In your case you may have a bad brain box or a short and maybe .....or a bad sending unit.......like oil this or that..

on those trucks the sending units go through the brain box and if its shorting at a certain range you have the ghost in the machine.........

start up engine feel wires comming off sending units if they are getting hot as in very hot you have a short or shorting out sending unit...


I had an 80 302 and my oil sending unit was shorting out melted wire causing a short and truck wont not to start...poping fuse out eventually

but more then likely it sounds like a short.....check wiring harness...all around the brain box .....the metal box on the drivers side front fender in engine compartment...and if you can find that


Look undernearth dash by gas pedal ....straight up there may be a computer
(youll see a harness not a comp..its connecte to it...

84 im not sure ........but you replaced ignition control mod so you cant have a brain box strange...i think 86 on up have the comps at least on EFI

either way look for a shorting out sensor or sending unit as well as a plain old short........
usually is the ghost in the machine....

 

Getting hot and won't start-
I faced that problem for years.
The bat will turn and turn but never fire. I finally found the short after the Bronc sat since 2001.
Start at the fuse panel and beware what "appears" to be stock factory work.
Good Luck!

 

yes sir ,




and if your rich (you wouldnt be here) and have a short just replace whole wiring harness......bout 4 bills(do it yourself)

and if u poor spend 100 (4 bucks an hour) to 1000 (.40cents an hour)man hours searching for the short .....and seventy cents for wire..

its like an internship........it dont pay either way....

Now you can always push it off a bridge if you have full coverage...lol

this thread is jumpin 2 nite party zone yeahhhhhhh

yes dont forget party zone may have an awnser.....2am sat evening EST

yeeeeeeee hawwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

 

hear ya there i pulled fuse block off and rewired alot of things because previous owner decides anyone drunk can install a car stereo..melted corner of fuse box...ouchie....I dont think its wired to the way it runs but some what possible....

i re-wired 6 circuits with marine supplies......the boat stuff is very easy to solder and at least you know where your at in the end..it can ge wet and kick azzzzzzzz...good 4 off road....marine stuff..

but i only paid 600 bucks for my bronco which is in good shape
now runs great after a grand in parts and sellin my soul to learn how to fix it (thats college level this efi stuff)...dont forget a few hundred man hours...just added..... glass packed duel exaust chrome tipped ......


But i can at least put it in 4 wheel low and drive through hell and make it back.....and thats the way I want it......down here in the swamps its an awesome vehicle..........very amazing off road .....yezzzzz
azzzzzzzzzzzzsummmmmmme

Quote "where your at is where you are"

 

Easy fix? Try this one... when engine gets hot your fuel pump relief lifts and you lose fuel pressure, idle uses less fuel so it's not happening.
Three things makes your vehicle run, air spark fuel. If air filter is clean and you got spark then fuel makes sense to me.

It's the fuel pump / regulator / filter or a combination.

I would try changing the fuel pump, regulator, and fuel filter and hopefully problem is history.

Worst case scenario could be the in tank low pressure pump, which isn't supplying fuel to high pressure pump.

In my case I had a high pitched whine I could hear about a half a minute before I lost power, which was the internal relief in the fuel pump.

 

Actually the clear dielectric grease is a VERY POOR thermal joint compound.

The white compound that comes with the unit is probably OK. Much better than clear dielectric grease anyway.

I use an actual professional grade of heat sink compound that is white. I buy it in a small toothpaste sized tube from an industrial electronics supply store.

The biggest problem people have is not getting the mating surfaces absolutely clean and free of any nicks, burrs, or other irregularities. Proper thermal transfer depends upon a very small gap between the surfaces and a very thin continuous layer of heatsink compound.

 

It worked for me and thats what I have on hand to use....

Its also some high dollar stuff i paid $15 bucks for a small can or Pro grade.....

There was some of the white on the back of the one i took off; that was causing me problems....

Also look at the picture closely in the hayes maual they have CLEAR di-eletric grease on the back of the igniton module.....

Hayes manual 36058 ford pick ups and bronco 80-96

chapter 5-14 picture fig 8.49 (also quotes dont use any other type of grease)being dieletric; meaning you can use both....



Therefore condemed by logic on my own part........Having to push my bronco off the florida interstate where our speed limit is 75mph...which means people usually go 90 .....and no one ever stops to help you except the police...

And of course the white grease comes with a wells module when you buy it..
However as they say "beware of the Greek Man bearing Gifts...."


Especially when there is no refunds on Eletrical parts after installed.....


And that what I believe to be the truth......


After all the stuff you use I am sure is much better then the stuff they give you with the module...However when I never had to pay for a new module I just took it off and regreased the back(After I tested it)........With what I have in my tool box.....and it worked ....So Im proud to say I fixed something without having to run to the auto parts store to buy a new part that wasnt even the problem to begin with.....And I say its worth a shot to anyone having the similar problem.....before they go out and spend money bucks on parts they dont need...

 

I don't have much faith in the Haynes manual when it comes to heatsink compound.

I have been working in electronics packaging, heat transfer, and electronic design, etc in countless automotive, aerospace, and industrial applications for over 25 years. I will rely on that experience.

 

The hayes manual may be wrong......That Ill believe....


However its good in a pinch..like on the interstate with a tool box it can be helpfull to keep on board...

But all information has to come from somewhere now I know more..

In the case with mine it seemed that it wasnt coated properly or just plain old....


Also what i noted it seems they dont give enough grease with the module .....

I originally bought the clear di-grease to resolve other eletrical problems....

It works good down here in florida the contacts corrode quickly when you live near saltwater in sub tropical climate...It works well in all the conectors,plugs and relays...keeps out water while 4 wheeling.. ect


Either way im through this problem on my truck and many more to look forward to in the future... lol

What about the guy were trying to help he hasnt even came back with any results....

 

A lot of users do that, pop in with a question that has probably been covered in a hundred threads, then never come back with the solution etc...

I am a dielectric greasing fool on all automotive electrical connections. I also use it on CATV connections etc. I use it on any AC electrical connections in damp or outside areas. If I have to use a crimp connector I will strip the wire and dip the end in dielectric grease b4 I crimp it. They make special joint compounds for aluminum wire.

The secret to any thermal transfer joint is surface prep, kind of like welding, painting, soldering, etc. The thinner the joint the better it performs. It does not take much grease when the surfaces are prepared properly. The pigment that is in the white grease is what gives a long lasting thermal joint. The silicone oil is just a carrier and migrates away from the joint when heated, unfortunately just like the silicone dielectric grease.

 

Wicked cool.....<!I know you know your S&%$%^T>

so read on......


I know quite a bit about eletronics myself....but "imagine" this ive been thinking

TV tuner cleaner could fix a TPS out of whack , just wierd stuff no on could ever phathom....

Ive been using this stuff on EFI componets with results......

or the pot cleaner soultion they use on eletric guitar pots......


So what you think about that and this ......


I want to get higher perfomance out of my 302 efi and was thinking about buying a Jet Power tuning Chip (ford module) and/or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...


My exsaust is unrestricted but has glass packed mufflers...


also check this one out just an idea; when going wide open have a .5 v voltage boost at the TPS circuit.....on top of being wide open....could i dammage my comp ...i think not as long as i dont exceed 5v....


Just to share my thoughts that are a little off the wall but i think they would work...the tv tuner cleaner and like a watch battery throttle booster...This crap may work ....Penny for your thoughts.....


Also what shoud the fuel pressure be at the rail with key on engine off and what should it be with engine on....and why couldnt I add more pressure there.....


My mechanic friend tells me it should be 29lbs and up is standard.....


so what would be my maximum pressure at the rail

 

If it is overheating maybe the thermostat located next to the radiator hose which goes to the water pump is stuck. I went through a similar problem. Check the thermostat and also for radiator leaks. Check for engine oil level. Fuel mixture could be too lean. Otherwise a speck of dirt might have clogged the injector/carb jets, try to get a fuel system or injection cleaner and idle stepping on the throttle to get the dirt out.

 

"make sure you put di-eletric grease on the back side (metal part of module)(This grease helps keep module cool according to the hayes shop manual)
I suggest you use pro-grade only...dont use the garbage you get with the module.."

i have researched into this and it doesnt matter what grade clear or white grease you use, the distributor mounted ignition control module or icm is called a tfi system. which means thick film integrated, the grease is the film, so in order to work properly the icm must be insulated from heat by the film. so, as long as you put a very thick layer and make sure to cover the entire metal surface on the back of the icm you will be fine.

 

You have that backwards. You need a very thin continuous film. The grease is not an insulator, it is a heat conductor to help cool the TFI ignition module. The whole TFI module was a bad design, but then Ford will never admit to a bad design and they have had many...

The Haynes manual is at least corect in listing that it helps keep the module cool.

 

well, i guess i slipped on that one, but its still the same principle, and yes ford bent over on that design, they had a nice lawsuit going with that brain fart. the icm would over heat cause the engine to die.(not a prob if you are on a low traffic street, but if you are bumper to bumper on the interstate going 75....very bad things can and will happen to the back end of your ford.) very bad pile ups, several deaths and ford gets to recall another screwball idea.