Converting A/C to the new stuff
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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Converting A/C to the new stuff
Has anyone here ever converted from the r12 to the new r134a stuff? I have a buddy that works at an autorepair place that fixes A/C. He says that we can convert my system to the new stuff from r12 for almost nothing. My question is, is it really that easy. The ford dealership wanted 1800 
to convert it, and he is talking like 40-60$ to convert, then a little extra for the new r134a stuff. I have faith in his ability, but can you really just replace some seals, change the conectoers and replace the dryer and evacuate it and replace with new? Thank you in advance!
to convert it, and he is talking like 40-60$ to convert, then a little extra for the new r134a stuff. I have faith in his ability, but can you really just replace some seals, change the conectoers and replace the dryer and evacuate it and replace with new? Thank you in advance!
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
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Three years ago I had enough of of the heat and just added the new stuff right to the existing freon and its still very cold.I heard the new freon will eventually destroy the seals in the a/c components but I'm on my third summer and everything is still fine.Maybe I've just been lucky.( you use to be able to get the fittings to convert it at the parts store or Walmart) Im not sure about now.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Changing the dryer/accumulator, removing as much oil as possible, replacing all the o-rings, adding the proper oil, changing the fittings over, evacuating and recharging the system with 85-90% of the original charge and you're done. The retro kits are relatively cheap, it's the labor that gets ya!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 354
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From: Memphis, TN USA
Try are replacement for the R12. R12 is colder than R134a.
http://www.duracoolusa.com/ or http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/
http://www.freeze-12.com/
http://www.redtekproducts.com/
If some of them requires you to have a license, you can get your license in no time by taking an honest system type exam and cost is around $20 at http://www.epatest.com/e_609cert.html
I got my 609 MVAC Technician Certification from them and I can buy R-12. Some R-12 alternative might require that 609 MVAC Technician Certification.
http://www.duracoolusa.com/ or http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/
http://www.freeze-12.com/
http://www.redtekproducts.com/
If some of them requires you to have a license, you can get your license in no time by taking an honest system type exam and cost is around $20 at http://www.epatest.com/e_609cert.html
I got my 609 MVAC Technician Certification from them and I can buy R-12. Some R-12 alternative might require that 609 MVAC Technician Certification.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 409
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Careful with these R-12 substitutes...according to their own MSDS charts
"FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD: Flammable air-vapour mixtures may form if allowed to leak to atmosphere. Accumulation of gas is an ignition hazard. Vapours are heavier than air and may travel to an ignition source. Flashback along vapour trail may occur."
Bad news if you find a leak the hard way!!!
"FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD: Flammable air-vapour mixtures may form if allowed to leak to atmosphere. Accumulation of gas is an ignition hazard. Vapours are heavier than air and may travel to an ignition source. Flashback along vapour trail may occur."
Bad news if you find a leak the hard way!!!
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2004
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The reason a lot of shops charge quite a bit for the conversion is because: 1.They are out to make a lot of money-2. Most people are uninformed about A/C and can tell customers anything they want. Shops will say that all hoses need replacement and hard parts flushed due to different barriers required for the difference in molecule size of the freons. This has been shown as unnecessary with a converted system because all hoses and o-rings have been impregnated with the mineral oil used with R12. If nothing is leaking in your system you can safely and efficiently convert from R12 to R134a if you evacuate the R12. As with any high pressure system you should replace all o-rings ($5) and the drier ($40) to extend the life of the system.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,420
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From: Langhorne, PA
I have read enuf posts about successfully converting to R134a the "quick and cheap way" to believe it is possible and economical. I think your AC tech should try and flush the system once, to purge the old oil out( the stuff is hard to get out), change all o-rings, and replace the orifice tube. Best case scenario..it works just fine and runs a long time. Worst case scenario...try again, which probably will result in a new accumulator, and compressor, but the evaporator, condensor, and hoses won't be hurt at all.
However, If the system is completely warm and hasn't worked in a while, all bets on the "quick fix" working are off.
Never ever ever go to a Ford dealer for this repair!!!! It ain't worth the money. There isn't anything wrong with Ford parts though.
However, If the system is completely warm and hasn't worked in a while, all bets on the "quick fix" working are off.
Never ever ever go to a Ford dealer for this repair!!!! It ain't worth the money. There isn't anything wrong with Ford parts though.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: west virginia
i just did my 90 f150 with a 5.8 the kit with all the o-rings and oil was about 20.00 and the 4 cans of r134 was about 5.00 a can the key to getting it cold is after you change the o-ring and seals you need to pull a vacume to pull in the proper amout of r134. oh don't forget about the oil it could be put right in the rec dryer
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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Pulling a vacuum on the system is not so you will be able to get the new refrigerant in. The purpose of pulling a vacuum is to remove air and moisture from the system after any part of it has been opened up and exposed to the regular atmosphere.
The air we breath has moisture in it. So anytime the system is opened up and the refrigerant is removed, what is it replaced with? The air we breath. Water does not condense under the same pressure & temperature as the refrigerant, therefore it has to be removed.
Water boils off into vapor when in a vacuum and can be sucked out by the vacuum pump as vapor. This the purpose of pulling a vacuum.
Oh, before I forget. Don't just put the oil in the drier (receiver, accumulator, whichever you prefer to call it). You need to put the oil directly into the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor will begin running without oil in it, which is very bad for it. The most important function of the oil is to lubricate the compressor. It about like draining the oil out of your engine, starting it with no oil and then adding the new oil while it is running. NOT A GOOD THING!
The air we breath has moisture in it. So anytime the system is opened up and the refrigerant is removed, what is it replaced with? The air we breath. Water does not condense under the same pressure & temperature as the refrigerant, therefore it has to be removed.
Water boils off into vapor when in a vacuum and can be sucked out by the vacuum pump as vapor. This the purpose of pulling a vacuum.
Oh, before I forget. Don't just put the oil in the drier (receiver, accumulator, whichever you prefer to call it). You need to put the oil directly into the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor will begin running without oil in it, which is very bad for it. The most important function of the oil is to lubricate the compressor. It about like draining the oil out of your engine, starting it with no oil and then adding the new oil while it is running. NOT A GOOD THING!
Last edited by jommer; May 19, 2004 at 12:46 AM.