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65 F100
I know it is pushed and turned counterclockwise to release from bezel, but mine turns slightly and won't release. I have raked plenty of hide off trying this and now I'm considering using channel locks. Any ideas before I risk destroying it? I assume the hole in the dash in which the switch goes thru, has a notch preventing the switch from spinning. This is my problem, the switch spins around making cranking the engine a two handed operation. I plan to remedy just as I did the windshield wiper knotch....rework the wallowed-out notch with my mig welder and a small grinder. Worked out great on the wiper. Thanks...Gary
As you are probably aware, need the key to remove the ignition switch. Key cylinder locks the bezel and switch together. With key in accessory position insert paper clip in the small hole in key cylinder and turn to the left. There is a spacer and spring between the bezel and ignition switch. You want to hold the bezel stationary while you turn the ignition switch.The cone shaped spacer has 3 'pig tails' that insert into 3 corresponding notches in the dash. It should not take much pressure to release the switch from the bezel.
Wonder if the key cylinder is seated properly. The cylinder can only go into the housing 1 way. However, on the end of the key cylinder there is an elongated pin that inserts into corresponding slot in the housing. This is where the key is needed both for removing and installing the ignition switch. Need to rotate the cylinder until the pin on the cylinder lines up with the slot in the housing.
Not sure if going over familiar stuff, or any help. Likely other members will post additional info., or suggestions.
good luck,
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; May 9, 2004 at 03:11 AM.
I would say yes. You can use a drill bit to remove the cylinder but then have a problem with the metal shavings getting into the switch mechanism. You can disassemble the switch to clean the shavings, but difficult to reassemble. Majority of the Ford parts suppliers carry the switch costing between $15 to $20. You may want to call autozone, have seen the switch in their online catalog for $7, no picture. Would want to tele to confirm proper replacement.
Don't count on Autozone for a switch, I bought the door lock cylinders from them which were supposed to fit, but did not. I didn't have a key to the doors, but I took one of the old cylinders to a locksmith shop, and had new keys made, cheaper than the new cylinders that didn't fit.
Ok I have a 93 Explorer... My ignition key is starting to get jammed in the off position so I am trying to replace the ignition lock cylinder before it quits for the last time... I have tilt steering colum. I am wondering, do I need to remove the steering wheel to change the lock cylinder? I took the shroud off and the pin I am supposed to be pushing to remove the ignition switch is not exposed. Is there any way I can get around removing my wheel and ripping the collum apart? and if not, how do I dissable my air bag?
Sorry, not familiar with the later model vehicle ignition systems. Believe read in the electrical forum of member who posted simular question. May want to run a search under 'ignition switch' and see if any help. If the search does not help, it may give you an indication where to post the topic if none of the members in this forum can assist.
Good luck,
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; May 13, 2004 at 10:48 AM.
Dave, I removed my ignition switch without the key. I had to sacrifice the bezel But I used a 1 1/4 hole saw which fit perfectly around the raised area on the bezel and the whole works fell right out.
This is good to know, I'll put it down on list of options in removing the ignition switch. Can't get too much input on alternative ways of getting these trucks on the road. Thanks for the info., hopefully, do not have to deal with ignition switch issue again, but ya never know.
If you have to drill out the switch, disconnect the battery or get rid of the witnesses! Is kinda funny that it started but we had no way to shut it off. Yank the coil wire then yank the battery cable before rolling on floor laughing!
To kill the engine from under the hood, pull the ignition wire (I) off the starter relay and hold it to the starter cable to "ground" the ignition system through the starter and kill the engine.
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