I have a '59 F100 I'm installing my 390 into. I got a C4TA truck bell housing that has ears that fit the cross member perfectly. When I installed the engine it is centered almost perfectly between the front frame rails.

I had planned to build the front mounts, remove the truck bell housing and install an old Lakewood that I would weld ears onto to match the cross member.

But...the rear axle is offset about 2 inches to the right. There is plenty of room on both sides of the enigne for the headers I'll be building next. So what would you do?

1. Continue installing the engine as orginally planned and find an offset rear axle housing.

2. Offset the engine by removing the truck bell housing, install the Lakewood and add the mountinng ears and then build the front mounts. (I don't know if the Lakewood will fit offset that much. I guess that check is next.)

Thanks,

Bob

 

I think you'll be fine Bob with the engine & trans centered between the rails.
The driveshaft angles down towards the offset axle, it's not a straight shot.
On my 58 with y block & 4-speed, the engine, trans are centered with the factory mounts, but the rear end is offset to the right ( standing behind the vehicle), so the driveshaft is at an angle heading down to the rear end, and that's the way it was designed originally.

 

For most uses you are probably rightbut I'm building a drag truck. The 390 is hot and a 454 FE is next once I get some of the bugs out of the setup. I think I really need to have a straight shot.

Thanks,

Bob

 

I don't know about super high HP drivelines. Generally you want some offset so the U-joints have room to do their work, otherwise you end up with short u-joint life.

If you are determined to run with a diff inline behind the engine, it would be a lot easier to find a 9" housing (any 1/2 ton pickup in a range from '57-72 is the same width) that has the pumpkin located in the center. I put one from a 63 pickup in my '48 and it's centered. I think you should be able to come up with a bolt-in solution easier than messing with mounts.

 

the rear in the is centered, the axle shafts are the same length. If you get a newer rear end the pinion is centered. Since this is going to be a "drag truck" you would probably want a stronger rear housing than the "bango" type that is in the truck now. The "bango" type has smaller tubes 2" or 2.5", the newer housings the tubes are larger and stronger. Don't throw away your center section, it is stronger than the newer center sections, it has extra webs in front like the nodular iron center sections.

 

I think you are right Pete. I know were there a several early '60s Trucks, so I be looking into that next week.

I've got a Nodular iron 4.30 pumpkin of of a '70 Drag Pack Torino that I'll be using.

Thanks,

bob

 

Did I miss seeing what you'll be doing for front mounts? I'm curious because I've got one of those bellhousings and I've been watching ebay for a timing cover like the truck timing covers so that I can use front mount like a y-block.

454 FE? Are you stroking a 427 with a 428 crank?

BTW, I'm sure you already know this, but I just found out that early MEL 430 engines bolts up to a FE bellhousing.

The huge 2.6 inch rod journals offer the chance for a .5" offset grind on the crankshaft. I don't know if the 468 crank will fit into the early 430 block but that would make a huge engine. 529 cubic inches?

 

I'm using '66-69 Fairlane motor mounts (I had a good set of these already)and I'm going to box the frame from a line even with the rear of block's mounting holes towards the front with a 7 inch peice of 1/4 inch plate. I'm using another piece of 1/4 plate under the motor mount and will use a 2 inch 1/4 inch wall square tube between the mouting plate and the boxed frame. The square tubing will be cut away a bit for the nut and washer at the motor mount end.

I will be runninng the square tube at an angle forward to the middle of the boxed frame peice as I want a lot of room to build a set of 180 degree headers. The headers will have 2-1/8 tubes with all four center pipes crossing under the 4X4 oil pan.

The 390 will have 3X2s, the mid '70s FE SVO cam, 2.15/1.64 titianium valves I got off eBay. These will be in a set of hand ported D2TE-AA heads ( ported these years ago), factory adjustable rockers, rocker arm end stands will be upgraded. It's bored to 0.040 (TRW 10.5:1 forged pistons) making it a 398. I've got a wide and a close ratio (reworked synchro's) toploaders with Hurst shifter, and a 4.30 traction lock out of a '70 Drag Pack Torino.

The issue will be traction as the stock wheel wells don't look like I can get more than a 9 inch tire in them. Line lock is installed already.

The 454 is a 0.030 over 427 with the 428 crank, either TRW 12.5:1 pistons (reworked to 11 or so) or maybe Ross if I can find the money, Mickey Thompson Cross Ram 2X4 with a pair of Holley C3AE-BKs, either a Cam Research 0.570 lift, 290/290 duration (230/230 @ 0.050) cam or the Crane small roller hydraulic. (If I decide on the small roller, the Cam Research cam may find itself inside the 398.) Again I'll be using titianium valves but the intake valve is slightly larger 2.18 with the same 1.64 exhaust. (Sure wish I could find a larger titianium exhaust valve on Ebay.) I got a set of the very early FE heads with the fully machined combustion chambers. I'll be using the Erson Roller Rocker arm set up.

Just your basic, stock old rusty Ford F100. My gallery will be updated in a few minutes with some pictures of an old 410 in the engine compartment of the F100 that I'm using to help me mock up the mounts and headers while I build the 398.

The 462 Lincoln crank will fit in the 430. Those engines won a few NASCAR races back in the late '50s and early '60s. What rods would you use with that stroke?

Bob

 

Which rods for an offset grind 468? I haven't done enough research on the length of stock 468 rods and the deck height of the 430 to give an informed answer. My first thought is 300 I6 rods, but that's just an uninformed guess.

 

the rear end in you truck looks off center, but it realy isnt. the center section is designed with the pinion in the center of the truck, the housing looks off center but it isnt.

jim

 

You are mistaken. I've measured it and the yoke is 4.5 inches closer to the passenger side of the truck.

Bob