New to this forum, and found no stickies or search feature...so sorry if this is old hat...

I have a 90 XL 3.0 5sp shorty.

The other day, coming home from work, I hear a flapping sound coming from the drivers side front end - sounds almost like a flat tire...loud enough to hear over the radio...then, after about 4 seconds, it dies out...

I figure no problem, and keep driving. I'm, thinking probably just a bag in the road caught in the wheels well, or something...

I get off at my exit, and begin to brake, and the engine dies...it starts back up again...but doesn't want to idle...able to get it home, cause it'll run if you accelerate on it...

Knowing the car was due for a tune up, get a ride to the parts house, and get a new PCV, plugs, wires, cap, rotor & fuel filter - oil had just been changed, and the air filter was changed then.

After getting these installed this weekend, I try the van, and it STILL won't idle...runs rough, dies after a couple of seconds...

We try the timing, because it sounds like it's retarded...nope, no go. Double-check all the wires, etc.....even clean the thottle plate, the IAV, everything.

There are no codes flashing from the "Check Engine Light", as it not even coming on...i don't have a code reader, either...

It has been mentioned to us that it could be the EGR valve...however, we cannot find the EGR valve. We really need to get the van running as it is the primary people hauler, and my work vehicle is in the shop getting a new transmission.

Any help or suggestions are welcome.

 

Not all models have an EGR valve.

The first thing I'd look for is a loose vacuum hose. I'm more familiar with the 4.0L engine. There is a vacuum tree near the driver's side rear of the engine. Several hoses attach to it. If one pops off...and it does happen...you have idle problems. Perhaps one of you hoses came off and was flaping around.

The changed the way the forum looks. It took me a little looking to find the search function. I kept getting the search for the entire forum not just the aerostar. Look for the "Search This Forum" rather then the "Search" button near the top.

 

Welp, we found the vacuum tree, and checked it, and found no problems there...

This morning, my wife went out to try and start it...it would crank, but not catch or start...

My father went over, and looked at it, and he said he thinks it could be a timing chain...we're getting a house-call mechanic to look at it, and give us his opinion...

still open to opinions and suggestions...

 

OK, update:

After some more extensive troubleshooting, we've narrowed it down - the timing chain jump time...that was the source of the slapping sound I heard...so now I get to replace the timing chain...Oh Joy!

 

well, due to time limitations, and being sick, the chain hasn't been replaced yet, but I do have everything else tore down, EXCEPT the crank pulley and harmonic balancer and the timing cover. then it's just a matter of pulling the old chain, aligning the timing marks of the gears, and bolting everything back into place.

Let's hope this works...

 

Hi max..

just a little tip...when you replace the timing gears, make sure the hole through the cam gear bolt is clear and not clogged...this hole is how the cam gear gets lubed...it may be part of the reason the old gear wore down enough to jump time.

good luck !

 

Thanks...I'll keep that in mind...

I'm having fun, as one of the pulley bolts holding the pulley to the damper are frozen on, and refuse to come off...it's really ****ing me off.

 

Universal engineering solution: "If it moves, WD-40 it. If it doesn't, RTV it!"

 

With that philosophy, though, where does duct tape and the hammer come in?

 

There is always the nut-splitter and a piece of pipe solution ......

 

well, if there wasnt about 3" of depth to overcome, that might be an option...

 

Are you having problem because you couldn't hold the pulley/damper stationary while turning the bolt? Or has the bolt head been damaged?

 

both, actually. The head has MINOR rounding on the top. The damper, etc, will not stay stationary, either...

The problem comes from having to use an extension to reach the bolt, and when ever you apply torque to the ratchet, the extension allows it to walk off the bolt, which resulted in the Minor rounding effect. This was after being able to hold the damper steady enough to pull/push on the ratchet...

 

You may have to pull the starter and ask someone you don't like very much to stick a screwdriver in there to jam the flywheel. If the flywheel doesn't move, the damper doesn't move either. Then you have both hands to keep the socket on straight and turn the driver at the same time. You would eventually have to do that to remove the very BIGGGG bolt that holds the damper to the crankshaft, so you might as well do it now and save yourself some grief. Also, use six-sided sockets on the bolts, not the 12-sided ones. Those can damage the bolt heads very easily.

Good luck

 

Actually I use the 12 point sockets instead of the 6 with different results. The 6 point sockets fit looser on the bolt and will damage the head faster. I have removed 3 pullies and balancers and have yet to remove the starter or damage any of the bolts. All you have to do is get a pipe wrench to hold the pully stationary. You want to loosen the bolts partially and then loosen the large crank bolt. Then after you get the pully off you can use the harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer. When you put it back on, be sure not to beat on the center of the balancer. Once you get it on partially, you can use the crank bolt to put it back on. Good luck, hope it all turns out well.