Well, the planets have aligned to encourage me to buildup my 390 now rather than later. The small leak in my radiator is now a big leak, my valve covers started leaking last month, and I have stumbled across a F427 intake for $200.

Here is the plan:
Edelbrock F427 aluminum intake manifold
Holley Quick Rebuild kit for my 4160 600 CFM carb
Edelbrock timing chain
Crane Cams 901 cam and lifter kit
Flow Kooler water pump
Thermostat (180 degree)
FelPro valve cover gasket set
FelPro oil pan gasket set
FelPro Printoseal intake manifold gasket set
FelPro RACE gasket set
ARP black oxide chromemoly bolt set
a torque wrench
brake cleaner
and some Red RTV

I plan to do the work myself, but other than standard oil change and tune up stuff my only previous attempts at engine work include successfully rebuilding two carbs and replacing a two barrel intake with a 4 barrel. Basically I am a novice, but I feel inspired by what I read on this board every day and I want to attempt this by myself (actually I may fall back on my wife's cousin who is a Ford mechanic for reassembly help).

Anyway, my questions are:

Are there items I should consider adding or deleting from my list above?

Should I get an Edlebrock or a Cloyes timing chain?

Should I get the Flow Kooler or Edelbrock water pump?

I assume I need an oil pan gasket but is this because I need to pull the pan or because removing the timing cover will destroy the front part of the existing gasket (I am guessing this question will make some of you cringe and say "this rookie is gonna destroy that poor old 390")?

Anyway thanks for the help.

 

With your list of parts, you shouldn't need to drop the pan, but where the timing cover sits on the pan, the gasket usually is stuck to the timing cover, and you'll ruin the gasket removing the cover.

If you're careful with a putty knife or razor blade, you should be OK - use Red RTV and it should be fine. But clean all the oil off of the gasket, even underneath where it sits on the pan, if you don't, it'll leak...

One note with RTV: Always allow the stuff to "skin" before assembly. That's the only way it'll work good. But when it works, it's great. Just don't use too much or you'll be laughed at

Good luck, I hope the motor doesn't have too many miles on it, otherwise, you'll be doing the rings soon

Be careful with that intake, didn't the 427 have a different intake port height?

 

Looks good. I'm running the Edelbrock water pump and their timing set. I think these are quality pieces.

The 901 isn't too big, but it's not stock. Make sure your valve-train is in good shape. That is if you're running the stock stuff.

I think the RACE gasket set will have everything needed, including the pan gasket. They may not be the upgraded rubber parts. If you have the extra money, go fo those Fel-Pro rubber gaskets for the pan and valve-covers, as well as the #1247 intake manifold hasket.

otherwise, take your time and check here often with questions and updates. these guys are a great resource.

 

There is actually a better intake gasket out there Greg. Its the napa brand. I have always used the 1247 and it does tear itself apart. I have never had a major problem with it but others have started sucking oil quite heavily. I am going to try and find the gasket they were referring too so I can use it next time.

 

The gasket comes apart when removing manifold, yes. I don't see how that's avoidable if you use gasket sealer around the water ports as reccomended.

Are you saying people have had failures wit ha properly installed #1247?

 

Yes, I don't use any sealer except around the water ports. People have posted pictures of the 1247 after you remove it. What happens is the gasket separates around the blue lines and ends up creating a hole for oil to be sucked in.

 

well crap ratsmoker i just ordered that gasket for my rebuild and upgrades on my 360 hopefully i wont encounter any problems with it.... now 76f150 i have been looking at various timing chains myself and if i could afford it i would go with a timing gear myself but in the chain department i have read up on both the cloyes and edelbrock and from what i understand they are both excellent but the edelbrock is made of a special steel to were its not supposed to stretch so thats the one iam going with for the build up on my old 360...just some input for ya

 

Anyone going to bite on whether or not the 427 manifold will fit a 390?

Or if it's a good idea? Split vs. open plenum? Runner size? Port location and size?

 

Chomp!


There's your bite! I assumed that the F427 was a single plane, with good sized runners to be used on a 427. But, assumptions usually get me in trouble.

My biggest concern, is it worth $200? You can get a new Edelbrock RPM for about $280.

 

The F427 is not superior to the RPM. I would pay the extra $80 for something that hasn't been torqued on 50 times. I believe the 427 MR intakes will work on a 390. The LR and HR intakes will not. I am not the best parts historian though.

 

Typical. I ask a question and the answers lead me to more questions.

I think I am OK with the advice on the gaskets and the timing chain, except Ratsmoker's comment about the Napa intake gasket. Sean, are you saying the Napa gasket is the best one to use for the intake? Better than the Felpro Printoseal?

Also, why will I need to replace the rings soon after doing this upgrade/repair (see Krewat's comment)? The motor has roughly 60K miles on it since the last rebuild, so maybe I don't need to worry.

Also, the comments about the F427 are confusing. I thought several folks on here (DF and/or Freightrain) said the F427 was better than the RPM. I think someone said they thought FEs liked the tapered runners on the F427 (more low end torque?). Also, I assumed the F427 would fit (port match) the 390 since a while back some guy with a 360 was encouraged to use a F427 on his engine. Lastly, since DSC and Perogie (a Mustang shop in Ohio) list used F427s at $295-360, I thought $200 was a decent price. Maybe I should change my user name to "confused chump". I can still back out on the deal for the F427 and get an RPM, so I may do that.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Maybe I should just see if Scouder wants to trade engines.

 

I have to agree with Ratsmoker. Unless you know the history of the part, you could be the proud owner of a $200 door stop. Metal fatigue aside, you still have to determine if it's been machined or ported. Too much mystery for me.

 

76 F150, I'm one of the guys who prefers the F427 to RPM. I wish Edel still made them. The manifold I think is the very best dual plane you can get is the blue thunder. The F427 is very similar, big fat tapered runners. The RPM uses what edel calls a constant volume or constant velocity runner. If you found an F427 for 200$, you got a really good deal, IMO. Now, whether it is in good shape or not is something only you can deciede, we can't see it through the computer. Here are a few things you can check. What do the runners look like where the intake will meet the head ? Do they look like they were cast the way they are, or have they been ground larger ? They ought to be about 2 inches high. Hold the manifold up in front of you and look down the sides, where it is going to bolt up to the head- does everything look straight ? The very best way would be to set it on a block and heads and see if it fits okay. If it does not fit, we'll try and help you figure out why, and how to make it work. Several factors affect intake fitment, has the block been milled ? The heads ? the side of the heads ? The top of the valley on the block ? FWIW, I have used the 1247 gasket without trouble. I put white grease ( lubriplate ? ) on the manifold and heads and leave the sealers in the tool box, and use a bead of RTV instead of the cork end seals. So far, it has been okay. Don't know about what the gasket will look like when disassembled. It hasn't leaked, so I haven't messed with it. DF

 

Thanks for the followup DF. The seller claims the F427 is in good shape and not milled or ported. He seems relieable and said I can check it out in person before I buy it (he lives nearby but I found out about the item on the internet and we have only spoken via email). I guess if it turns out to be a mistake I can still buy the RPM and I will only be out the labor since I can sell the F427 on Ebay for $250+. I have seen several go for this price.

I will probably go with the FelPro gaskets since I am putting in an order with Summit and they have them (call me lazy, but I am a sucker for mailorder).

 

Amen brother :-)

I think I saw an F427 on Ebay today with a starting price of $600...yikes. There were no bids. But, maybe you should snag that one!