Passenger Door Window
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 26
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From: Ceres, Calif.
Passenger Door Window
This has happened intermittently to the passenger side rear door where the window will roll down and not come back up. After a half day or so it would start working. Well this time it went down Sunday and will not come back up. I've check out all the fuse's and relays and all is working fine. I check the master control unit and I'm getting power to it and from it. I took the door panel off and found that I'm getting power down to the motor but its also feeding back up through the the down wire. But when pushing the down button I'm getting power to the motor and no feed back through any of the wires. Also when I push the down button the lights in the car get dim but not with pushing the up button.
This all points to the window motor being burned out, right?
Is there anything I may have missed?
Also, what is a cost of a window motor? and is it better to have ford change it or do it myself?
Any help would be greatly Appreciated.
GITanker
This all points to the window motor being burned out, right?
Is there anything I may have missed?
Also, what is a cost of a window motor? and is it better to have ford change it or do it myself?
Any help would be greatly Appreciated.
GITanker
Last edited by gi_tanker; May 10, 2004 at 10:50 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,960
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From: All over Texas
Sounds like a bad motor to me. A year or so ago, mine started "not" working intermittently, then finally bought the farm. I had it replaced under my extended warranty so I didn't pay much attention to cost, but I think it was something like $275 for parts and labor....if I didn't have the warranty, I'd have done it myself and saved a bundle.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 26
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From: Ceres, Calif.
Ok, I took my Expedition into ford today to have them put in the new window motor and after 15 minutes the mechanic say's that its not the motor but the door window switch. He says that the ground in the switch went out, so that was way it was getting feed back through the other wire.
So this just saved me $114.00 and they only charged me $38.00 for half an hour's work
. The new switch will be in monday and I can install it myself.
So this just saved me $114.00 and they only charged me $38.00 for half an hour's work
. The new switch will be in monday and I can install it myself.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: All over Texas
Great news. Thanks for the follow up. This kind of info will benefit others with similar problems.
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My Experience...
Just the other day I had the same problem with the exception of "mine" was stuck in the up position".
I'm no mechanic but the good "Lord" knows I have spend a lots on trivia miss-haps thats gonna happen to any road machine.
So... I went to the MAIN control driver's side with all the functions and buttons. If you look to the outer edge, you will see a oblong recess all the way around the buttons. This is a plastic plate and the area is "snapped in" and will pry up with no trouble at all.
You have 3" to 4" lead wires (so ya can pull up to see) with two major plug in's that also "snap" into a receptacle. Push on these to insure that they are seated. BOTH of mine snapped into position...WALLAH! No more window problems. This worked for me and I was exploring ...I also got my lights back on that would light up at knight on the "door panel".
Maybe this will save some folks from rip-off artist...that proclaim they had to replace the electrical module, and remove the door panel, other parafinaila called "Tracing" and lets not forget "labor cost @ at a min. of $20.00 an hour
cobrah
I'm no mechanic but the good "Lord" knows I have spend a lots on trivia miss-haps thats gonna happen to any road machine.
So... I went to the MAIN control driver's side with all the functions and buttons. If you look to the outer edge, you will see a oblong recess all the way around the buttons. This is a plastic plate and the area is "snapped in" and will pry up with no trouble at all.
You have 3" to 4" lead wires (so ya can pull up to see) with two major plug in's that also "snap" into a receptacle. Push on these to insure that they are seated. BOTH of mine snapped into position...WALLAH! No more window problems. This worked for me and I was exploring ...I also got my lights back on that would light up at knight on the "door panel".
Maybe this will save some folks from rip-off artist...that proclaim they had to replace the electrical module, and remove the door panel, other parafinaila called "Tracing" and lets not forget "labor cost @ at a min. of $20.00 an hour
cobrah
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