can anyone tell me where I can find this? I am installing a remote start system and need this signal.

 

Astroflex makes remote car starters under the name astrostart,they have a diesel engine tach sensor model dts-2 part number 310-066-502,it mounts to the outside case of the alternater,with a zip tie,or you have to go to the back of the guages to pick up the factory tach signal.

 

Astro, does this mean that the tach signal for the diesel is found at the alternator if one doesn't have a tach guage installed?
I'm trying to install an alarm system with remote start and the system requires a tach signal input.

 

unit5alive stated a certain brand remote start, and their instructions and modifications for their remote start system. What brand of remote start do you have, and what is their solution to a vehicle with no ignition? Look for the manufacturer online, and see if they have an adapter or something to hook it up. I also thought you had to have a special remote start for diesels, which incorporates a glow plug or manifold heater system timer, which is usually required for a diesel to start.

 

Franklin,
I'm going to try to install an Audiovox Prestige APS996C with remote start and it has the wait to start features needed for Deisel. Infact there are 2 methods of programing the wait to start with this system; 1. being a specific control wire connected into the wait to start light circuit or 2. an option in programing the remote with 4 different wait periods, in seconds, before the starter circuitry is initialized. If using option 1, then the 2nd option, even if programmed in, is bypassed using the vehicles own wait to start circuitry.
But this is seperate from what I need. The system requires a tach input signal regardless of gasoline or deisel applications and I can't seem to find a spot to pull it from. The 2002 E350 Ford wiring diagrams manual (official ford maintenance manual) says that the usual tach signal pin in the PCM (#48) is, in deisel applications, a direct signal from the IDM pin #4. I believe the reference there to tach signal is for other engine applications...not deisel ??When I access remote start info from WireMagic documents specific for my vehicle it says the tach signal is obtainable from the alternator connector. But surely there is a better spot to get the tach signal from on an E350 PSD.
Audiovox doesn't offer any vehicle particular info for installations of their products, I've spoken with Circuit City roadshop guys and they are hesitant to help since they do the installations for $$...a call to the store manager with a mention of returning the product got me the WireMagic info

 

I went to audiovox.com and they had a customer service section where you could write in and ask a question. I am guessing they need the tach signal to verify the engine actually started, so maybe it doesn't matter where it gets it from.

 

yea I filled out one of those request thingies. no answers yet but likely they'll refer me to an authorized installation vendor which would put me back at passing Go

Ya'd think that a test connection somewhere on the van would give the tach signal.. but I can't find one..

 

What year model is it?

Edit, never mind I think I see you have a 2002. Ill see if I can identify which wire at the PCM you need, but if I recall right it is a light green with white stripe.

 

The F350 PSD uses pin 19 at the PCM which is LG/WH. The same pin on the E350 is only labeled signal, and I would bet that is the pin you need. It is colored Wh/PK. With the engine running test that wire and see if you get a rapid pulse signal.

 

Thx Homer, you may be on to it.
One of the downloaded remote start system installation charts for wiring connections indicates a Wh/Pk wire at the CTO test connector (what ever that is) for tach signal but I believe that chart is for gas engine econolines not the Diesel.
My ford wiring diagram manual says that wire from the PCM (pin 19) "ends in harness". I wonder if that means the wire just dies somewhere in the bundle.

Question about signal testing. what setting on a voltmeter would I use to test for a rapid pulse? and what would be the best way to find a wire in a bundle that just ends, without cutting open the bundle or possibly damaging PCM circuitry using an applied voltage to the wire and searching with a sensor?

 

Personally I would just use a test light. I would just nick the wire there and test with the test light.If it is the tach pulse there will be plenty of voltage to light it and flash. I cant see where it could damage the PCM since the circuit supposedly goes nowhere anyway. I know the F350 pin 19 will flash the test lamp. I suppose you could just ground the multimeter negative cable and switch to 5V DC if you fear a problem. Does your vehicle have a tach? If not that is probably why it says ends in harness. It just goes nowhere due to lack of an actual tach. Ive installed quite a few Ford remote starts but never on the van with a PSD unfortunately, only on F series PSD and the new 6.0. The 6.0 F series has a tach lead inside the cab on the driver side just above the park brake lever in a bundle of wires made for optional access, like trailer lighting and like.

 

Thx for your help Homer. I'm just about ready to install my Prestige APS-996C alarm system with the remote start. I've pretty much gotten all the wiring colors and locations written down. The tach signal was a problem that I hope you've solved for me. I wonder if you'd mind me bug'n ya for other questions should they arise since this is my first real alarm install. I do seem to have some conflicts with the basic ignition wiring connections...
from studying the ignition switch wiring-diagrams in the ford manual I have come to a conclusion that the connection charts I've obtained from Circuit city (directwire and WireMagic) and from Audiovox appear to be using wires for Accessory and Ignition 2 which look like should be reversed. These call for Acc to use a Gy/Ye wire which according to the diagram is switch pos 2&3 or Run and Start and which show as Hot in Run in the Central Junction Box. And the charts call for Ign 2 connection to a Bk/Lg wire which in the manual shows coming from switch pos 1&2 or Acc and Run and are Hot in Run or Acc. This seems to be incorrect but I haven't put a meter in the truck yet to test them.
I thought rather than stripping wires and soldering in my alarm harness wires into the ignition bundle I would try to pull the CJB and try to run a connector with a pigtails from the various busses or fuse points. What would you suggest?

 

I would leave the CJB alone. They are prone enough to high voltage surges and Ive seen a couple go up in smoke from improper wiring. On all the dealer installed remote starts all the power feeds are tapped in directly behind the ignition switch. Ill try to find one of my old remote start wiring charts to help you with as a guide, but they are all up at work presently. I dont solder any connections because there are approximately 40 connections on the factory dealer installed model and it would risk too many opportunities to burn upholstery and trim. I cut down a section of insulation on the target wire, pick a hole thru the middle of the bundle of wires in the lead, twist the end of the tapping wire with about 1.5 - 2 inches of bared wire at the end. Run the tapping wire through the hole created with the pic in the target wire and twist tightly around the bared section on the target wire and tape over tightly with good quality electrical tape 1/2- 1 inch before, thru and after the tap in. This is the recommended procedure straight from Ford Security.

 

Great Homer! that would be very kind of you.

I take it that getting access to the switch is relatively easy? any special tools required?

I'm curious... I asked the dealership about purchasing the components needed for installing power windows and locks and they made a great effort to discourage that saying the factory components would be too costly to do. They said that the main wiring harness in the truck would need to be replaced costing $3k alone. I really wanted the factory look even though the Spal switches are illuminated and I suppose the switch pods can be dyed to match the truck and I'd need relays to reverse the polarity if I went with factory switches so I am told.
What's it cost to put factory remote start into a truck? I assume this is part of a factory alarm system?

 

If you dont have power windows and locks it would be a waste to install remote security really. Our Remote Start system with security runs about 600.00 or about 475.00 for remote start only. You can put in aftermarket power windows and locks but I havent a clue to the cost. And no the wiring loom does not have these already included on base model vans. I installed power door locks myself on a van with no factory locks by installing pigtail wiring for the actuators and running my own wiring thru the van and wiring in dual relays and a factory switch. I used factory acutators as there is a way to mount them in the door. It cost that guy a small fortune though. If he werent a business owner using it for a jewelry business I doubt he would have forked out the funds for such a project on a personal vehicle. Im sure he wrote it all off on his taxes.