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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 11:01 PM
  #1  
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89bronc
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From: Elroy,Wi.
Please Help Broke Down

Well my bronc is down! Its really wierd. runs fine at idle, will idle all day,but as soon as I take her for a drive and it warms up to operating temps,she stutters and dies and will not start till it cools down for about an hour.It will crank and crank but no start,seems to have spark, and fuel-it does have good fuel pressure at the rail but will not start till it sits for an hour,almost like it is vapor locked. Anyone have any ideas????
 
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 11:07 PM
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could be a clogged fuel filter
 
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 11:20 PM
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From: Elroy,Wi.
thats a start!!! at least I can try some thing,I am lost here
 
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:02 AM
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fcarruth
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From: Medina, Tn.
I agree with the fuel filter but try this also. When it is running good, raise the hood and find the EEC Power Relay and Fuel Pump Relay. They will be on the driver side fender well. With the vehicle running, start wiggling the wires that go from those 2 relays and see if you can get it to stutter on you. Also, get under it with it off and in park and fin your fuel pump on the driver side rail directly under your driver seat. Pull on the - and + wires and see if they are tight. If nothing else, pull them off and kind of crimp them with pliers so that they will grip better. I had the exact problems as you are now having but it took me almost 2 years to finally get it repaired. When the fuel pump gets hot, the large connector would loosen up on me. Once I crimped it, no more problems. Well, no more until the pump failed a few monthes ago.

Good luck and let us know what fixes it.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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gotta thank fcarruth for that !I wouldnt have thought of that.I wrote it down in case that happens to me!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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From: Elroy,Wi.
I will check on your ideas and let you know,thanks,this is driving met nuts!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 10:44 PM
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From: Florida
That is very possible those wire on the fuel pump on the rail and who would suspect it, try it and let us know how u fix it...

Could also be a "Short" grounded out wire somwhere...
 
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:46 PM
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From: Marysville Wa
sorry for not being able to get more info for ya, but whenever weird stuff like this happens, it seems like its the TFI, at least in my case it was. check your haynes manual for durections on how to test it
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 08:41 PM
  #9  
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Copper93
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From: Charlotte, NC
I had a similar problem before. It would heat up then die when it cooled down it would run just fine. It turned out to be the ignition module. It was about 30 bucks at auto zone to replace it. It just plugs in under the distributor. There is a way to check it in the haynes manual but I just swapped my out. I figured it would go back evenually if that wasn't the cause of my problem this time.
 
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Old May 6, 2004 | 08:46 PM
  #10  
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Glenn_May
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From: Shrewsbury, MA
Ignition Module

I agree with the ignition module. I had an 85 that did that to me. Had to keep pushing it off the side of the road and letting it cool down. Total PITA, went through 2 modules before the 3rd one actually worked...


Hope it helps..

G
 
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Old May 7, 2004 | 04:57 AM
  #11  
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quantalimo
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From: Florida
let us know how u make out......


Ignition and/or fuel are usually first things to check on a non starting engine..


hope you get it figured out
 
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Old May 8, 2004 | 11:31 PM
  #12  
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quantalimo
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From: Florida
Try taking ignition module off then; take it to auto zone they can test it ...


also you need a special tool to get it off they sell at auto zone..take my word for that...'(its called a ford ignition module tool)

also before you buy the tool make sure you can turn dizzy, sometimes these old ford dist are just plain stuck...you need an impact hammer to break them loose just to turn them..(So, think What kind of tools do you have or if you have any friends with these tools)

to get my module off I had to turn dist so that dizzy faces front of vehicle...

in some cases you may have to take dizzy off to replace it total PITA

make sure you put di-eletric grease on the back side (metal part of module)(This grease helps keep module cool according to the hayes shop manual)
I suggest you use pro-grade only...dont use the garbage you get with the module..

pro grade is clear like a gel

the garbage is white

also reset your timing with spout connector off......for some reason if u stall out when your timing is retarded by computer it can cause it not to start....in other words timing may be out of range.....thats wht it wont start..

also try starting it with spout connector disconnected(when your having problems) when it wont start to see if thats a possibility.....

if you dont know what or where the spout connector is ;......................follow second wire down from topof the ignition module harness ....this will lead you to a plug or connector this is the spout connector ....k


also maybe timing chain can be jumping a tooth here or there .....it may be loose.......doubt the gear going bad on an old ford...

check this stuff before you spend alot of money on parts.....

 
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Old May 8, 2004 | 11:47 PM
  #13  
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crussel4
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From: San Diego
Wow, sounds like my problem too except...

Wow, sounds like my problem too except...
I hear a high pitched whine a few minutes befoe, then the dying and loss of power then have to let it cool down.
Then it's fine again.
 
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Old May 9, 2004 | 12:02 AM
  #14  
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quantalimo
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From: Florida
Talking

Well if it wines i suggest you get some cheese as well....lol

Cheese and wine while your waiting for her to cool off ...

lil Humor
 
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Old May 9, 2004 | 12:03 AM
  #15  
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skelator
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From: West Texas
i have a similar prob with my 84, i dont think it has any type of computer control anything, its carbed and has an edelbrock intake, new plugs and wires, i also replaced the ignition module,the tach drops off, spikes back up, jumps back and forth, the engine surges and dies, then wont start for 15 min
 
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