I've read quite a few of your excellent threads on the CPS/SS problems and issues and it gave me all the insight I needed to replace them to remove the engine light on my dash, thank you.
I have replaced both the CPS and the Synchronizer Shaft that was identical to the thread from Clodwell where the CPS was bare and the SS had the flange sheered off ??? I cautiously marked, removed, and replace the shaft without using the "alignment tool" from Ford and the engine started fine.
My issue is this,... the engine idles roughly while in gear, both forward gears or reverse,... the engine seems to smooth out if in Park or Neutral,... The engine was running like it was missing or bad timing,.. I was under the assumption that if the SS was put back incorrectly that the car wouldn't start or run at all ???
I'm sure my markings had me place the SS back in correctly...or at least how I had pulled the old one out.
I have since unplugged the CPS and the engine is running perfect ? What's that all about ? The check engine light has come back on again as one would expect...
So, What good is the CPS and SS, what job does it perform, and what should I do next to get it working properly ?
Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

Welcome to FTE!

On Ford EDIS ignition systems, the camshaft position (CMP) sensor detects the position of the camshaft and identifies when piston No. 1 is on its compression stroke. A signal is then sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) which is used for synchronizing the firing of sequential fuel injectors. In short, the CMP sensor is used for the timing of the fuel being delivered into the cylinders.

I'll let someone who has actually done the CMP/SS replacment comment on the specifics of re-installation. But be sure to check to see if maybe a hose or wire got accidently knocked off somewhere else on the engine during the repair.

 

Thanks for the update... I have reviewed all other connections and they seem to be fine... I would think that something else is causing the rough / missing idle while in drive ? It's definitely NOT there while the CMP is unplugged, but shows up while connected ? Am I to assume that I'm just getting less performance out of my engine with the CMP unplugged ? Why does it still run and run seemingly great without it attached ? Thanks again for the help.

 

Try unplugging your battery cable and letting it sit for 20-30 minutes. That should clear the computer. Then take it on a little ride around the city. I believe that the computer just needs to relearn everything.

 

Okeedoke ! I'll give it a try,... I thought I had disconnected the negative side for at least 15min right after I had replace the CMP because I had heard that was needed to do to reset the check engine light. The light didn't come on when I fired her up so I thought I had done it long enough, but who knows.... I'll hook the CMP back up, disconnect the negative for 30 min, and give it another shot and see what happens.... Do you agree that if I had put the synchronizer shaft back incorrectly that it would NOT have even started or had major misfires??? Thanks for the help.

 

My wife tells me the engine ran like a top after I had disconnected the battery for 30-45 mins. ! ! ! ! Looks like it must have worked !! Thank you so much for the suggestion on the amount of time to leave the battery disconnected.