Would you take a quart of Delo 400 or Rotella and dump it in your brand new intercooler once every five thousand miles? Why not Ford does. Yes it is true. Ford has a better idea. Sometimes I would like to grab some engineering types by the scruff of their neck and make them pay for their incompetance.
All of you PSD owners out there lift up your hoods and look on the drivers side valve cover where the CCV breather comes out of the valve cover and plugs directly into your intake tube. All of that vapororized hot oil being pumped out of that breather is condensating in and on, everything downstream of it's injection point. This wonderful setup is costing you 12hp and reducing your inter-cooler effectiveness by as much as 20% and coating everything with oil, which collects dirt. Go look. Open up somebody's hood and see the oil sweating out the flange connectors on the turbo, the intake tubes, the inlet side of the intercooler, it's disgusting, not to mention stupid.
I fixed mine and collect 14oz of oil in my collection bottle every five thousand miles. Remember, the more miles you have on your motor, the more blow by. More blow by, more hot oil in your intake.

The El cheapo fix: $34.00 Parts list #1. 12' of 3/4"ID heater hose #2. 4' of clear 3/4"ID vinyl hose #3.one 3/4"OD straight hose connector and a 3/4"OD tee connector #4. Tye wraps #5. The collection bottle of your choice #6.A3/4" rubber cap plug (Help section at Auto Zone)

What to do: Take your intake ducting off starting at the filter side.
Undo the bolts that hold the center section to the mounting bracket.
Remove center section, clean it, cut the nub out of it that the blow
by comes out of, off.
Cap off the inlet side with your rubber plug cap (Auto Zone)
Take the straight hose connector and stick it in the Oem elbow hose come out of the valve cover and attach the heater hose to the other end and tye wrap.
Route the heater hose over the block and trans and down the side of the frame tye wrapping all the way untill you get to your fuel filler tube. Trim hose to stop around here somewhere.
Stuff loosely, some Scotch Brite into the end of the heater hose about 3" worth, this will provide the vaporized oil something to condense on.
Plug in your tee fitting and attach the vinyl hose to the other end and route up to the top of the fender well and out the factory provided hollr that is there. Look in there you'll see it. It is kind of oblong. you will have to file it round so the vinyl hose can stick out of it and exhaust into the fender well area above the tire.
Attach the bottle of your choice to the remaing side of the tee fitting so the condensated oil has a place to drain into to. I use a 6oz clear plastic bottle so I can revel in my good work.
Re assymble the intake system and you are done. Tye wrap all connections and put a tye wrap on the end of the clear vinyl hose where it pokes through the fender well so it does not retract back in.

Now you too will have a clean motor and peace of mind.
If you really want to a first class job there is The way to do it like it should be done from the factory, but it cost $200.00 in parts. If you must know Email me mrlugubrious(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

This is the nicest and cheapest HP you can do for your truck!

 

As if the diesel engine isn't getting enough of a bad rap by such organizations as the Sierra Club and other environmentally conscious groups, what you've accomplished is to render a vital part of the exhaust emissions equipment inoperative by venting crankcase gasses to the atmosphere (probably illegal in all 50 states). What is next, draining your oil down the storm sewer? How did you arrive at the 12 HP figure?

 

Incredible!!!!!!

 

Thats right I drive a diesel. A smog producing whale killing, fossil fuel burning diesel that is way too big and completely unreasonable. I love it. Maybe the Sierra group and PETA can put an emmisions device on Mnt. Pinatubo, St. Helens, Old Faithful, Jets, Pacific rift vents, etc. etc. But good old Mike Cavenaugh a registered nurse who spends his entire life helping the sick and injured is single handedly destroying whats left of the planet with his Ford PSD.
As for where I got the 12hp difference,the test bed was a 99.5 PSD with 65,000 miles, coolant temp 180F,oil temp 184F, ambient air 84F,Dyno at max load in first gear, maximum boost 19.2psi.
The same truck was run on the same Dyno in the same ambient conditions before and after re routing of CC emissions. That is where I got the 12 hp difference.
Furthermore, the el cheapo device is stop gap. If you would have read on you would have seen that I left my Email address to explain the otherway which is more costly but is the way I happen to do my truck now that the parts for the mod have came in from RAYCOR.

I use the RAYCOR CCV4500 left side intake and re route my cooled and filtered CC gases back into my Volant Cool Air Induction box, Pre filter.
If you are so worried about the environtment you should do something usefull with your short time you have on this planet.Stop with the Borderline personality traits and drive a two cylinder 300mpg vehicle. :-X11

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Apr-02 AT 11:25 AM (EST)] And Joe do not make accusations that I may be draining my oil down the sewer. I find that statement inflamatory. Take your meds and calm down.

 

I am saddened that my inflamitory remark didn't **** you off! Nothing is any more disheartening than to make a smartassed remark that misses its target (how is your sense of humor?).
Since I can't talk you out of destroying the environment, maybe I can save you some money. The Navistar engine uses a road draft tube that runs down the rear of the R/B head (you'll have to see if there is clearance between the fire wall) and attaches with 2 bolts to the back of the head. Here's what you do: Disconect and block off the vent tube that extends into the air intake horn as you described and turn the breather around backwards on the valve cover then install the road draft tube with 2 10 mm cap screws with a short piece of hose between the tube and the breather and you're done.

 

I don't feel this is a suitable topic for FTE.

alanscott
Moderator

 

OK I can buy that. I did not want to get to the part where you can turn the the whole breather around , but it is the way to go as long as you go and get the V-rings for the screws before you take it apart. The problem with that down tube is the odor wafting back up into the cab. I have seen that tube on the farm application for the Navistar. My Raycor set up really does the trick, and it looks good too. Sorry, I felt attacked.