Last year I won a 1986 Ford Bronco 4x4 in a raffle. I am now preparing to enter it back into service since my existing van just died but am having problems with the carb (351ci). I believe it's the accelorator pump since it only stalls when applying a decent amount of gas. I am looking for a decent direct bolt on replacement such as an edelbrock or such. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm also sensing some tranny slipage and am assuming that's going next. Would it be better to get a used tranny or rebuild this one? I got a rebuild estimate of about $1200 (*ouch*). It's a solid truck and I love the way it drives so I want to make it a bit more reliable. Thanks.

-Eric

 

Check the vin# to confirm if you have the regular 351W and 2bbl carb, or the 351W HO and 4bbl. Holley. If you don't know how to decode the vin#, just post it here and we can decode it. The 8th character will either be "G" or "H", respectively.

It definitely sound like the accel. pump problem common to the 4 bbl. Holley's, but could be a choke or fuel pump defect.

You have a choice of an overhaul kit for the carb, buying a reman. carb of same model, or an aftermarket carb. If it is/looks like the original, factory unit, an overhaul may not do the trick as the carb body can be damaged. I have a reman. Holley #4180, but you have the option of an Edelbrock #1400 series as a direct bolt-in replacement. I have an EDL #1405 on my '85 Chevy K10 truck. You can also look at the Holley Street Avenger or Truck Avenger series carbs. It all depends on your driving conditions, but anything around a 600cfm is what you should look for.

Check your door jamb for the transmission code to see if you have a C-6 3-speed auto (code K) or other. A rebuilt C-6 is about $600, so you might be getting raked over the coals if the shop is charging $1200.

Consider yourself lucky for winning anything in a raffle, but a 1986 Bronco??? Gots to know what that was about!!!

I will be glad to help out with any questions, JSM84

 

Okay the VIN is 1FMDU15H3GLA76178 so it looks like I have the 4bbl. The tranny code is 'K'. As far as my driving preferences, I need to get the best mileage I can out of this since I will be commuting with it.

The story on the truck goes as such: I was visiting with the in-laws up in Elko Nevada last year. We were at a race track watching some amateur class racing and they were having a raffle for a few items. I bought a raffle ticket, signed it, and left it with the in-laws. Three months later I got a call stating that I had won and to please come get the truck ASAP. It used to belong to the red cross, so it's county 'cream' color fitted with a spotlight to boot. ITdoesan't have any real bells and whistles besides A/C (which still works fairly well). I imagine it was well maintained but has over 120k on it. It made it back to California and has been stored for quite some time.

My wife thinks I'm crazy, but theres just something about this truck that makes me want to fix it up. It just feels strong on the road and I enjoy driving it. I'm hoping not to head down the road of endless repairs.

 

Wow, what kind of luck charm do you carry? That sounds like a good vehicle, even for a daily driver. Based on my experience with the "Holley Bomb" 4bbl. on the 351W H.O., you are better off replacing it completely with an aftermarket carb like the EdelBrock/ Carter or Holley Truck Avenger. The original carb is a Holley #4180, and it is about $750 new from Ford. A remanufactured unit is $350 from any auto parts store. ( I traded for mine, but am saving up for the EDL). If you have electric choke, look for the Edelbrock 1400 series which is a EDL #1406. The manual choke version is the EDL #1405. This is a 600cfm carb that lists for about $210-$240, but you will need the tranny kickdown linkage kit. Total cost will be about $300. The HLY Truck Avenger is about $430. It's selling point is the ability to handle inclines and not flood out or stall. It's rated at 670cfm.

The Holley carbs are more difficult to adjust at first, but once they are set you can go and forget'em. The Edelbrock carb is a quick install and set-up, but seems to need attention more often. If you have electric choke , make sure the power lead is working, or you will think the carb is at fault. Same goes for other things like the fule pump, ignition timing, etc. Most of the problems I've had have not been the carb's fault in either truck!

 

Thanks for the info. I think I'll go with the EDL carb since I don't think I'll find myself on many steep inclines. When you mention $600 on the tranny, you were referring to purchasing a rebuilt tranny or having one rebuilt? If I can pick one up for $600, it's a done deal. Where does one go about finding a good rebuilt transmission?

 

Just visit the Edelbrock website for more info on their carbs, but the #1406 is a good one.

I was quoted $600 for an overhaul of my original C-6, and you can check your local classifieds for a rebuilt or good used one for $300-$400. The hard part is finding a good tranny shop that won't gouge you. You may talk to 3 that will charge you $1000, but the fourth will tell you if it's needed or not. May only need a new filter or valve body. Get estimates and refences if you have to. The one I deal with, I've known for 20 years and they've treated me right. I have over 200,000 miles on my tranny, and all I needed was to adjust the shift linkage. I just asked what if...

 

I spoke with the folks at edelbrock and they suggested sticking with a remanufactured carb of the same type (approx $305) since it would literally bolt right on (they said the EDL would require some fitting and tweaking to get it to work). I'm not an expert by any means with carberation. Would I be more likely to have the same problems in the futire with a reman'd holley 4bbl? Or should I just purchase the parts and pay a professional mechanic to do the install.

 

Vectrex, put a Transgo shift kit in that C-6. Mine was sliding into second gear and I put that kit in it and drove it another 100,000.

My opinion is the carb you have is an excellent one. Rebuilding them is a piece of cake. It's a Holley made for Ford. Look on the air intake at the choke housing and it will give you the list number. Should be an 1850 or something like that.

Replacing the accelerator pump is as easy as changing a sparkplug. Why toss it?

 

Actually, the slippage is occurring between 2nd and 3rd and is REALLY bad. I'm not sure if the transgo kit will help.

The accelerator pump is located on the underside of the carberator which must be removed to change out. I do think it may be a good interim solution until I can afford a good carb or until this one completely dies. I will change t out tomorrow and see if it remedies my problem. The local wrecking yard has a used C-6 tranny for $450, but for that, I might as well remove mine and send it in for rebuilding.

 

The reman. Holley #4180 will be a direct replacement for the one you have now, but you may have the same problem down the road. You can just buy a Holley overhaul kit for about $50 ( don't get the cheapie import kits-the gaskets won't fit right) and will be fine until the carb wears out again or the gaskets go bad. The Edelbrock or any other aftermarket carb will need a little work to install, mainly dealing with the kickdown linkage. It's not rocket science, though. If you aslo change the intake manifold at the same time, it will get rid of alot of the vacuum lines, and you will get more power than the stock intake. That may be something a mechanic would do for you at the same time he's installing a new carb. One final point, on my reman. carb, it has an occaisional "hissy fit" and tries to stall out on cold days right after startup. After a few choice words, it goes back to normal and runs fine 98% of the time!

 

Vec,

The fuel bowel has the accelerator pump on it. Remove it, not the carb!
My tranny slipped the same way, I tell you the shift kit will do the job!

 

Well, I replaced the accel pump and it didn't help. It starts and runs the engine just fine. Even revs up to high rpms in neutral for the most part. The second I put it in gear and hit the gas it dies instantly. It's difficult to start after stalling, takes a few tries.

-Eric

 

VEC, Try this:
Take the cap off of the distributor so you you can see the pivot plate the reluctor sensor is mounted to. Now, pull off the vacuum hose that goes to the vacuum diaphragm from the vacuum port it's hooked to on the manifold. Suck on the hose and see if the plate in the distributor rotates. If it doesn't you have a perforated diaphragm and you will need to replace it. Twist the pivot plate manually to be sure it's not frozen in place. If it doesn't move then the diaphragm may not be the problem, try to free up the plate. Also, check the arm in the diaphragm to make sure it didn't pop of the pivot plate pin.

Now, if it moves when you suck on it, put your tongue over the end of the hose to hold the vacuum.

Watch the pivot plate, if it slowly returns to it's original position, the vacuum is leaking and it's most likely a bad diaphragm.

 

i bought a 600 holley used off ebay and had the same problem vec is having. the air and fuel were not aspirating properly and it caused it to backfire and bog down. i threw that one away and slapped a new barry grant rd demon jr on there. i love that carb it was so simple to adjust and put on. you can but them with electric choke and the ford kickdown linkage for about 280$ thats in the 625 cfm. it is an awsome carb and will continue to use BG. just my 2cents

 

I've got a Holley 600 on my 85 with a 460. It still works like a champ. These carbs are extremely reliable and easy to rebuild.

Besides, I think he has eliminated the carb as the problem, assuming he doesn't have a large gap betwen the accelerator plunger and the linkage. Too much travel in the linkage before it begins to squirt into the throats will allow the butterflys to open too much and it will fall on its face.