Lightest Trucks
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Calgary
Lightest Trucks
I know it sounds like an oxymoron but who in here has the lightest truck? I'm slowly building mine into a sport truck, and have got it down under 3700lbs. Unfortunately all my weight is up front now after removing the rear bumper, gas tank, and tailgate. The fiberglass fenders helped a bit, but would really like to get a f/g hood. Any other tips? 
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Destin/Ft. Walton Beach,
I don't know how much money you have to spend. Install aluminum heads, aluminum intake, aluminum water pump and outlet, aluminum radiator. I guess that's all I can think of right now.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pittsburgh
-Replace the steel inner fenders with the plastic ones from a later model truck
-move the battery to the cab area, preferably under cab
-go with hood pins so you can gut the hole latch mechanism
-get rid of the front bumper and put on a plastic or aluminum splash pan
-if you're in a warm area the heater core and mechanism can go
-firewall/floorboard insulation: do you really want/need it?
-drop the bench seat and get some fiberglass buckets
-steel door inserts
-Glass. if you're serious get into lexan, but you can't replace the windshield with it and have it remain street legal
Those are BIG weight areas. Just start looking around, see what is there that you don't really need.
Remember: It's easier to find 100 places to shed one pound than one place to shed 100 lbs
Justin
-move the battery to the cab area, preferably under cab
-go with hood pins so you can gut the hole latch mechanism
-get rid of the front bumper and put on a plastic or aluminum splash pan
-if you're in a warm area the heater core and mechanism can go
-firewall/floorboard insulation: do you really want/need it?
-drop the bench seat and get some fiberglass buckets
-steel door inserts
-Glass. if you're serious get into lexan, but you can't replace the windshield with it and have it remain street legal
Those are BIG weight areas. Just start looking around, see what is there that you don't really need.
Remember: It's easier to find 100 places to shed one pound than one place to shed 100 lbs
Justin
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Joined: Jan 1997
Posts: 23,165
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From: Enjoying the real world.
The intake swap alone will shed 70lbs! Ditch the steel fan and put in a high powered plastic electric fan. Mini-starter. Aluminum drive-shaft. The only thing stopping you is how much you want to spend!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: charlotte, nc
I've heard that new replacement windshields are thinner and lighter than the originals. I don't know if we're talking pounds or ounces. If yours is fogged up or scratched it would be a good excuse to replace it - assuming it is lighter.
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Posting Guru
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From: East Flat Rock NC
All round tube chassis will lose a lot of weight! Check out my gallery I have a
69 Mustang all round tube its suppose to weigh 1650 with a big block I have
a small block in it . The down side to that is a chassis shop wants about
( 10,000 ) dollars to build you one, I got a real good deal on this one !!!!
I have thought many times of puting a Ford truck body on it !
69 Mustang all round tube its suppose to weigh 1650 with a big block I have
a small block in it . The down side to that is a chassis shop wants about
( 10,000 ) dollars to build you one, I got a real good deal on this one !!!!
I have thought many times of puting a Ford truck body on it !
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Apr 29, 2004 at 09:21 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Calgary
I have the alluminum intake, but the heads would be a nice but expensive touch. I still would like to move my battery to the back. But I'd need to build an enclosure for it, or get a tonneau. Racing seats would be another good saver. Most are lightweight. I found out a manufacturer that molds full front clip, cab, and box all in fiberglass. Can't remember what site it was. I have the electric fan also which made a pretty big difference. My windshield is still mint. Ya, the tube frames a little to far.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: East TN.
hey, just wondering about the plastic inner fenders mentioned above. ive got some rust in both my steel ones, and wonder what years had plastic and is it pretty mush a straight swap? or is it easier to just get the ones ive got patched? thanks for any help.
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Joined: May 2002
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Originally Posted by *************
Has anybody seen that site that molds full bodys for most 60s/70s cars/trucks? Pro-Street/StateTK, you might be interested in that.
http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Trucks/67-Ford.htm
And here's your late-model truck tube-frame to go NASCAR racing...
http://www.childressracecars.com/truck_chassis.html
When I find a place that had U-weld-it kits, I'll forward that, too.
Last edited by mlf72f250; May 2, 2004 at 09:51 AM.
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
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Here's your u-weld-it kit:
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
Click on chassis.
They say "$964 and up" for a truck kit.
You know, having a truck of our vintage done with a 60s/70s retro stock car design could be pretty sweet.
Happy Welding...
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
Click on chassis.
They say "$964 and up" for a truck kit.
You know, having a truck of our vintage done with a 60s/70s retro stock car design could be pretty sweet.
Happy Welding...
Last edited by mlf72f250; May 2, 2004 at 10:10 AM.