I'm curious how you would get access to the PCM wires or pins to tie in to get the tach signal. Is the PCM accessable from the interior firewall ( a back side) or does the connector just unbolt from the front with all the connections on the engine side? looks like I'd need to move a few things out of the way to get to the front of it.. these E series vans are a pain in da butt to work on

 

LOL you dont have to tell me how hard it is to access anything on a van... I hate to even look under the hood. Honestly havent worked on the PCM on one to tell you. Never had a request for remote start on a diesel. On the Gas model vans Ive installed remote start I can tap an injector lead for tach sense or off the coil. On the PSD trucks I have to move a lot of crap to get to the outside connector and tap in from under the hood. It has the connector exposed and the PCM is inside mounted up to the firewall. And as I said before the 6.0 versions are aceesable from auxillary wiring provided inside the vehicle.

 

Yea, I've ordered a Deluxe Spal power window kit and a 4 door power lock kit...it should be here this week. I decided on the Spal kit because it uses the OEM mechanical guts of a crank system so alot easier and reliable and supposedly smoother and quieter than most kits...it also has a manual crank handle for emergency window operation if needed. I picked up the Spal window kit for $149 and it was bundled with a 3 switch kit with matching pods that looked ok. The lock kit was like $79 for a 4 door kit. As I'd said, I'd really prefer the factory look and priced the bezels and switches from Ford (found a cheaper price online somewhere) but I'd need the relays also to reverse the control polarities. What's it take for driver and front passenger side window..2 or 4 relays? I'll have a switch for window and locks on passenger side too...
I have a diagram here for wiring relays for negative switched control so I could set it up. Where would you suggest putting the relays if I decided to go the factory switch route? keep them in the door close to the switches?

Does your factory alarm with remote start system at $600 include the installation??

 

You got a good price on all that stuff. One of each would have cost you that much from Ford. Hopefully the kits will have all the information you need to wire them up. I would keep relays inside the vehicle. Too much water contamination risk out in the door itself. Ive never wired in relays for windows. I suggest looking at a schematic for an older Ford which uses conventional relay systems rather than Gem control of the modern vehicles. I think you will have few problems, but it will be time intensive to do a neat lasting job. Ive seen a few vehicles with the type aftermarket windows you speak of and they seem to work fine. I dont think you will need to go with the factory switches.

 

thx again for your help Homer, you've been a godsend. looking forward to any charts or diagrams you can offer

 

 

Thx for that Homer.
I did some pokin around to locate wires...
On my Van, 2002 E350 PSD "stripped chassis" (cargo van with no power locks, windows extras etc..) pin 19 at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) like you said, appears to be a "signal" wire and it ends in the harness as a dead wire along with 2 other wires, all three labeled and just hanging from the harness just to the left and above the PCM. The Wh/Pk wire from pin #19 at the PCM is labeled "CTO". At this point I don't know what CTO stands for but, one of the wiring connection charts downloaded from Directwire (directechs.com) for remote start says the tach signal is a Wh/Pk wire and located as "CTO test connector". Putting all the pieces together it looks like a pretty good bet (as you said) that that pin/wire is the tach signal.
The other 2 wires are labeled "4 X 4" and "A/C"
Now I put a tester to this wire, a probe with a bulb in it and went from ground to the wire but the light did not come on.. no flicker or anything. I checked it to the pos terminal of the battery and it came on.. good probe.
Should that wire give me a flickering or lit light? what settings would I use on a meter to test for a tach signal? Hz? duty cycle?

 

Try your multimeter and set it for a lower voltage peak I guess. Maybe the signal is closer to a vref voltage of 5 volts.

 

Meter says 12.17 volts, but the bulb won't lite up.. odd.. unless it's not enough amperage?

 

Could be, my test light uses a very small bulb. Is it a pulsing voltage you are reading?

 

Homer, does your references say where to tie in for a wait to start signal for diesel glow plugs? and does the factory alarm have a starter disable feature? if so what do they do to disable it?

 

You will see in the chart a wire labeled starter interupt. That wire is cut in two and bypasses thru the alarm module. If theft is detected the module will prevent power from passing thru. The remote module should have a program setting to delay start up for diesels. So it would turn on ignition and wait wpproximately 15 seconds before cranking.

 

I didn't get the portion of the chart with that info (starter interupt).
My remote does allow a programing option for waiting before cranking. The installation instructions also give the option to tie into the glow plug circuitry which would override the remote timer option. The charts I have say to tie into the glow plug light in the back of the instrument panel but that seems like alot of work to get to...I wondered if Ford had any instructions for hooking into the glow plug circuit.

 

No, the start delay is enough. The chart has the Start(crank) wire listed which is starter interupt.

 

CTO = Clean Tach Output
It is there for hooking up a tach....or a remote starter