Over heating when idling
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Over heating when idling
I have a 79 F 150 just installed 460 that has been overhauled 30 over flat tops, D3 heads ported on exaust only mild cam and stealth intake. runs great but after driving till it gets to operating temp if you let it idle for more than 3 or 4 min. it will climb to the top of the normal range on temp gauge. It has 160 thermostat, and original 460 clutch fan with a new clutch, water flow through rad. is good after thermostat opens and rad. is 460 super cooling unit that is new.. any ideas on what might cause this kind of problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
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From: So Cal
Could be a bad gauge or sender. I would use a good thermometer and measure temps in the tank or maybe one of those infrared thermometers? I had this problem with an old Dodge way back. The gauge said really hot, but the thermometer said 180.
Are the hoses nice and firm? They aren't squishy or collapse while running do they?
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Are the hoses nice and firm? They aren't squishy or collapse while running do they?
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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all hoses are new and i do have a shroud new sender and original dash gauge I believe the gauge is correct because when it is showing high temp i get very light spak knock under load but when you get back to over 35 the gauge reads normal and spark knock goes away.thanks for the answers though any other ideas.
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It could just be normal break in period heating. A new engine is tight and more friction makes more heat.
I'm no fan of a 160 thermostat. It's too cold, will make you engine wear faster and sludge up more, and can actually allow water to pass through the radiator too fast to be cooled properly.
I'd still get a mechanical temp gauge so I could see exactly what the water temp is. From your symptoms, I'd say you're running 210 - 220 at idle. Not really overheating, but getting close.
I'm no fan of a 160 thermostat. It's too cold, will make you engine wear faster and sludge up more, and can actually allow water to pass through the radiator too fast to be cooled properly.
I'd still get a mechanical temp gauge so I could see exactly what the water temp is. From your symptoms, I'd say you're running 210 - 220 at idle. Not really overheating, but getting close.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
What's a proper running temp for a 460? I went to an electric fan and mine stays between 195-210. I had a hard pull last weekend and hit 220 for a few minutes . . . seems awfully hot but I'm not sure where it's supposed to be.
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I don't like to see more than 195 myself but the temps you describe are perfectly fine. You're not going to hurt that motor at 220.
I pulled a 6 X 12 U-Haul trailer over Monarch Pass in Colorado years ago with my 429. 21 MPH all the way up with the pedal floored. Ran 220 the whole way - no problem.
The same engine, crossing the Mohave Desert with a poor radiator - never dropped below 230 for 3 hours. I got it as hot as 270 several times. I'm still driving it and the heads haven't even been off.
I'm not recommending this to anybody, just illustrating how tough these engines really are.
I pulled a 6 X 12 U-Haul trailer over Monarch Pass in Colorado years ago with my 429. 21 MPH all the way up with the pedal floored. Ran 220 the whole way - no problem.
The same engine, crossing the Mohave Desert with a poor radiator - never dropped below 230 for 3 hours. I got it as hot as 270 several times. I'm still driving it and the heads haven't even been off.
I'm not recommending this to anybody, just illustrating how tough these engines really are.
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thanks for everones input this is a driver that will see a lot of time at low speeds off road and it starts to heat in the first 3 or 4 minutes after idleing when engine is at temp. went to 192 t-stat and all it did was increase my running temp when at road speed. but thanks anyway it was worth a try
Elder User
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If you start running over 215 for long periods of time, you can try a few things. You can try a straight shaft fan (no clutch). You could add a pusher electric fan to the outside of the radiator (turn it on at low speeds or hook it to a thermostat). You could also go to an electric fan(s) in place of the stock one. Make sure the fan(s) put out at least 4500 cfm, 5500+ would be better. They do get expensive when you get to that volume of fan(s) though. 195-215 is an acceptable range for the 460. I like mine between 195-205.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
The only reason I went to electric fans is because I am running in a lot of mud and water. I wanted to be able to shut my fans off before I go in deep to prevent a major spray in my engine compartment and so my stock fan didn't act as a propeller and hit my radiator. If you're not doing stupid offroad river FORDing then I'd recommend sticking with the stock fan. You'll find it's much more work and hassle (and money) to get an electric setup that will cool as well as the stock mechanical fan. I'm running a pusher and puller to keep up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
Edwing, don't think this is your problem as you said your engine is running great BUT just in case I'll mention it anyhow. I have a friend who rebuilt an engine, all high performance bling bling. Installed it, started it and had a HELL of a time keeping the temp down. He installed an aluminum racing radiator and did everything else you could possibly think of but had no luck getting the temp down. Finally he gave up and decided to pull the engine again and tear it apart. Right before he did a thought came to mind and he double checked it. Turns out he had the wrong spark plugs in there. They weren't long enough and were detonating up inside the head causing a tremendous heat build up. He changed them with a proper set and never had any trouble since.
I just thought I'd mention this in case . . . not likely but it could happen.
I just thought I'd mention this in case . . . not likely but it could happen.
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thanks on the plug suggestion i dont think that is the problem but i will double check just to make sure. I put small electric fan in front and that helps have not had chance to run it long to see if this takes care of the problem in the heat of the day.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Chino, California
Ed said: all hoses are new and i do have a shroud new sender and original dash gauge
Ed, is the sending unit matched to the original Ford gauge? The sending unit is a "variable resistor" (thermistor) and has to be matched to the gauge's coil.
Also, I had the same problem with my 460 van. Turned out to be the original dash gauge was bad after I had replaced the t-stat, rebuilt the radiator, installed a new fan clutch, and a new water pump.
My money's on the gauge.
Ed, is the sending unit matched to the original Ford gauge? The sending unit is a "variable resistor" (thermistor) and has to be matched to the gauge's coil.
Also, I had the same problem with my 460 van. Turned out to be the original dash gauge was bad after I had replaced the t-stat, rebuilt the radiator, installed a new fan clutch, and a new water pump.
My money's on the gauge.