When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
on the 73 that i just got, only the speedometer works, but none of the other guages, or even the dash lights work, the connector was plugged in and didn't look harmed, but still doesn't work. is it possible that the entire instrument panel is bad? or is there a hidden fuse of fusible link(did they even use fuseable links that far back?) that i dont know about?
muscle,
The foil conductor wrap around the back of the IP can get folded and loose contact with the plug. It's pretty common. This is my guess. Dissassemble the IP and inspect the plastic conductor sheet. Carefully push the conductor wrap into the IP and reassemble.
Secondly, if you ground either your temp or oil sending unit wire to ground it should peg the gage. This is a quick way to tell if you have power.
Good Luck.
KingFisher
yesterday i tried grounding the gas guage to see if it was the guage or sender and the guage didnt do anything, and i had the ip out and looked at the circuit, didn't see much(i dont remember any cracks or breaks in it), although at that time i didn't know exactly what to look for. i wont be able to get to it again untill tomarrow afternoon, but will check it out. also,where could i stick a test light to see if its getting power?
You might want to get a wiring diagram from the online store here. They don't cost much, around $8. If you want diagrams and service info there are OEM service manuals available also.
I think the main wire for the lights is the blue and red one. (correct me if Im wrong). I had the same problem on mine and thats what I remember checking to make sure I had power. My IP was cracked real bad and the lights wouldnt keep contact. Also on my gas gauges the foil was bent back and lost contact with the plug. The blue and red wire runs from the plug in the back of head light switch, you should be able to trace it from there.
Haynes for these trucks have what you need as far a wiring goes, yet they arent as good as say a modern Mitchell manual or Alldata, but then Fords werent that easy to read either back then. Yeah you gotta know how to read them.
I took the cluster out, unplugged the large harness, then turned the headlights on, which in turn the interior gauge lights should come on, then used my test light to see if there was any power getting to the metal "tongs" on the end of the harness. I ended up having to replace the "mylar" plastic backing that contains the metal components that delivers the power to the twist in bulb sockets. For some reason if one of the bulbs that provides the lighting (not blinkers or brake indicator) is shot the other one wouldn't work with my panel. Make sure you have good bulbs.
As for the complexity of the service manuals...errr, I ordered them anyway before I read the replies above. I'm interested in getting them not just for wiring diagrams but for everything else too (primarily).
I got the mylar backing off of the back of a cluster on an econoline van that has the same guage setup. I do believe that the mylar thing came on many, many trucks and vans. Probably any of the mid 70's early 80's trucks and vans should have one. I even think that mine came out of a 90's model econoline van. Just make sure the guage cluster is practically the same.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.