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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Motor Swapping question???

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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:23 AM
  #1  
rwahlers's Avatar
rwahlers
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Motor Swapping question???

I'm about to drop a 302 in my 67 F100. It had a 6 cylinder. I tried to use the motor mounts from the truck that had the 302 in it (79 F-150) but it just wouldn't line up. My question is what kind of motor mounts do I need. Someone said I needed a motormount kit for that model. I went to an auto parts place and they said they haven't heard of kits for a 67 F100.

If there is any mount kits out there where can I get it from?

Thanks,
Ronald
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 10:42 AM
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banjopicker66
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From: Coal country
Ron: Check the location of the '79 perches in the '79 truck.
On your truck, there should be and extra set of holes to mount them, and the perches should be moved back or forward of what you have now. Probably backward.
If not, you can drill them.
The other option might be to move the transmission forward or rearward by relocating the transmission crossmember. Check for the extra holes in the frame.
I haven't done this swap myself, but others who have done it have said they needed to move the perches or the rear cross member.
Hope this helps!
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:17 PM
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Lots of junkers in the salvage yards had 302's in them from that model(1967-1972), go there and get a set of original mounts for $5.
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:03 AM
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shrike
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From: Georgia
go with n2music's suggestion, I'm a converted chevy man, and don't know a great deal about fords but I'm learning, however, I had to do a swap like yours on a brand x truck. the problem was that on later models the frame got wider so the later model motor mounts and supports wouldn't work, i had to go to the salvage yard and get mounts from a truck as close to the year as my truck that had a V8. The only thing that I don;t agree with in n2music's statement is the $5 part, if you have to go a salvage yard and I'm not saying this will happen to you, but as soon as I told them what I was doing and what parts I needed, the parts were instantly made of gold, this was from a few salvage yards, I finally found a set from a friends father who has a salvage yard, I got them for $20 compared to $60 else where. Good luck.
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 05:04 AM
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From: Butner,NC
The perches you have from the 79 (73-79) will work in your 67 (67-72) and since you already have them I'd use them. I did this swap in my 69 with a 351W and used perches from a 76 302. You will find (2) holes on the top that line up but you will have to drill (1) hole on the bottom. I mounted the rubber mounts and then the perches to the block then lowered it into the frame to get the correct location; took about 5 minutes.
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stroker393
The perches you have from the 79 (73-79) will work in your 67 (67-72) and since you already have them I'd use them. I did this swap in my 69 with a 351W and used perches from a 76 302. You will find (2) holes on the top that line up but you will have to drill (1) hole on the bottom. I mounted the rubber mounts and then the perches to the block then lowered it into the frame to get the correct location; took about 5 minutes.

That's what I like to here STROKER. but...

I looked for extra holes but only found extras on the bottom not top. I mounted the mounts from the 79 to 67 in the same holes that the 67 came out from the top and you are right, I have to drill 2 holes on the left bottom side and one hole on the right bottom. The problem there is that if I do that the mounts don't line up correctly. The motor would be in at an angle.

I may have to do what you said at the end of your message. But I don't think it would take me 5 minutes maybe more like 1 day since I don't have realible help. just myself most of the time.

Thanks for the reply guys,
Ronald
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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From: Butner,NC
On my 69 the drivers side perch is bolted in the top (2) oem holes and the passenger side perch is bolted at the top with (1) hole forward of the perch open. With only the perches bolted in the angle will look off to mount engine but try bolting your rubber/steel motor mounts up to them based on the relation of how they bolt to the block and you will see that the drivers side is more forward than the passengers but your engine will line up straight.
 
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Old May 26, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by stroker393
On my 69 the drivers side perch is bolted in the top (2) oem holes and the passenger side perch is bolted at the top with (1) hole forward of the perch open. With only the perches bolted in the angle will look off to mount engine but try bolting your rubber/steel motor mounts up to them based on the relation of how they bolt to the block and you will see that the drivers side is more forward than the passengers but your engine will line up straight.

Thanks STROKER that did it, but.......

My delimma now is the transmission. I tried to put the packaged motor and trans in all together but my boom just wouldn't coroperate with me. So I had to drop the engine in first and then try to get the trans in from underneath. That wouldn't work because the housing was to big around to fit in between the crosmember and the firewall.

What should I do now? Do I need a different transmission? The 79 F-150 that it came out of was a long bed and my 67 is a shortbed and my 67 had an manual tranny does this have anything to do with my problem?

FYI... As ya'll can tell I'm not a Mechanic.

Thanks,
Ronnie
 
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Old May 27, 2004 | 05:24 AM
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stroker393
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From: Butner,NC
I had some what the same problem in bolting in a 4 spd toploader for my 69 shortbed. It fit but the front tranny cross member directly behind the bellhousing area in which I didn't need would not allow me to run the hooker super comp headers that I had, so I remove it. This fix may not apply in your case but look and see if you can get by with just the tranny tail shaft cross member to mount your transmission. Hope this helped you; let us all know how it turns out.
 
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