Sludge monster!
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Sludge monster!
I just bought a 75 F100 wtih a 360. It was seriously neglected for a lot of years, but for $150 I can't complain.
The air filter, oil and oil filter wasn't changed for a lot of years, so the motor is full of crusty sludge. How do I remove that sludge with out plugging up all the oil passages, or should I just give up and rebuild.
It seems to have a melted valve on cyclinder 1, so I have to rebuild the top end anyways, but I was hoping to avoid rebuilding the whole motor. While I do that I'm going to a aluminum intake and 4-barrel carb. It seems pointless to have dual exhaust and headers with a motorcrap 2100 on top.
The air filter, oil and oil filter wasn't changed for a lot of years, so the motor is full of crusty sludge. How do I remove that sludge with out plugging up all the oil passages, or should I just give up and rebuild.
It seems to have a melted valve on cyclinder 1, so I have to rebuild the top end anyways, but I was hoping to avoid rebuilding the whole motor. While I do that I'm going to a aluminum intake and 4-barrel carb. It seems pointless to have dual exhaust and headers with a motorcrap 2100 on top.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Littleton, CO
Some folks have run a quart of tranny fliud through the mix with the regular oil. There are more detergents in there. When you change the oil, add a quart as a replacement and run it for some miles, then drain and fill with regular oil.
--Mike
--Mike
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
I'd suggest using a diesel rated oil, one that has the CH-4 / CI-4 / SL ratings. This will keep your engine clean. Look at the picture of the two fuel pumps in my '70 F-100 gallery for an example of how clean this will get it.
Avoid engine flush additives, with that much sludge you could end up breaking an oil pump shaft when some sludge stops up the oil pump. You want to remove it slowly and carefully, that's what the diesel rated oil will do for you.
I use Mystik JT-8 Super Heavy Duty 10w30. Some other names to look for are Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, and Mobil Delvac.
Avoid engine flush additives, with that much sludge you could end up breaking an oil pump shaft when some sludge stops up the oil pump. You want to remove it slowly and carefully, that's what the diesel rated oil will do for you.
I use Mystik JT-8 Super Heavy Duty 10w30. Some other names to look for are Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, and Mobil Delvac.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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Using the Diesel rated oil works excellent for removing sludge. It usually takes care of it in about 3 to 4 oil changes. Also checka and make sure the engine has a thermostat in in, the detergents in the Diesel oil dont do very well at low temp.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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I've never run any of the synthetic oils for the diesels, expensive. Always ran Delo or Delvac, whichever I can get a deal on. I put it in everything except the stuff that calls for 5-20.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
I hear ya on the expensiveness of the synthetics. I'm sure they're great oils; they've got the premium diesel additives. I just dont feel like spending that much when I can get great results from what I'm using; just look at the fuel pump picture in my '70 F-100 album. I mean, when they want $5.00 / quart for the Delvac 1, it's like, um, yeah. Whatever. 
FWIW, I buy my Mystik on sale at the local Farm&Fleet for $0.95 / quart. It isn't on sale at that price for very long, so I stock up. Goes back up to about $1.50 / quart when it's not on sale.
FWIW, I buy my Mystik on sale at the local Farm&Fleet for $0.95 / quart. It isn't on sale at that price for very long, so I stock up. Goes back up to about $1.50 / quart when it's not on sale.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
Use a good oil filter. A MotorCraft filter is good. Purolator PurOne is another. Do not use Fram.
After the valve job, flush the cooling system and boil the radiator and then use a 195 themostat. Be sure to remove the block drains and wash out as much scale as you can. Don't forget to back-wash the heater core. It needs to flow for the thermostat to work right.
After the valve job, flush the cooling system and boil the radiator and then use a 195 themostat. Be sure to remove the block drains and wash out as much scale as you can. Don't forget to back-wash the heater core. It needs to flow for the thermostat to work right.
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Joined: May 2004
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I find that synthetics are cheaper! Or at least I don't have to change it as often. I only change my oil/filter every 15,000 miles.
Check out this study:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Here is some good info on filters:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
After reading that I went out and bought the Pep Boys generic Proline filters for $2-3 for all of my vehicles.
Check out this study:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Here is some good info on filters:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
After reading that I went out and bought the Pep Boys generic Proline filters for $2-3 for all of my vehicles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
-sigh- 
And you want to remove sludge? Extended drain intervals are not the way to do it. Usually 3000 miles is when you want to change it to achieve maximum sludge removal.
-insert rant-
Since you're new here, I'll let you in on a little secret. 360's trash oil. Quick. They take it, grind it up, and spit it out (literally - they like to leak too). I have seen plenty of junkyard 360's that were sludged up; and I have a parts engine out in the garage that is a perfect example of this. It had a rod bearing that was shredded up in the bottom of the oil pan. Sludge is not harmless. There's a reason they call it the black death. Get it out of there ASAP.
-end rant-
If you plan on extending your drain intervals on that FE, you're asking for big time trouble. Quick. No matter what oil you use.
And you want to remove sludge? Extended drain intervals are not the way to do it. Usually 3000 miles is when you want to change it to achieve maximum sludge removal.
-insert rant-
Since you're new here, I'll let you in on a little secret. 360's trash oil. Quick. They take it, grind it up, and spit it out (literally - they like to leak too). I have seen plenty of junkyard 360's that were sludged up; and I have a parts engine out in the garage that is a perfect example of this. It had a rod bearing that was shredded up in the bottom of the oil pan. Sludge is not harmless. There's a reason they call it the black death. Get it out of there ASAP.
-end rant-
If you plan on extending your drain intervals on that FE, you're asking for big time trouble. Quick. No matter what oil you use.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,610
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From: Northwest, Arkansas
Might not be wise to try and clean it up. If it is that abused then cleaning out the gunk will probably create more problems and poor engine performance. Also I would agree with "rusty70f100" the 360 was not that good of an engine. Best bet would be to overhaul the engine or better yet find a good truck 390 and drop it in.
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I plan on doing 2-3 oil changes in the next few months (1-3K miles). I bought a case of el cheapo oil just for that reason and probably a quart of ATF for each change.
I probably won't run synthetics in this motor until it sees a rebuild.
This 360 looses to much oil to put expensive synthetics in it.
I probably won't run synthetics in this motor until it sees a rebuild.
This 360 looses to much oil to put expensive synthetics in it.
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I hear you fordborn. I already started shopping for a rebuildable 390. "There is no replacement for displacement".
Why is the 360 so bad? I thought the 390 and the 360 were the same motor with a shorter stroke (pistons, rods, and crank).
Why is the 360 so bad? I thought the 390 and the 360 were the same motor with a shorter stroke (pistons, rods, and crank).