Brake equalizer bracket
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Washington
Brake equalizer bracket
The parking brake on my 1978 f150 4x4 is missing all parts between the pedal and the rear cables. I've been able to find the front cable, brake to floor seal, cable clips, and equalizer (adjustment) rod. That leaves one thing: the equalizer bracket (where the single cable becomes two).
I have checked the links up on top. The only place that seems to have a bracket (the Bronco Graveyard) says the one they have doesn't fit (it's for a 66-77 Bronco). Actually, they said they don't have one for my truck even though I asked if the Bronco one would fit.
Also checked Dennis Carpenter, NPD, NAPA. Seems all of the other parts are available to rebuild the entire brake system except for this little metal bracket!!
Anyone know where else I can check? Or know of something that might work?
I have checked the links up on top. The only place that seems to have a bracket (the Bronco Graveyard) says the one they have doesn't fit (it's for a 66-77 Bronco). Actually, they said they don't have one for my truck even though I asked if the Bronco one would fit.
Also checked Dennis Carpenter, NPD, NAPA. Seems all of the other parts are available to rebuild the entire brake system except for this little metal bracket!!
Anyone know where else I can check? Or know of something that might work?
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From: Washington
Hey Mil1on, I guess I could have been clearer...
When I wrote "I have checked the links up on top." I meant that I had checked the sponsors. Doh!
I just ordered the OEM cdrom manuals from Motorhaven. Also looked at the reference in the FAQ for this forum that discusses decoding part numbers. Macs Auto has the following part no. in one of their diagrams that includes the equalizer rod: C6AZ-2A602-A. But after reading the faq reference it looks to me that would be the wrong part for this truck (C6 = 1966, and A = Mustang). Arrggh.
I need to get part numbers somehow so I can at least figure out if another part will work.
When I wrote "I have checked the links up on top." I meant that I had checked the sponsors. Doh!
I just ordered the OEM cdrom manuals from Motorhaven. Also looked at the reference in the FAQ for this forum that discusses decoding part numbers. Macs Auto has the following part no. in one of their diagrams that includes the equalizer rod: C6AZ-2A602-A. But after reading the faq reference it looks to me that would be the wrong part for this truck (C6 = 1966, and A = Mustang). Arrggh.
I need to get part numbers somehow so I can at least figure out if another part will work.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Mine was rusted out 
I had to make one.
take two pieces of 1/8"x3/4" flatstock cut 5"s long
with it clamped in a vise, drill a 3/8" hole in the center of both.
use a angle grinder to cut 2 slots in both pieces that goes to the center. these should be spaced the same as the cables as they come out of the crossmember.
now take one of the pieces and drill 2 1/4" holes at the ends of the slots.
clamp the 2 pieces together so the center holes and the slots line up and weld it around the edges.
your front cable bolts to and adjusts this through the center hole. the side with the 2 1/4" holes faces the front of the truck. connect your rear cables to this by sliding them into the slot. The cable ends will seat in the holes drilled in the front piece when you tighten the front cable.
its only been on about a week, but it seems strong enough.
I had to make one.
take two pieces of 1/8"x3/4" flatstock cut 5"s long
with it clamped in a vise, drill a 3/8" hole in the center of both.
use a angle grinder to cut 2 slots in both pieces that goes to the center. these should be spaced the same as the cables as they come out of the crossmember.
now take one of the pieces and drill 2 1/4" holes at the ends of the slots.
clamp the 2 pieces together so the center holes and the slots line up and weld it around the edges.
your front cable bolts to and adjusts this through the center hole. the side with the 2 1/4" holes faces the front of the truck. connect your rear cables to this by sliding them into the slot. The cable ends will seat in the holes drilled in the front piece when you tighten the front cable.
its only been on about a week, but it seems strong enough.
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From: Washington
Torque1st: Thanks for answering a question I was wondering about. It didn't seem to make sense that Ford would renumber all of their parts according to vehicle model. When I do a search online I keep on seeing that part number (C6AZ-2A602-A) come up at Mustang parts places. So I'm wondering if that will fit. Might just have to order one and see, I guess.
oldhalftons: I was keeping the thought of fabrication on hold. But it's good to see that someone else has gone down the same road and concluded that fabbing a new one would be easiest. I think the part would be much stronger if you could use at least one or two pieces of angle iron or U channel material in the design. This shape: ][ is much stronger than |. If that makes sense. The flat piece will want to bend in the middle as you apply force via the cable. Guess I may as well order that MiG welder that I was thinking I might need to fix the gaping hold in the driver's side floor pan! Need some practice.
Also, it looks like there is supposed to be a spring in there as well. "Lever return spring" it says in the Haynes book. Did you make a provision for that too?
oldhalftons: I was keeping the thought of fabrication on hold. But it's good to see that someone else has gone down the same road and concluded that fabbing a new one would be easiest. I think the part would be much stronger if you could use at least one or two pieces of angle iron or U channel material in the design. This shape: ][ is much stronger than |. If that makes sense. The flat piece will want to bend in the middle as you apply force via the cable. Guess I may as well order that MiG welder that I was thinking I might need to fix the gaping hold in the driver's side floor pan! Need some practice.
Also, it looks like there is supposed to be a spring in there as well. "Lever return spring" it says in the Haynes book. Did you make a provision for that too?
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Spokane WA
Its just a light spring that pulls the equalizer toward the crossmember that the cables mount in.
I just matched it up to a spring at a hardware store. I did the same for the 2 springs that they used to route the cables with.
I just matched it up to a spring at a hardware store. I did the same for the 2 springs that they used to route the cables with.
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From: Washington
Originally Posted by oldhalftons
I did the same for the 2 springs that they used to route the cables with.
By the way, thanks for the measurements in your first post.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Spokane WA
the other 2 springs are just really hangers.
the pass side one clips to the frame and keeps the cable away from the exhaust, the drivers side one just keeps the longer rear cable from swinging around.
the pass side one clips to the frame and keeps the cable away from the exhaust, the drivers side one just keeps the longer rear cable from swinging around.
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