles over and he has to limp home sideways.

as for the angle.....30* is just about perfect, but with my setup either my truck is so long or it is so heavy that i don't notice it. it rides just fine for me. if you are a stickler about the ride then i would consider mving the bracket forward about 1/2"-3/4" and drilling new holes to get yourride back.

glad you could use my pics, i knew i put them up for a reason

-cutts-

EDIT: that crossmember prolly just hols up your gas tank so maybe you could just move the crossmember up like 1" or so and be able to clear it.
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 06:29 AM
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If I didn't work all the time I'd take pictures. I'll get pictures this weekend. This isn't anything special, just a '75 F-150 Custom. The rivot that is in the way holds the rear crossmember in place along with the back 2 hanger holes. I think a picture would say 1,000 words. I'll continue this thread on Monday.

Thanks too much guys!
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 09:51 AM
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Don't mean to hijack your post gittinwidit but what do you guys recomend to take the rivets out? I was looking at my stock hanger the other day and its rivited on as well. I think an air chisel would be the best way, but I surely don't have one of those. I think a sawzall will work but I don't know if its to close to the frame and would hate to cut the frame! What did you use Jason?
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 09:59 AM
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You can use an air chisel on them or you can take the heads off with a grinder and then use a punch to force them out. Apparently Ford never intended these rivets to come out.
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 10:05 AM
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I use the grinder / punch method. Works pretty good. You have to be careful about scarring the frame though.
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 10:09 AM
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Thanks guys! Yeah I would really hate to damage the frame that can get a little pricey!
 
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Old May 14, 2004 | 10:51 PM
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Two people with grinders we got the old ones out and the new ones in, in just over 2 hours without removing the rear tank, this is on a 93 F150.
 
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Old May 15, 2004 | 11:16 PM
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i always use an oxy torch and concentrate the heat on the head of the rivet then as soon as i am done i quench the surrounding area to keep it from being affected too much!

before i used torches we always used a grinder with a cutting wheel and cut the heads off just like prescribed above.

-cutts-
 
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